How's your 100 Series Body Lift? (2 Viewers)

[LandCruiserPhil]

I can have a go but I didn't take pictures The main thing I did was trim the tabs on the bottom of the shroud and the holders they fit into on the bottom of the radiator about 5mm each. I also removed the little rubber covers from those tabs at the bottom of the shroud and cut the ends off before refitting them. That dropped my shroud and then I slotted the tabs on the top of the shroud that bolt up to the radiator so they would still fit just about. There's one bolt half way down the side of the shroud that I had to leave out and one of the expansion bottle holes got a zip tie through it to hold it in place. Sounds a bit shaky but it's all very firm or I would have just removed the shroud completely (not going to be a problem with UK weather!).

Today I finished modifying my OEM rear bumper so it sits properly instead of being down at the rear. I'll post something about that with some pictures tomorrow when I have a bit more time.

Thanks

 

[wildsmith]

I raised my OEM rear bumper 16mm by removing the metal strip that runs along the bottom edge of the plastic inside the bumper, cutting off the plastic tabs that worked with it and also cut off the ends of the side support brackets. Then I lengthened the mounting holes in the side support brackets 16mm and the bumper could then be mounted level but wasn't very well fixed. I solved that by getting two strips of steel, drilled them with matching holes and welded new mounting bracket tabs to one of them to line up with the origional captive nuts in the underside of rear cross member. Then I ran them along the bottom edge of the bumper, one inside, the other out to make a bumper sandwich and riveted them together through the bumper. Now the bumper sits level and is well supported again.

Closest picture I have to showing new bumper alignment:

 

[wishiniwozfishin]

Brilliant Post. I am about to fit 35" tyres and this mod is happening soon. I'm not looking forward to pulling the drawers out and tackling no. 6 pucks though. I reckon by the time I get it all back together, I'll be well and truly pucked

 

[FullyLitLED]

are there any aftermarket body lifts for the 100 series?

 

[hoser]

They can custom make whatever you need. You just need to know what it is you need.

4Crawler Offroad - Custom Body Lift Kits

 

[FullyLitLED]

They can custom make whatever you need. You just need to know what it is you need.

4Crawler Offroad - Custom Body Lift Kits

I need a 1" lift. The guy from 4crawler off road said that he needs the diameter and length of the bold and the diameter of the body mount itself. Does anyone have that imfromation handy?

 

[wildsmith]

I finaly got round to putting in a 40mm body lift this afternoon (up from 16mm) and this thread seems like as good a place as any to post an update.

After scratching my head about engine fan and radiator shroud clearance I went with cutting away some of the lower part of the shroud. Making new brackets to drop the radiator is an option but I may lift the engine and gearbox later (for better transfer box clearance). As well as making new (2 3/4" diameter) spacers for the body mounts I made a spacer for the base of the steering column which will be needed above 20mm or so IMO. The only other thing I had to deal with is adjusting the gear selector linkage almost to the end of the slot so bigger than 40mm might need a longer linkage.

I've still to sort out the now sagging rear bumper again, the gap between the front (T3) bumper and the body and also between my sliders and the body.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I finaly got round to putting in a 40mm body lift this afternoon (up from 16mm) and this thread seems like as good a place as any to post an update.

After scratching my head about engine fan and radiator shroud clearance I went with cutting away some of the lower part of the shroud. Making new brackets to drop the radiator is an option but I may lift the engine and gearbox later (for better transfer box clearance). As well as making new (2 3/4" diameter) spacers for the body mounts I made a spacer for the base of the steering column which will be needed needed above 20mm or so IMO. The only other thing I had to deal with is adjusting the gear selector linkage almost to the end of the slot so bigger than 40mm might need a longer linkage.

I've still to sort out the now sagging rear bumper again, the gap between the front (T3) bumper and the body and also between my sliders and the body.

Nice that you have it on and working...but your post is worthless without pictures
Any issues with the AHC components? Also how did address the front fender skirts?

 

[2000UZJ]

Wildsmith, Got any pictures?

 

[wildsmith]

I will try and add some pictures today. Yesterday was a bit of a rush, I'd spent a lot of time thinking through what to do but only had a few hours to actually get it done so I skipped pictures.

No issues with the AHC, that's not affected other than taking up some slack in wires and pipes where they cross from the chassis to the body in the engine bay. The little plastic covers that go between the chassis and inner wings on the front I just disconnected at the bottom, they won't stretch 40mm (are those the fender skirts?)

The transfer box shifter is much lower down now but still has the full range of movement.

Where the bottom of the steering column passes through the bulkhead it's quite a close fit so that'd be something to deal with on a bigger lift.

The steering spacer I used is 2 3/4" diameter, 23mm thick, 4 10mm holes on a 53mm PCD.

At 16mm BL I was still getting some rubbing on the front at certain front wheel turned positions. That's maybe because my AHC lift is only about 10mm and I'm running 285x75x18's and also still have the standard AHC T bars coping with a bumper and winch so it's not as stiff as it could be ... Main reason for bothering though is to lift the fuel tank which is getting a bit dented and give better clearance for the LPG cylinder that's going under the rear soon.

 

[wildsmith]

Lying underneath looking up and forwards to show radiator shroud mod:

AHC at N, showing gaps:

rear bumper was already lifted 16mm, sagging again:

Bumper mounts are slotted, I just lengthened the slots on the brackets and bumper:

Front done, rear still to do:

I only used the lower two mouting holes each side, the top was out of range, and then once it was mounted where I wanted it drilled new 3rd holes where there was space for it. I had to cut out the centre section of the bumper that would normaly be below the winch slot and I added a strap each side to tie into the winch plate. Extra bonus is a fairly decent view of the winch drum now

 

[moooooooo]

nice cruiser Jon!
i look forward to more pics!
cheers
peter

 

[wildsmith]

a month or two ago I decided to have another look at this and just lowered the radiator. It just took 2 longer L brackets for the lower mounts, 2 new holes for the upper mounts and a blanking plate to fill the new gap above the radiator. Turned out to be a very easy job which I'd put off because of plans to raise the engine & gearbox but that will be a while in the planning yet. So no shroud mod needed

 

[5Cruiser]

I finally installed my body lift. Thank you for this thread, I hope to contribute something of value.

I ordered two extra bolts for each side, and swapped bolts around. Basically what I learned from this thread.

My cargo area is gutted as I am working on a custom design. I also found the two bolts that WildSmith found, but they are not captive in the body on mine (1999 US LC). In order to help reference where these bolts are, here are my photos.

Looking at the back of the second row seats folded up

A little closer in

Here's one of them. A nut attached to a big washer

Here is the nut removed

There is a stud left sticking up through a big hole. There is no rubber material. This is not meant for downward pressure, but upward. It is only attached through one layer of body metal. I am sure it is just bending down in those rigs that have not removed them.

Here are photos from the underside

Back of the rig

Under the cargo area looking forward. Notice the rear diff at the bottom of the photo. The driver side bolt is in the top left of the photo

Here is the driver's side bolt. This is what it looks like untouched. I have not taken it out or done anything from the underside. I only took the nut off the top side.

Here is the passenger side bolt. This is the same as the photo that WildSmith posted already

I have yet to figure out how to lengthen these bolts. I barely finished the lift before having to call it a night.

I hope this helps the next guy down the line doing this lift. I am very happy with how it turned out. 3/4" is so subtle, but still makes a difference. Now I can start designing my sliders...a little higher...








....

 

[FullyLitLED]

Good writeup! Did you buy the body lift from spresso or did you make one yourself?

I finally installed my body lift. Thank you for this thread, I hope to contribute something of value.

I ordered two extra bolts for each side, and swapped bolts around. Basically what I learned from this thread.

My cargo area is gutted as I am working on a custom design. I also found the two bolts that WildSmith found, but they are not captive in the body on mine (1999 US LC). In order to help reference where these bolts are, here are my photos.

Looking at the back of the second row seats folded up

A little closer in

Here's one of them. A nut attached to a big washer

Here is the nut removed

There is a stud left sticking up through a big hole. There is no rubber material. This is not meant for downward pressure, but upward. It is only attached through one layer of body metal. I am sure it is just bending down in those rigs that have not removed them.

Here are photos from the underside

Back of the rig

Under the cargo area looking forward. Notice the rear diff at the bottom of the photo. The driver side bolt is in the top left of the photo

Here is the driver's side bolt. This is what it looks like untouched. I have not taken it out or done anything from the underside. I only took the nut off the top side.

Here is the passenger side bolt. This is the same as the photo that WildSmith posted already

I have yet to figure out how to lengthen these bolts. I barely finished the lift before having to call it a night.

I hope this helps the next guy down the line doing this lift. I am very happy with how it turned out. 3/4" is so subtle, but still makes a difference. Now I can start designing my sliders...a little higher...








....

 

[5Cruiser]

Thanks.

I went to a plastic supply shop in town and bought a piece. I cut approx 2" x 2" squares and drilled a hole in the middle. I trusted the advice of the plastic folks at the shop as to what type of plastic was best for my application.

 

[highonpottery]

Thanks.

I went to a plastic supply shop in town and bought a piece. I cut approx 2" x 2" squares and drilled a hole in the middle. I trusted the advice of the plastic folks at the shop as to what type of plastic was best for my application.

so, a 2" body lift then? any pics of the new stance?

 

[spressomon]

so, a 2" body lift then? any pics of the new stance?

Last sentence of his picture'd post states its a 3/4" body lift.

I wish somebody would do the 2" body lift and see if there's enough clearance for 37's. That would get us the ground clearance without having to crank the front end into unfriendly CV/steering angle territory.

 

[FullyLitLED]

I wish I could start designing the 2" body lift and see if there's enough clearance for 37's. That would get us the ground clearance without having to crank the front end into unfriendly CV/steering angle territory.

Isnt this what you meant

 

[spressomon]

Isnt this what you meant

I'm cooked.