I have bashed my stockers on every rock in sight and they still look good to me.
Here's a thought. If the most common failure is a weld breaking allowing the hoop to straighten out, why not pull them, clean them up, and re-weld them all the way around where the hoop attaches to the plate? You could even add a gusset to the section of the hoop in the back that kinda goes sideways across the plate (see photo above).
Yep. I know, and it is not a good idea unless they are modified, but hey it looks really cool. LOL. I really don't know about the new ones, whether they are made for recovery points or not. I just know that if you ever have to use that fancy Hi-Lift mounted with your spare or wherever that you are SOL if you need to jack a front ARB without the adapter.
My newest ARB is a 1997 production piece and still has the radio whip mounting on the driver's side. IE for right hand drive.
If you break a factory tow point, you are sunk up to the rails in mud or sand. It's easier to get a truck off a log or rock, albeit not without damage than it is one stuck in muck. Then we are talking logging chains wrapped around both rails, more chain and a D9 CAT.
Yep, one of those shackles attached to an ARB jack point flying through the air on the end of winch cable when the metal gives way could ruin your whole day, or year. Don't do it. I've seen it. Not me. I told them once. They didn't listen, so I just sat back away and watched the fun. It was fugly.
If that makes you feel better about buying it. If overpriced bling is your thing. I could make the same thing with my drill press, plasma cutter and swag press brake. No Bridgeport or laser cutter needed. Only thing needed on the buyers end is a tub of Vaseline and ankle straps.
If that makes you feel better about buying it. If overpriced bling is your thing. I could make the same thing with my drill press, plasma cutter and swag press brake. No Bridgeport or laser cutter needed. Only thing needed on the buyers end is a tub of Vaseline and ankle straps.
Press brake kit was only $200 for the HF 20 ton press. Well worth it for the price. No need for a shop with $1+ mil worth of equipment outside my door.
(however that would be kick asss)
Press brake kit was only $200 for the HF 20 ton press. Well worth it for the price. No need for a shop with $1+ mil worth of equipment outside my door.
(however that would be kick asss)
Looks like the standard idea is to cut up some 1/2" thick angle iron and drill some holes...easy home project with a grinder and drill press and some time.
Looks like the standard idea is to cut up some 1/2" thick angle iron and drill some holes...easy home project with a grinder and drill press and some time.
I have bashed my stockers on every rock in sight and they still look good to me.
Here's a thought. If the most common failure is a weld breaking allowing the hoop to straighten out, why not pull them, clean them up, and re-weld them all the way around where the hoop attaches to the plate? You could even add a gusset to the section of the hoop in the back that kinda goes sideways across the plate (see photo above).
Looks like the standard idea is to cut up some 1/2" thick angle iron and drill some holes...easy home project with a grinder and drill press and some time.
If your going to go that far it might be advantageous to have the local muffler shop weld them solid. Just remind them to remove the battery cable before welding on any Chassis.
Cutting 1/2" and making a pretty radius is no easy task with a hand grinder and a Cubitron II. I speak from experience.
An Annualar cutter works great for making Large Holes.
Another Option for about $15. The only issue with these might be noise. About 3" of good weld is hard to bust.
I thought you could prevent most of that if you took it up past purple, around 600 degrees, and used an oil quench. Probably is a technique, but I don't remember. I only played with the Heat N Hit boys for about 6 months. Really did not mind the heat so much, even here in Arizona summertime, but I was more interested in wrenching on tlcs.
