Hurricane Chantal Tried to Kill My 80 Series....What Now?

[john0089]

My 1997 Land Cruiser got caught up in the flood waters of Hurricane Chantal over the weekend in central NC. This has been in the family since new and I never had any intention of selling it. I remember my dad bringing it home in the late 90s and this is the vehicle I learned to drive in. Chantal dropped 8" of rain in Alamance County in a 24 hour period and the Haw River rose close to 30'. The cruiser never stood a chance and was entirely submerged for at least 3-4 hours. There is mud literally in the sunroof tracks. She floated about 15 feet from where I had parked it.

That being said, does anybody have any tips for saving her?

So far I've stripped out all the interior carpet and seats, disassembled most of the dash. Unplugged whatever connectors on the interior that I could get to. I've been spraying the connectors with fresh water and then drying with compressed air. I took apart the ECM and dried the best I could, its still disassembled. All the fuses were removed and relays got the compressed air treatment.

I pulled the drain plug on the transmission and refilled with about 4qts of ATF. Drained several quarts of water out of the engine and added fresh oil/filter. I pulled the spark plugs then turned the engine over by hand. Then I jumped the starter (which still works) and got the engine to turn over with the plugs out and ejected the water in the cylinders.

I pulled the fuel pump and inspected the gas in the tank which still appears to be clean. I drained some at the plug in the bottom of the tank as well and no water came out. Still need to drain the diffs and Tcase to inspect for water.

Any advice on what I should do before I attempt to start the engine? At a minimum what needs to be plugged in for the engine to run? I'm assuming if I can get it up to temperature and oil circulating that any residual moisture will evaporate?

 

[Marvelicious]

I don't want to - I was literally going to say rain on your parade, but you probably don't need that right now. Anyway, just a data point: I once had a vehicle totaled over flood damage. The insurance company didn't even bother to send an adjuster when I sent them a picture with only the upper part of the cab poking out of the water. I hope you manage to save it, but I suspect you may be chasing gremlins afterward. I'm assuming you don't have full coverage? If it's covered, I'd be hard pressed not to take the money and start shopping for another.

In addition to the obvious stuff you're already doing, I'd suggest doping every electrical connection you pull apart with some stuff called Ox-gard. It's zinc based and it'll give any corrosion something sacrificial to attack. Just treat the pins on the connectors, not the plastic body. Other than that, I think you're doing what you need to do. Getting it up to temp and cooking the water out of everything is probably a high priority, and I'd plan to do a couple of fluid changes afterward.

 

[TXMeatball]

You've done everything I would do. Sounds like you were quick to disassemble and dry everything out. If it was fresh water I'd bet it would start up first try. Just keep a fire extinguisher handy.

This guy has a video series of a Silverado that got pretty soaked.

 

[SoTexCruiserDoc]

Wow. I didn’t even know about that hurricane. We’ve been so wrapped up with the cataclysmic floods in central Texas, unaware of the rest of the world for a bit. Hate to hear your story there.

Interesting you’re asking for advice, as you clearly have the advice to give! I hope you manage to save her. Sincerely best wishes and keep us posted…

 

[Kernal]

Pull the distributor cap to clean out the electronics, use electronics cleaner (NOT carb or brake cleaner on the distributor or any electronics).

Consider pulling the Throttle Body to clean it out but also check the intake for a pool of water inside.

Consider pulling the complete distributor as water might get inside the housing where the shaft bushing and bearings are located (replace distributor O-ring while it's out). Again, do NOT use Carb, Throttle Body, or Brake cleaner on the inside of the distributor or into the lube slots for the distributor housing/shaft, those strong solvents can shrink and deform old seals. Use electronics cleaner.

If you haven't already spray oil (fogging oil if you have it) into each cylinder, crank the engine with the plugs out.
Change the oil filter of course then refill with generic oil and new filter ASAP to get the water of the oil galleys and away from the bearings. Then run that oil a short time (minutes, don't race the engine), drain the oil again, another new filter and oil refill, etc.

A purist might say pull the valve cover and oil pans, but if you do a few engine oil drain and fills with new filters you should get all the water out.

Consider a Rodney flush for the transmission (complete ATF fluid exchange)

Need to drain diffs and transfer case of course. And then pull the front and rear axle hubs/bearings/axle shafts out, clean, repack etc. You can spray the inside of the axle housings with something to clean them out. I used white kerosene fuel then a 2" stainless steel cylindrical brush on a long rod (McMaster), followed by the large Red can of CRC PRO brake cleaner as it comes out in a more powerful stream, then something to stop corrosion. I used 3M Cavity wax sprayed inside the axle housings from both ends, theory being it will prevent corrosion and once the gear oil gets inside that will wash away any wax where the gear oil goes. First fill was cheapo gear oil, take it for a drive to get it all to operating temperature, drain again, and refill with your usual gear oil. Check to see that the axle breathers are clear and functioning.

New air filter of course, clean the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner (Hexane).

 

[White Stripe]

Pull the dash completely. Pull the door panels, and unplug everything. Pull the seat covers, wash the foams in some big totes of soapy water. Flush the brakes, power steering, coolant, pull all lights pull bulbs, soak in soapy water. Treat each electrical connector with grease you research to work. Pressure wash out the frame rails and all body cavities to get moisture holding mud out. (Quarter panels, doors, rockers, etc) Some cavities on an 80 have body plugs you can pull easily to help with this. Pull the lower oil pan and trans fan to check for sediment accumulation. I think you'll save it and be fine. Computers/modules may be shot though. Mostly just a ton of cleaning/labor.

 

[thatcabledude]

I think you’ll get it going. You’ve done what I would do. I’m glad you didn’t throw in the towel on a family heirloom. Keep us updated.

*I didn’t even know there was a hurricane that made landfall.

 

[bhsdriller]

sell it as ran when parked

 

[WildernessRimFab]

Unhook the fuel line upstream of the injectors and cycle the fuel pump. Dump fuel into a waste container.
My buddy bought a dead T100 that came from the bottom of a river (fully submerged over the roof).
Flushing the fuel lines got it running again after a full fluid change.

 

[john0089]

Thank you for the encouragement. I am doing everything in my power to save her. I work 8-5 and I'm doing the best I can to find the time to get everything cleaned out. I'm usually very careful with the interior/trim clips, but I feel like the clock is ticking to get certain components dry. It was no beauty queen but had never been off road or abused. Many of the connectors and hoses in the engine compartment are brittle so not trying to pull everything apart just yet. For right now I just want to get it running. Most of the ignition components seem dry and the connectors did their job keeping the moisture out.

I knew we were going to get rain but had no idea this was even possible where it was parked.

 

[Batameez]

I would strip out the entire interior and treat the carpet and seat foam as junk now. May be worth getting a donor vehicle and swapping all harnesses and electronics over. I won't even discuss dollar figures if this has been with you since new, I get it.

 

[Kernal]

If you file a claim the insurance company will for sure total it and likely mark it as "Flood Salvage" which could affect how it's registered, ability to get insurance, etc,etc. Every State seems to have their own regulations covering Salvage titles.

Might be more cost effective to consider it as a parts vehicle (buy it back if there are any good parts on it?) and start looking for another??

 

[CharlieS]

Body donor.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Ouch! That sucks.

Any submerged vehicle is an immediate write off in Aus.
Salt water causes corrosion.
Fresh/ flood water carries a lot of organic material, perfect for breeding mold and mildew.

Mechanical stuff can be cleaned and dried and lube etc. Just get it done as fast as possible.


I see two issues that will be hard to manage into the future

1. Future electrical issues. There's several body control modules and ecu's tucked away. Trying to get all them out and dried along with harness connctors etc will be a challenge. Corrosion of connectors could be an issue. Not too mention electric actuators, motors etc that wouldn't normally see any water

2. Adequately drying all interior stuff like seat cushions, carpets, door cards, dash pad, padded armrests etc. Anything with foam on/in it will be soaked.
You'll need to remove any of the factory wadding on floor, firewall, roof etc etc.
Any accumulated mud in nooks and crannies will stay damp and grow mold.

You've got a huge time critical job ahead of you to clean it all up. Then a huge job piecing it all back together

I lost my hzj105 to mold infestation. It got water inside while stored under a carport. By the time I found it, it was on its way to being a penicillin farm inside. No amount of cleaning stops mold.
I pulled all the interior, cleaned everything I could touch. A couple of years later it sat in a basement garage for a few months. Humidity was too high, and the mold exploded again, with a vengeance! 1- 1¹l½" long mold forest growing on every carpet, fabric, or vinyl surface! Including steering wheel, shift knob etc

I pulled the engine and transmission out and had the rest taken away for scrap metal! Nothing in the vehicle was salvageable.

 

[Bisonthecruiser]

If you can get it in a garage for a date with an industrial sized dehumidifier, I would start there.
edit: +large fans + pull out everything you possible can. get it all dry and then assess.

 

[mudgudgeon]

If you can get it in a garage for a date with an industrial sized dehumidifier, I would start there.
edit: +large fans + pull out everything you possible can. get it all dry and then assess.

This is good suggestion. Humidity is a big problem. The longer stuff stays damp or wet, the less recoverable it is.

Using an ozone generator machine in the vehicle could also help keep mildew at bay.

A big dehumidifier suitable for a basement or garage is around $350-400 from Lowe's, Home Depot etc.
Bought one for a work project recently.
They need to be emptied daily, or set up with a drain hose.

I used a small one inside my current 80 when it was stored in a damp basement garage situation. (IH8ApartmentBuildingBasementGarages!)
Kept my 80 toasty warm and dry inside. And still pulled a surprising amount of water each day.

 

[john0089]

Here's where I'm at as of last night. Sad that this was a clean complete vehicle a few days ago. Carpet is just sitting outside getting rained on and drying out with the weather. I keep putting the seats outside in the sun, but we are still getting rain so lugging them in and out is a task. I might try to find a donor vehicle for replacement seats as I've never attempted to reupholster something. I think I got to all of the control modules, cleaned them then dried them back out. All the chips seem to have some sort of water resistant coating on them. This had the Auto Climate Control A/C which I'm sure is shot. Radio is trash. I'm going to try and clean out the instrument cluster today, she flooded with 342,389 miles on the odometer.

 

[Old Nick]

Here's where I'm at as of last night. Sad that this was a clean complete vehicle a few days ago. Carpet is just sitting outside getting rained on and drying out with the weather. I keep putting the seats outside in the sun, but we are still getting rain so lugging them in and out is a task. I might try to find a donor vehicle for replacement seats as I've never attempted to reupholster something. I think I got to all of the control modules, cleaned them then dried them back out. All the chips seem to have some sort of water resistant coating on them. This had the Auto Climate Control A/C which I'm sure is shot. Radio is trash. I'm going to try and clean out the instrument cluster today, she flooded with 342,389 miles on the odometer. View attachment 3946891View attachment 3946893

Darn it, man. I am so sorry to read this. No real advice other that what you're doing and what a few others above posted. Hoping that you can get the old girl sorted out and running again.

 

[mudgudgeon]

If you have a closed in garage, a heater and dehumidifier working together wood be the ticket.
I've had cars leak and saturate carpets. A fan heater running in a closed garage will dry stuff out quickly.

The truck with seats is the foam will feel dry on the surface, but be holding water deep in the foam.

While stuff like seats, carpet etc are wet, clean with a diluted laundry detergent and water. Then dry then out.

 

[effjay80]

OMG so sorry what you and the folks in TX enduring this summer it just terrible.