I can't drive 55

What do you think the issue is?

  • Fuel Delivery

    Votes: 2 8.3%
  • Carburetor

    Votes: 11 45.8%
  • Vacuum Leak

    Votes: 1 4.2%
  • Transmission/Transfer Case

    Votes: 3 12.5%
  • Ignition Timing

    Votes: 2 8.3%
  • Clutch

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Other

    Votes: 5 20.8%

  • Total voters
    24
  • Poll closed .

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No stupid questions.

Added to the list for today's test drive.
Tested the 4L theory and it revs up very quickly and does NOT go fast.

I tried to record 0-48 mph through the gears. I failed miserably. I have a phone mount that I can use to get a better video tomorrow.
 
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Back to the PCV.
You can easily get a generic one at one of our stellar local crappy auto parts stores. Alternatively, you can soak your existing one in Mineral Spirits or even 91% rubbing alcohol to flush the gunk, you know, like you clean your bong.
 
Again correct me if I'm wrong but I believe all the PVC valve does on this set up is it acts as a one way check valve. You should be able to suck air out of the breather pipe but not blow back. If it leaks a bit I don't see how it would be that much of a concern, I think its mainly for back fire.
 
Again correct me if I'm wrong but I believe all the PVC valve does on this set up is it acts as a one way check valve. You should be able to suck air out of the breather pipe but not blow back. If it leaks a bit I don't see how it would be that much of a concern, I think its mainly for back fire.
Bob,
The PVC valve filters out Polyvinyl Chloride so all the white plastics stay in our household plumbing.

While the PCV vents all the positive pressure from our crankcases. So yes, when positive pressure builds up in the crankshaft housing, the PCV releases it but allows not a vacuum.

Hope this helps.
 
OK, I see it, my bad. Bye, bye, rochester, hello anything else, a monkey with a squirt bottle.
The fabulous @knuckle47 sent Matt a Weber 32/36 to give a go if it’s the fuel delivery. Should be great for testing that theory. Honestly, I still think it’s something in the gearing. He’s gotten marginal increases when we’ve done valves, throttle cable, etc… I’m still remembering his t-case not shifting into H2 when he first brought it over.

He’s got solid vac numbers, his engine sounds like a Singer now. Although, and he hasn’t really talked about this, his air cleaner connection to carb is super jankey. There is no way that connection is tight.
 
The fabulous @knuckle47 sent Matt a Weber 32/36 to give a go if it’s the fuel delivery. Should be great for testing that theory. Honestly, I still think it’s something in the gearing. He’s gotten marginal increases when we’ve done valves, throttle cable, etc… I’m still remembering his t-case not shifting into H2 when he first brought it over.

He’s got solid vac numbers, his engine sounds like a Singer now. Although, and he hasn’t really talked about this, his air cleaner connection to carb is super jankey. There is no way that connection is tight.
You should be able to run with no air cleaner and not notice any difference.
 
The fabulous @knuckle47 sent Matt a Weber 32/36 to give a go if it’s the fuel delivery. Should be great for testing that theory. Honestly, I still think it’s something in the gearing. He’s gotten marginal increases when we’ve done valves, throttle cable, etc… I’m still remembering his t-case not shifting into H2 when he first brought it over.

He’s got solid vac numbers, his engine sounds like a Singer now. Although, and he hasn’t really talked about this, his air cleaner connection to carb is super jankey. There is no way that connection is tight.
My money is still on that carb strangling the breath from that mighty forklift engine….. Idling well, throttle blips, etc are a different animal than under load. Especially in 1:1 4th gear and it’s not quite into peak power.
 
I’m of the same opinion that the carb is way too small. Don’t throw it away Matt, I’d like it for my lawnmower and yeah, it’s a push mower.
 
Tested the 4L theory and it revs up very quickly and does NOT go fast.

I tried to record 0-48 mph through the gears. I failed miserably. I have a phone mount that I can use to get a better video tomorrow.
If it's obviously different it's a good and quick second way other then stick position / observation to rule out that you're not in low range :)
 
If it's obviously different it's a good and quick second way other then stick position / observation to rule out that you're not in low range :)
Right, been all over that and have the photos to show the 3 shifter positions on the TC in an earlier post. What it feels like, is it's not getting all of 4th. So today is:
  • A little more timing
  • A little more vacuum leak checking
  • New fuel filters
  • Weber carb swap
 
Right, been all over that and have the photos to show the 3 shifter positions on the TC in an earlier post. What it feels like, is it's not getting all of 4th. So today is:
  • A little more timing
  • A little more vacuum leak checking
  • New fuel filters
  • Weber carb swap
Yes I saw all the pictures... But nothing beats feeling the difference to be sure what is low range and what is high....
 
Back to the PCV.
You can easily get a generic one at one of our stellar local crappy auto parts stores. Alternatively, you can soak your existing one in Mineral Spirits or even 91% rubbing alcohol to flush the gunk, you know, like you clean your bong.
:)
Full flush done and all reinstalled. I'll check it with suction today.
 
Usually the test is to shake them, if they rattle, you're good to go.
 
A vac leak could be anywhere, but, it should show on the spark plugs (too hot). We are looking for slight discoloration on the plug insulator. Reading spark plugs can indicate quite a bit about fuel delivery and other issues.
plugs.jpg
 

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