hzj73
- Thread starter mike phillips
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this was in Egypt , crossing the GSS , Great Sand Sea , and over the Gilf El Kebir plateau .
pls look on google earth for the dimension of the sand area .
from coast to the south boarder with Sudan ,
in August , just me and my wife ,
and a fully trusted Toyota .
bye Renago
pls look on google earth for the dimension of the sand area .
from coast to the south boarder with Sudan ,
in August , just me and my wife ,
and a fully trusted Toyota .
bye Renago
Did I earn your trust Brosky ?
Absolutely, FULLY admire and envy.
We should be here trying to help Mike , with his overheating issue !
instead of looking at my photos .
The essential is that motor HZ1 , is designed NOT to overheat , even in the most harsh condition of use .
an unloaded truck running on normal tar road , at 100 kmh , should do it for mouths or years continusly, without overheating .
If the radiator is ok ,
the pump is ok
the temp sensor is ok
Fan ?
radiator cap ?
the last area to look at ( maybe the first ) should be the motor , head , compression ?
the fact that you have pressure in the expansion bottle is weird to me .
that bottle should work ONLY when the radiator is so hot , it needs to expand .
just my 2 cents
bye Renago
instead of looking at my photos .
The essential is that motor HZ1 , is designed NOT to overheat , even in the most harsh condition of use .
an unloaded truck running on normal tar road , at 100 kmh , should do it for mouths or years continusly, without overheating .
If the radiator is ok ,
the pump is ok
the temp sensor is ok
Fan ?
radiator cap ?
the last area to look at ( maybe the first ) should be the motor , head , compression ?
the fact that you have pressure in the expansion bottle is weird to me .
that bottle should work ONLY when the radiator is so hot , it needs to expand .
just my 2 cents
bye Renago
Your right I was busy at work and took a quick look. Really was talking about Mike's new Reg.
Your pictures are epic though.
Your pictures are epic though.
- Thread starter
- #48
hey renago- now that's what im talking about! in my mind that's what a 70 series land cruiser should be able to do and was designed for! that's awesome. you sure wouldn't want to break down somewhere like that! be rough huh? thank you and brosky too for the input and pics. I got my radiator pressure washed cause they wanted $150-250 to rod it out. should have spent the money, now I will probably have to do it anyway, just to know it is ok.
I was hoping to bypass the water pump till the timing belt came due, hoping it was changed when the belt was last done. I did notice the fan clutch had a lot of black grease on the front of it when I pulled radiator and wondered about that. maybe its on the way out. its pretty stiff when the motor is cold but after you drive it awhile it spins pretty easy. don't think the grease should be on there though. I called cruiser outfitters and Bryce[ who was very helpful] asked for vin# and trim, which is ZX, and said there were 2 part #'s, think he said 16210-17010 was correct but he had 16210-17040 and he didn't want me to get the wrong one so he suggested I call Beno, which I did, but he's in south America till the 24th and I can call him when he gets back. my vin is hzj730001366. does anyone know if the one cruiser outfitters has [I think 16210-17040] will work? or maybe who has the #16210-17010? I don't know the difference between the two, maybe just a fitting that could be closed off or something? it was only $122 though. I could also get a new rad cap. my old one held pressure when it was tested though, if that means anything. and the sensor, doesn't it just tell you how hot it is? and the reason the reservoir blew up on me is the gasket hole wasn't lined up with the hole in the reservoir lid so it could not vent at all. the pressure couldn't get out. I have since lined the 2 up and you can blow through the vent tube now. like some have said, the fan clutch may be ok but if I do the radiator again, since seeing all the grease on the front of it, for only $122 I would feel better replacing it just to be safe. or, I could rod out the radiator and not replace fan and see if it worked. would just have to pull rad again to fix it if I had to. also, ya'lls 2 cents is worth a whole lot. thanks again guys for your time and advice.
I was hoping to bypass the water pump till the timing belt came due, hoping it was changed when the belt was last done. I did notice the fan clutch had a lot of black grease on the front of it when I pulled radiator and wondered about that. maybe its on the way out. its pretty stiff when the motor is cold but after you drive it awhile it spins pretty easy. don't think the grease should be on there though. I called cruiser outfitters and Bryce[ who was very helpful] asked for vin# and trim, which is ZX, and said there were 2 part #'s, think he said 16210-17010 was correct but he had 16210-17040 and he didn't want me to get the wrong one so he suggested I call Beno, which I did, but he's in south America till the 24th and I can call him when he gets back. my vin is hzj730001366. does anyone know if the one cruiser outfitters has [I think 16210-17040] will work? or maybe who has the #16210-17010? I don't know the difference between the two, maybe just a fitting that could be closed off or something? it was only $122 though. I could also get a new rad cap. my old one held pressure when it was tested though, if that means anything. and the sensor, doesn't it just tell you how hot it is? and the reason the reservoir blew up on me is the gasket hole wasn't lined up with the hole in the reservoir lid so it could not vent at all. the pressure couldn't get out. I have since lined the 2 up and you can blow through the vent tube now. like some have said, the fan clutch may be ok but if I do the radiator again, since seeing all the grease on the front of it, for only $122 I would feel better replacing it just to be safe. or, I could rod out the radiator and not replace fan and see if it worked. would just have to pull rad again to fix it if I had to. also, ya'lls 2 cents is worth a whole lot. thanks again guys for your time and advice.
The difference is how aggressive the fan clutch is (or what temperature it kicks in at). The 17010 is the so-called tropical spec model for increased cooling. I had some difficulty finding one for my HZJ77, so I bought a Hella crossover from a EU seller on eBay. I just installed it so I cannot comment on how well it works yet.
This is the one I bought 8MV 376 757-411 HELLA Clutch, radiator fan | eBay
- Thread starter
- #50
thanks elkaholic. that's good to know cause Oklahoma is kinda like the tropics.
I havent driven or seen one that will go faster than 140kph and Ive owned 3 all in good condition and driven a few new ones at work over the years. I have checked them with a GPS and the speedo over reads by about 1% with stock 16 inch tyres.
The 1HZ, for a naturally aspirated 4.2 6 cyl is a bit of a power house compared to others in that class, although there is not a lot a lot to compare them with. Mainly elderly truck and marine engines from the 60s.
It wasnt designed to go fast. It was designed to operate in the worlds harshest conditions where only field servicing is available. Its a rare jewel in a throw away world.
Ive always kept a car as back up. The suspension and steering can be bit tiresome in traffic everyday, but I like going on long road trips with them.
As for the over heating. All mine have stayed cool on the warmest days until you push it past 120kph or on long hills. The heat builds up and they cant shed it unless you easy off on the fuel. Hills are best done in lower gears and letting the engine rev higher to maintain speed.
- Thread starter
- #53
hey roscoe- that's exactly what I was hoping to hear. and it makes sense too. it doesn't seem to like going faster than around 65 but it does that easily with no strain. you kinda just described my vehicle. im glad to hear that. and when I let up on the gas it cooled off pretty quick. its like you said all along, if it starts easy and runs well, I probably have a good motor. I just have never driven one and tied up some money so it made me worry a little. but it does run good though. its just the way you described it. thanks a lot cause it eases my mind. 
Inside the fan clutch there is some silicone oil.
It has a very high viscosity , and has a reverse reaction to heat .
Low temperature , it is rotates with little force.
High temperature it becomes stiff .
If you see signs of grease under the hood , it means most probably you have lost some of it .
Therefore the clutch still works but not at 100%.
If you change the hole clutch assembly , is €€€
Only the oil cheap , but MUST by it from Toyota .
You will have the exact quantity and viscosity .
Rgs Renago
It has a very high viscosity , and has a reverse reaction to heat .
Low temperature , it is rotates with little force.
High temperature it becomes stiff .
If you see signs of grease under the hood , it means most probably you have lost some of it .
Therefore the clutch still works but not at 100%.
If you change the hole clutch assembly , is €€€
Only the oil cheap , but MUST by it from Toyota .
You will have the exact quantity and viscosity .
Rgs Renago
For the motor ,a cheap check , get a compression on each cilinder .
Will cost you maybe 20$ but will put your mind to rest .
By Renago
Will cost you maybe 20$ but will put your mind to rest .
By Renago
- Thread starter
- #57
hey renago. I have seen where you can put different grades of silicone oil in it. I will have to research it to see how to do it. do you have to remove fan clutch? I would think you would. and does it make it like a new one? if so, that would seem to be the way to go. maybe I could get the heavier oil for better protection for hotter climate. it got to 109 F this summer and gets hotter sometimes. I guess you just squeeze the new oil in there till you see all the old stuff come out and get the whole tube in there. maybe theres a plug you have to remove and then plug it back? also, I may try to find a diesel shop to do a compression test on it. I think I know someone. but kind of like roscoe said, it does start easy, with no smoke or misses so I can almost assume that it may be ok. but I may do it anyway. thanks for your help renago.
Do a search on replacing fan hub silicone some good posts with instructions.
replacing the silicon oil in the fan clutch ,means that you must remove the clutch , not difficult .
dismantle it , not difficult .
remove all old oil ,takes some time .
put in the new one and reassemble .
the oil will cost aprox 5-10 €
new clutch 100÷120 aprox .
bye Renago
dismantle it , not difficult .
remove all old oil ,takes some time .
put in the new one and reassemble .
the oil will cost aprox 5-10 €
new clutch 100÷120 aprox .
bye Renago
this should do the job
Fan clutch write up and question
Fan clutch write up and question