Huracan Storage Install (1 Viewer)

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Does anyone have a good video of an installation on a 100 series? I feel like the 80 (in the vids) has fewer electrical things running around and it might be different on a 100.
 
I installed mine a few weeks ago. I’m not used to how much heavier the tailgate is now. Also, you really don’t gain a ton of storage. Honestly, I probably wouldn’t do it again.
The bolt heads on mine are corroding, look like hell. I don't take the truck to the beach, don't haul pool chlorine, so there is no reason for them to corrode. And the latches truly suck. Would not buy again.
 
Just installed mine--I think they've addressed a number of issues folks raised earlier in this thread. The instructions actually show (mostly) pictures of a 100 series tailgate, the latches seem pretty awesome and were easy to adjust, and they include little plastic furniture slider thingmos to keep the rear flap from fouling the latches when you raise the tailgate.

The extra storage space is awesome--I fit an entire backpack full of recovery gear in mine--25' Treaty Oak kinetic recovery rope, tree strap, soft and hard shackles, snatch block, winch controller, spare coolant and engine oil (in 1l camping stove fuel bottles), hatchet, tire plug kit, and probably other stuff I've forgotten.

No rattles at all.

Most of this stuff is bulky but not heavy, and I tried to keep the weight low, but the tailgate now drops pretty startlingly when I undo the latch in the casual way I'm used to--will take me a while to remember to get ready to resist some weight when I undo the latch. I've told the kids (currently 7, 6, and 4) they are NOT allowed to open the tailgate--that thing will give one of them a concussion if they reach up and undo it. I toyed with keeping the spring but it really wouldn't work, since the spring arms would sit across the middle of both compartments and make everything a huge pain in the rear.

All in all, a pretty great product . . . I just freed up a good chunk of space and put the recovery gear where it won't be buried under 47 tons of camping gear when we need it.

Public Service Announcement--if you get the carpet put the carpet on BEFORE you put the latches on or bolt the cover to your tailgate. I finished everything up and was like "right! time for carpet!" Wraw wraw. Not sure if the instructions said that as I think mine must've blown away halfway through the job in the insane winds we had on Saturday. . .

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I was wondering how people were handling the spring arms. I just got done cutting into mine with that surprise.
What did you do with the latch wires and the light harnesses?
 
I was wondering how people were handling the spring arms. I just got done cutting into mine with that surprise.
What did you do with the latch wires and the light harnesses?
There isn't really a way to keep them, I cut mine and was hoping that the remainder would be of some assistance, but it really isn't. As mdcoa said, it's HEAVY with a lot of recovery stuff in it ( I have about the same stuff in mine, actually, tree saver, kinetic rope, bow and soft shackles etc). I have the wires and cables underneath the padding, as long as the cable housing is still in the metal clips, the door latches work as they should.
 
I was wondering how people were handling the spring arms. I just got done cutting into mine with that surprise.
What did you do with the latch wires and the light harnesses?
Agree with @4Beast , not really a way to keep the springs. I left my wires over the sound padding to make maintenance easy—they pretty much just disappear down inside when you load stuff in. I thought about getting clips to secure them to the outside of the sound pads but decided it wasn’t vital. The cables can just tuck up inside the top of the tailgate and remain out of the way.
 
I am looking at installing this tonight, but I am curious if anyone has thought about making it a split opening system so you can open one side and not the other? Would it be as simple as cutting a straight line down the panel and through the hinge? Some of my family trips don't require a whole array of recovery gear. I'd like to put a minimal amount of recovery gear on the passenger and some everyday use camp stuff, tools, etc. on the other side and let it still be accessible when camp kitchen drawers are pulled out on one side.

Also anyone have an approximation for installation time? I was gonna budget 4 hours and hoping that's plenty....
 
Interesting idea--I can't think of a reason a split door wouldn't work and can see that being a great help when running a drawer setup.

Four hours seems about right, but not all of that will be active time--probably an hour or 90 min for drill/cut/debur/paint bare edges, then a couple hours for paint to dry, then ~ an hour to install sound matting and bolt the door in place. If you got the carpet, put it on BEFORE bolting door to tailgate . . . ask me how I know.
 
I am looking at installing this tonight, but I am curious if anyone has thought about making it a split opening system so you can open one side and not the other? Would it be as simple as cutting a straight line down the panel and through the hinge? Some of my family trips don't require a whole array of recovery gear. I'd like to put a minimal amount of recovery gear on the passenger and some everyday use camp stuff, tools, etc. on the other side and let it still be accessible when camp kitchen drawers are pulled out on one side.

Also anyone have an approximation for installation time? I was gonna budget 4 hours and hoping that's plenty....
I think thats more work than its worth, just plan your storage so that while you have drawers out you won't need to access the tailgate. It reall is only good for soft items anyways like recovery gear.

It took me like 60 minutes to install it making the long cuts with a 4.5" angle grinder and cutoff wheel, jigsaw for the corners and more intricate angles. Chopped the lift assist bar from the bottom with an angle grinder as well. Cleaned up the sharp edges with a flap disc.
 
Double check that the tailgate release cables really are out of the way when cutting... 👀
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I think thats more work than its worth, just plan your storage so that while you have drawers out you won't need to access the tailgate. It reall is only good for soft items anyways like recovery gear.

It took me like 60 minutes to install it making the long cuts with a 4.5" angle grinder and cutoff wheel, jigsaw for the corners and more intricate angles. Chopped the lift assist bar from the bottom with an angle grinder as well. Cleaned up the sharp edges with a flap disc.
Yeah, for now I'll install it as is. It'll probably take some time to figure out what's nice to have in it. I'll have to think through it on a couple trips. Personally I think using the entire tailgate for just recovery gear is kind of a waste for something that's so convenient and accessible. Ultimately the number of times I have to access recovery gear is not that high and not all recovery gear gets used the same amount as each other. 90% of the time the most I'm grabbing is a tree saver, 1x D-link, and a snatch block. That should fit on one side easy I would think.
Interesting idea--I can't think of a reason a split door wouldn't work and can see that being a great help when running a drawer setup.

Four hours seems about right, but not all of that will be active time--probably an hour or 90 min for drill/cut/debur/paint bare edges, then a couple hours for paint to dry, then ~ an hour to install sound matting and bolt the door in place. If you got the carpet, put it on BEFORE bolting door to tailgate . . . ask me how I know.
Thanks, good to know. I did get the carpet. I'll look at the hinge and keep it in the back of my mind but probably install it as is for now.
 
Yeah, for now I'll install it as is. It'll probably take some time to figure out what's nice to have in it. I'll have to think through it on a couple trips. Personally I think using the entire tailgate for just recovery gear is kind of a waste for something that's so convenient and accessible. Ultimately the number of times I have to access recovery gear is not that high and not all recovery gear gets used the same amount as each other. 90% of the time the most I'm grabbing is a tree saver, 1x D-link, and a snatch block. That should fit on one side easy I would think.
Yeah I agree to a certain extent. That tailgate sheet metal is extremely flimsy so anything with substantial weight or really hard objects just aren't a great option. Honestly I've considered leaving space in mine for snack food and stuff while camping.
 
Yeah I agree to a certain extent. That tailgate sheet metal is extremely flimsy so anything with substantial weight or really hard objects just aren't a great option. Honestly I've considered leaving space in mine for snack food and stuff while camping.
My tailgate lid is stuffed with recovery gear and air compressor hose on one side with paper towels, wet wipes, TP, hand warmers, jerky and dried fruit on the other side. Makes for a quick snack accessibility when stopped.
 
My tailgate lid is stuffed with recovery gear and air compressor hose on one side with paper towels, wet wipes, TP, hand warmers, jerky and dried fruit on the other side. Makes for a quick snack accessibility when stopped.
Yeah this is the exact type of stuff its perfect for. I am just saying don't use it for tools metal spares and such haha
 
Yeah this is the exact type of stuff its perfect for. I am just saying don't use it for tools metal spares and such haha
Even with the light load out I have, my wife still manages to drop the damn thing every time she opens up the back :rolleyes: Luckily my tailgate is already bent so she isn't likely to do to much damage.
 
Alright I’m already confused, what I am supposed to do with group of wires laying across here? Is there a disconnect I’m not seeing?
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Alright I’m already confused, what I am supposed to do with group of wires laying across here? Is there a disconnect I’m not seeing?View attachment 2553338
Pop out the little clips that hold them to the sheet metal, unplug them from the tail light assemblies on both sides (remove the three-screw access plates on both sides to gain access), tuck them out of the way, and make sure you don't cut through them with the angle grinder!
 

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