I need some help installing LED tail lights...

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I made my own from some rectangular tubing , pretty easy fab job .
Still get a lot of comments about how bright these lamps are - no doubt for anyone when I hit the binders on it ....
Sarge

Got any pieces of that tubing left?
 
tail light measurments

Hello lads,

3 3/4" x 10 3/4". They are nearly 1" thick. As promised:
View attachment 771738View attachment 771739

I’m confused which dimensions are right, yours are a little smaller than in Narva’s drawing: 9-33 VOLT MODEL 42 L.E.D REAR STOP/TAIL DIRECTION INDICATOR AND REVERSE LAMP
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Edit: seems like the mounting plate is a little bigger, works ok without it

Anyone tried with CCOT’s guards?
 
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As usual, I late to the party..... After reading this I was inspired to follow suit and join in on the LED upgrade. I found the lights and resistors out of Australia on eBay. They arrived in six days and it was obvious that US Customs had probed as the inside package was cut open. All was accounted for in the end.

I did get hosed a bit on the shipping cost on the resistors. They charged me $24 and where included in the same box as the lights. That shipping was $45 so a little disappointed. In total I'm around $230 total US.

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With the OEM lights removed I decided to fabricate a bolt in light box/guards. It began with 3/16" X 2" flat bar sheared then broke to 90º. It had to be done in two halves for obvious reasons, but they matched up nicely.

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Four to make two guards.

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Five photo limit so more to come.
 
Moving on. The bottom was made from 1/8" X 4" flat strap I also had on hand. It was a bit narrow so I had 1/16" gaps along the sides but not an issue for a MIG.

Ho9V%VqISXu1ekbd4PVMHA.jpg


With the OEM light removed two unused holes where used to mount the entire box/guard. I drilled the back plate to match the OEM holes and plug welded mounting studs. The light back plate requires a flat surface. The studs where burned in pretty hot and well below flush for maximum penetration. The entire base was then welded to seal the backside.

The inside shows the penetration bead from the gap. The light fit nicely though. The two holes mount the light back plate.

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Test fitting.

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The light mounts will be used in a future bumper build so bolting them in now will pay off later. The guard seam is invisible and apparatus to be one piece.

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Another view.

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Primed and painted flat black. I'll finish wiring up tomorrow as I have a 24 hour shift today.
 
Moving on. The bottom was made from 1/8" X 4" flat strap I also had on hand. It was a bit narrow so I had 1/16" gaps along the sides but not an issue for a MIG.

View attachment 1949483

With the OEM light removed two unused holes where used to mount the entire box/guard. I drilled the back plate to match the OEM holes and plug welded mounting studs. The light back plate requires a flat surface. The studs where burned in pretty hot and well below flush for maximum penetration. The entire base was then welded to seal the backside.

The inside shows the penetration bead from the gap. The light fit nicely though. The two holes mount the light back plate.

View attachment 1949484

Test fitting.

View attachment 1949485

The light mounts will be used in a future bumper build so bolting them in now will pay off later. The guard seam is invisible and apparatus to be one piece.

View attachment 1949486

Another view.

View attachment 1949487

Primed and painted flat black. I'll finish wiring up tomorrow as I have a 24 hour shift today.
Great fab job! Look forward to the bumper fab you come up with, and thanks for photo journaling your purchase/install. Great looking 40!
 
Wow, those turned out really nice Paco!
 
Great fab job! Look forward to the bumper fab you come up with, and thanks for photo journaling your purchase/install. Great looking 40!

Thanks, I been procrastinating on the rear bumper due to stock 2F. Been keeping an eye out for a nice Toyota diesel, but that baby Cummings R2.8 is looking more feasible.
 

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