hey guys- I haven't posted in quite a while. I was trying to get better gas mileage a year or so ago and someone said "get a diesel" and that's what I did. I got an hzj73 from an importer in Orlando florida, garanin corp. I liked the guy and he seemed really honest and all but when I picked it up and drove it home to Oklahoma it drove really well but it got hot every once in a while, but I got it home without hurting it I think. but that's not the issue on this thread. the thing is, the odometer showed 145,000 km on it but when I looked on the timing cover it showed it got changed at 202,000 km. didn't notice that till I got home but I did ask him, for some reason, if he thought it hadn't turned over and actually had 245,000 km on it and he said no way. and he said the belt was changed about 40,000 km ago. which would make the odometer reading about 100,000 km shy of what it actually was. so I am hoping that the overheating issue is not just an issue with a worn out or bad motor. I have never driven a diesel but it seems to run strong and smooth with no weird noises or misses. it starts up instantly and I can feel a steady exhaust at the tailpipe whereas my fj40 would sputter a little like it had a miss in it. I really hope I am right and the motor is good. he gave me a lot of new, mostly trim parts and a new thermostat was included. so I just now installed it to see if it would help. a guy close to me, about 32 miles, joe kantana, said someone on here may could find out the actual miles if I posted the vin#. I saw a ticket where it was shipped on the uss Nagoya and the vin is hzj730001366. its a 1990 model. if anyone can find this out for me without a whole lot of trouble I would be grateful. or maybe someone has heard of this guy. he seemed really honest but the miles don't really add up. thanks in advance.
hzj73
- Thread starter mike phillips
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Hey mate either way it should still have heaps of life in it. Just one thing to consider is that some people write when the timing belt needs to be changed again rather than when it was changed. This way those kms would add up.
With your overheating definitely replace the thermostat. Then look to make sure that the fan/clutch is working correctly. I would the do a coolant system flush and if it still reads hot, replace the temprature sender. I really would be careful not to overheat the 1hz, presuming thats the motor you have?
With your overheating definitely replace the thermostat. Then look to make sure that the fan/clutch is working correctly. I would the do a coolant system flush and if it still reads hot, replace the temprature sender. I really would be careful not to overheat the 1hz, presuming thats the motor you have?
Hello,
According to the VIN, your 73 was built on March 1990. Sadly, there is no way to confirm the mileage.
It is possible that the number written on the timing chain plate refers to the next change.
It is also possible that your water pump and thermostat gave up the ghost and need replacement. A good chance to change them, as well as the coolant. After all, it is a 28 year old truck.
You might also want to re-core the radiator.
Hope this helps.
Juan
According to the VIN, your 73 was built on March 1990. Sadly, there is no way to confirm the mileage.
It is possible that the number written on the timing chain plate refers to the next change.
It is also possible that your water pump and thermostat gave up the ghost and need replacement. A good chance to change them, as well as the coolant. After all, it is a 28 year old truck.
You might also want to re-core the radiator.
Hope this helps.
Juan
- Thread starter
- #4
hey indestructible and hey juan! thanks for the reply! I think that's exactly whats going on. the km's written on the cover are when the next change is due. and I think I figured out why its getting hot. strangest thing in case anyone else runs into this I found out that on the radiator reservoir there is a thin rubber gasket under the lid and a small hole in it that has to line up with another hole so the radiator will vent. it wasn't lined up and it was holding pressure and making the water pump have to work too hard to do its job. too much back pressure. and the resovoir was pressurd up also as the small tube at the top was stopped up because of this. I moved the gasket just a little till the holes lined up and it vents now. who in the world would have thought? but I am going to flush it out and maybe put on a new water pump as I don't know if it was replaced. I think the clutch fan is ok but I may replace it too. I will drive it awhile and see if that fixes it and get back with ya'll. thanks so much. I really like this rig! going to be lots of fun I think. I think tony from garanin corp. gave me a really good deal on this. super clean, absolutely no rust, and tons of new OEM parts. thanks guys!
Clad to help sounds good job on figuring ir out.
I doubt that having the cap on the overflow bottle loose has anything to do with your overheating problem, if the water level is correct the bottom tube is always submerged wether the cap is on tight or not, like I told you on the phone you better take a closer look at the condition of your waterpump or radiator core, maybe even a thermostat that sticks from time to time.
@SteveJackson any info on the auction sheet hzj730001366 about the mileage being correct or not ?
I will look it up and report back here, but definitely sounds like the odo was rolled back 100k. The km’s on the timing belt sticker are when it was last changed. I’m sorry that it looks like you were bitten by this, I know we were keeping an eye out for something in your price and spec range but didn’t have any that fit at the moment.
Back when we started getting these JDM landcruisers to Canada in the early 2000s (we have a 15 year import rule here), it was commonly acknowledged that the odometers had been rolled back. My LJ came in with 145,000kms on the odo, but looked more like it had 220,000km given the wear on the steering wheel etc.
As said, either way things should be fine. Just give that motor the servicing it needs to keep it cool. Toyota IDI engines are prone to heat problems, and that can spell disaster if not taken care of asap. Fan clutch and radiator core are big ones. I sort of doubt the water pump impeller is worn. Usually it's the bearings/seals that go on them....although I'm not that familiar with the 1HZ water pump in particular, maybe it's unique.
As said, either way things should be fine. Just give that motor the servicing it needs to keep it cool. Toyota IDI engines are prone to heat problems, and that can spell disaster if not taken care of asap. Fan clutch and radiator core are big ones. I sort of doubt the water pump impeller is worn. Usually it's the bearings/seals that go on them....although I'm not that familiar with the 1HZ water pump in particular, maybe it's unique.
- Thread starter
- #9
thanks very much guys- I looked again at timing cover and the reading said 207,000 km but there was also a date, I think, above it. it was 20 3 26. thinking it was a date but writing in Japanese so not sure. like it was to be changed again on march 26, 2020 but not sure if that's right. don't know what else it could mean though. hoping that some people do put the next time it needs to be changed on the timing cover. and also, the odometer numbers are in a perfect straight line. I have heard that if it has been rolled back, the numbers would be a little crooked. but that may be hearsay. and thank you steve for looking for me one. the way this was explained to me by a friend who is pretty savvy on motors was this. there is a small hole in the gasket on the filler cap gasket on radiator reservoir. it lines up with another hole so the radiator will vent and they had gotten out of line where you couldn't blow through the vent tube or the one that goes down into resovoir. on the drive home, I pulled over to let it cool off and for some reason popped the cap on reservoir. when I did it blew up in my face and scalded me a little. but there is a vent tube there and supposed to be no pressure on a reservoir with only a plastic cap. I think the short tube vents the steam and you couldn't blow through it at all. but with the gasket hole lined up correctly, you could blow through it easily. so he said the raidiator was so pressurized it made it hard for the water pump to do its job as it was working against all this pressure? he said a long time ago his dads car got hot on a trip several times and he pulled into a service station and this old man said "you need a new radiator cap" and that will fix it. changed it and no more problem. like the springs on cap weren't releasing the pressure and venting the radiator. used to it just ran out on the ground. I don't know if that made his water pump work better but it quit getting hot. but my reservoir was under lots of pressure. does any of this make any sense to ya'll? there are a couple of slits on the rubber gasket that line up on reservoir and if they line up the holes are lined up and the pressure can escape. but I will get my radiator rodded out and cleaned and see about a water pump cause I sure don't want to hurt the motor. but I would like to know also if this theory makes any sense to anyone. does anyone also know if I can get a pump here in the states? sorry this is so long. also, steve I wish you had had one cause you are only 350 miles from me and I would have much rather driven there than fly to florida and drive 1200 miles back home but you just didn't have one at the time. my luck I guess. thanks though.
The date is the Heisei year in Japan, 26 was 2014, the timing belt was changed 3/20/14 with 207k. It is possible to verify mileage with various record sources so not every JDM is rolled back but many are. It is easy to line up the numbers. I’ve had to change some clusters and have moved the odometers to the correct reading with proper alignment. I will post up the records report I get back.
What color is the coolant? If it’s running hot, check the gauge and then everything in the cooling system.
What color is the coolant? If it’s running hot, check the gauge and then everything in the cooling system.
Pretty normal for JDM vehicles
Well they have either used a whole new or used odometer from another vehicle, or because of the number they have rolled back, they have perfected it.
At what speeds did it overheat?
It doesnt make sense to me. Its spinning around, its not affected by pressure. The only thing a good radiator cap does is hold the correct pressure. This raises the boiling point of the coolant. When the coolant bubbles it gets steam bubbles around the bores which makes the engine run hotter, so keeping it under pressure keeps it cooler.
Pumps are easy to get, but there is probably nothing wrong with it. I would leave it to the next timing belt change. Pumps rarely fail in that they dont pump coolant, they fail because coolant is leaking out from corrosion or because the bush around the shaft is worn out. The 1HZ pumps have a weep hole to tell you when its beginning to leak
- Thread starter
- #13
thank you guys. hate to hear it was changed in 2014. maybe it only got rolled back 100,000 km. sure seems to run good where maybe that's only 245,000 km. think that's like 150,000 miles and may not be so bad. I saw a partial pic of what I guess was the auction ticket but couldn't see the mileage. and the coolant was a red color and didn't seem super dirty but not sure. it started to overheat more when I got up to 65 or 70 MPH[not km.] could drive through rain and I cooled off pretty quick. I could pull over and let it idle and it would cool down quick. wonder because the radiator couldn't vent if it held too much pressure and made it too hot. also, I drove it 1200 miles and didn't use a drop of oil. i guess if it has a lot of miles it may be good to replace it all. water pump, fan clutch, and the belts. then guess I could eliminate all of it. could run a compression test but it seems to run good. if so, wonder if I can get the parts stateside? could rod out the radiator. was going to try a flush and fill kit but not sure where to install one. then, when it comes out clear put new coolant and distilled water? I hear 2 gallons of 50/50 and 2 gal of distilled water? maybe run it with water and flush it again? thanks for all ya'lls good advice and thanks steve for taking the time to look at the records.
150,000 miles for HZ diesel is the spring of life 
I saw Land Cruisers in good shape that have 500,000 miles on odometer.
Overheating can be result of dirty radiator. Also change the radiator cap.
I saw Land Cruisers in good shape that have 500,000 miles on odometer.
Overheating can be result of dirty radiator. Also change the radiator cap.
Odometer reading was 245,006 when last sold 4/20/2016 in Osaka.
I agree that it's still not high KM's for a 1HZ. However, it's unfortunate because the vehicle should have been represented accurately. Now you have a rolled back odometer and overheating.
I agree that it's still not high KM's for a 1HZ. However, it's unfortunate because the vehicle should have been represented accurately. Now you have a rolled back odometer and overheating.
- Thread starter
- #16
thank you everyone! and thanks so much steve! now I can see exactly what is going on! that was the dealers auction sheet so tony must have run it back and he said "no way it has been rolled back". I thought he was a pretty honest guy too. cant trust but very few people I guess. still, I think 245000km =152000 miles so maybe it will still work out ok. for a 28 year old vehicle its kinda hard to believe it was only driven 145000 km anyway. that's about 90000 miles. the motor does feel real strong and didn't use any oil in 1200 miles and doesn't smoke even a tiny bit, and starts instantly, and I cant feel any misses at the tailpipe or hear any weird noises or rattles. no oil or grease at all on the motor. I hear that's still pretty low mileage for a 1hz and hopefully I will get many more miles out of it. much thanks steve for going to the trouble to look that up for me. sure gave me a peace of mind to know. does anyone know where to get water pumps and fan clutches and fan belts for it?again, thanks to everyone for your support. I will let you know how it goes.
Mike,
Searching for the low mileage HZJ7x cruiser from 90th looks like an unicorn hunting. It can be found, but will take a lot of time and money
Searching for the low mileage HZJ7x cruiser from 90th looks like an unicorn hunting. It can be found, but will take a lot of time and money
I would make sure thats the problem before you start throwing money at it. The water pumps in these have a nylon impeller which still look new after 2-300000klms. I know because I have changed 3 of them. Its leaks that let them down not coolant flow.
You are going to have to do the timing belt at 300000klms and the pump is in deep behind that, so that is the time to do it. The simple test for the fan clutch is to spin it with your fingers, if it keeps spinning it needs replacement. If it doesnt , its most likely good.
The areas I would look for with your overheating problem would be a lack of pressure in the coolant system. Either from an old radiator cap or loose hose fittings.
But with the over heating, whats makes you think it was overheating? Did it go off the top of the red? On warm days the 1HZ temp gauge will always climb towards the red if you keep pushing it to 120 kph. This is really its max safe cruising speed.
As for your parts, many are available from American Toyota dealers, but you need to take the part number with you
I would make sure thats the problem before you start throwing money at it. The water pumps in these have a nylon impeller which still look new after 2-300000klms. I know because I have changed 3 of them. Its leaks that let them down not coolant flow.
You are going to have to do the timing belt at 300000klms and the pump is in deep behind that, so that is the time to do it. The simple test for the fan clutch is to spin it with your fingers, if it keeps spinning it needs replacement. If it doesnt , its most likely good.
The areas I would look for with your overheating problem would be a lack of pressure in the coolant system. Either from an old radiator cap or loose hose fittings.
But with the over heating, whats makes you think it was overheating? Did it go off the top of the red? On warm days the 1HZ temp gauge will always climb towards the red if you keep pushing it to 120 kph. This is really its max safe cruising speed.
As for your parts, many are available from American Toyota dealers, but you need to take the part number with you
- Thread starter
- #20
hi rosco- thanks. I hear you on the water pump and fan clutch. I took off the radiator and had it pressure washed and hardly any trash at all in it, and it had no leaks. and the fan clutch had some grease on the front of it but its stiff when you spin it and after driven a while it loosens up. when you kill the motor it stops real quick. and the gauge showed hot up to the water mark or whatever it is that is below the red line. never got to thee red line as I would always pull over. went down fast when I pulled over and let it idle. at times I was only going 50-55 on my gps. that's all I could do so it wouldn't keep going up. finally drove thru some rainstorms and it cooled off. but I think these things go across deserts and stuff and it was only 90 outside. I am going to flush the block and add new fluid. maybe that will help some. still, the radiator couldn't vent as the hole in the gasket on the reservoir lid wasn't lined up with the hole on the cap and you couldn't blow thru it at all. so I guess it couldn't let off steam but not sure how that affects it. I know the overflow blew up in my face when I took off the cap. ouch! that shouldn't happen again now that I lined up the holes in the cap. whether that will help with the heating, I don't know. thanks a lot for your help.