I put an end to my Charcoal Canister problems for good! (6 Viewers)

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Just about to ask the Smog question myself. If I drill out the BBs... will I fail smog???

No, you will notice no changes from stock except a 37% increase in fuel mileage.
 
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I got a spare laying around I can send you. Did you toss the one from your parts truck too? Don't you know you are never supposed to throw anything Land Cruiser related away?!?!

I'm just learning all kinds of lessons this month! I would welcome it. Thanks!
 
My spare canister is from a 92 3FE. It doesn't have the fancy rubber cap on it and needs a paint touch up. But should work fine. The ports point up instead of horizontal. Also shouldn't be a problem.

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In the past I rebuilt my canister but recently the problem popped back up and once I experience a problem 3 times I change directions and look for a final fix.

The canister has 3 lines -
1 - comes straight from the tank with a one way valve at the canister < the problem
1 - goes to the VCV valve
1 - out the bottom and vent to the outside:eek:

After reviewing the FSM I see no reason for a check valve (the problem) so I ellimanated it.:grinpimp: After 1000 miles with 100° - 35° temp and 1000' - to 7500' altitude I see no codes, gas smell, or problems down the road. Im done with this problem for GOOD.

If you think this mod will add to global warming keep it to yourself:deadhorse:

NOTE: Pictures cheerfully stolen form internet and not mine :moon:

The process -

Grind the rim off the canister to grain inside access
Pop it open
Drill a ~1/4" hole on the tank side where you see the ball
Dump the ball out and make sure the passage is clear
Replace the active carbon inside
Reassemble the canister
Press the top in place and tack weld close
Paint the cut line to keep everything pretty
Never worry about your canister again.

If you dont have the skills PM me for help

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If the valve is removed from the CC tank then the canister essentially is open vent to the gas tank. The VCV then have a open vent to gas tank. Does the VCV have a open vent to atmosphere or does it rely on the gas tank/gas cap seal? Or does it even matter? I dont know for sure when the VCV opens. Is it basically closed or open during normal driving?

I am probably over thinking this. But if the VCV is open during normal driving and you remove the tank pipe check valve then the VCV will pull air through it. Maybe the gas cap seals it well enough that it cant pull enough to matter. Or maybe i am just confused about all this!
 
My spare canister is from a 92 3FE. It doesn't have the fancy rubber cap on it and needs a paint touch up. But should work fine. The ports point up instead of horizontal. Also shouldn't be a problem.

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Wait...that's not what your spare looks like. Not anymore....Thanks! :hillbilly:
 
I went out in the rain for this.

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Haha! Nope! It's a tribute to you. I didn't want to change a thing. I had to degrease myself after taking it out of the box. Then I called a hazmat team to dispose of the soiled cardboard.
 
Haha! Nope! It's a tribute to you. I didn't want to change a thing. I had to degrease myself after taking it out of the box. Then I called a hazmat team to dispose of the soiled cardboard.

You get what you pay for! :rofl:
 
Yup! And I appreciate it all the more for it.
 
It is possible that i am misreading the original post. But i think you are drilling the valve a the way to the left that you see. That might work fine. But if you look at it it is the one that only flow TO THE TANK. Kind of strange. It is not the one that sticks. There is actually a valve in the middle that is up the 4" long tube. It is the one that feed INTO to canister from the tank and sticks. It is covered by a small fabric filter that is a pain to remove. But it drilled out just fine. Basically the pipe from the tank splits with two valves. One you see to the left and one in the center tube. The one in the center tube is the one that sticks and so i drilled that one.

All that said, once one is drilled and there is no valve i dont think it matters which is drilled. But i just wanted to shed some light on how it functions from the factory.

but thanks for the idea of drilling it out.
 
3 months and thousand miles later Im 100% happy and glad I put an end to this problem. Although I was not a victim Im sure it has contributed to many of the split gas tank seen during the past summer.
 
It is possible that i am misreading the original post. But i think you are drilling the valve a the way to the left that you see. That might work fine. But if you look at it it is the one that only flow TO THE TANK. Kind of strange. It is not the one that sticks. There is actually a valve in the middle that is up the 4" long tube. It is the one that feed INTO to canister from the tank and sticks. It is covered by a small fabric filter that is a pain to remove. But it drilled out just fine. Basically the pipe from the tank splits with two valves. One you see to the left and one in the center tube. The one in the center tube is the one that sticks and so i drilled that one.

All that said, once one is drilled and there is no valve i dont think it matters which is drilled. But i just wanted to shed some light on how it functions from the factory.

but thanks for the idea of drilling it out.


I'm a little confused by the wording of this post, are you saying there is another valve located inside the grey colored tube (aluminum?) that resides inside the charcoal canister that you drilled out?
 
I'm a little confused by the wording of this post, are you saying there is another valve located inside the grey colored tube (aluminum?) that resides inside the charcoal canister that you drilled out?

Yes. There is a third valve inside the aluminum tube. Pull out the fabric filter and you can see it. Or just drill it with the little filter in place I guess.
 
I just found the below description about the EVAP test. It looks like the canister and check valve are not even part of the test in california. I remember the tec clamping a hose in that area, I just didn't remember where. Looks like I'm good to go for the mod.


The EVAP test ensures that there are no leaks in the hose between the Gas Tank and Charcoal Canister... it that simple. The technician must clamp the end of the hose leading to the canister and pressurize the gas tank with Nitrogen via the EVAP test tool. The EVAP test tool will then calculate the drop in pressure due to any leaks. Technically there should be very little drop in pressure once the gas tank is pressurized. Should there be a pressure loss the machine will fail the EVAP portion of the smog test.
 
I just found the below description about the EVAP test. It looks like the canister and check valve are not even part of the test in california. I remember the tec clamping a hose in that area, I just didn't remember where. Looks like I'm good to go for the mod.


The EVAP test ensures that there are no leaks in the hose between the Gas Tank and Charcoal Canister... it that simple. The technician must clamp the end of the hose leading to the canister and pressurize the gas tank with Nitrogen via the EVAP test tool. The EVAP test tool will then calculate the drop in pressure due to any leaks. Technically there should be very little drop in pressure once the gas tank is pressurized. Should there be a pressure loss the machine will fail the EVAP portion of the smog test.

With that said the drill mod will have no effect.
 

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