Final result picturessss??!!
How's your 100 Series Body Lift?
- Thread starter Real
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stock back bumper will be angled downwards, and the front bumper will be stretched a widdle bit
ha thanks for stating the obvious louds! 
pics are always great though!!
pics are always great though!!
OK, here's the cruiser post lift; dirty and in the garage. 1/2" isn't much to see, except where the body gaps away from bumpers/sliders. Got the front ARB to adjust pretty close, but I left some gap so any bumper flex won't immediately ruin the fenders. Still need to try to move the sliders up, but pretty sure they're near their upper limit. Nothing to do with the rear bumper gap. Also added pic of the #6 BM.
Here's some pics of the bumper gaps
I'm getting ready to do a 25 or 30mm body lift to clear my 36x12.5 Simex ET II's and did a partial dry run a couple of days ago looking for issues and measuring the bolts. The lengths in the diagram are the thread length from the washer on the OEM bolts. If you use none OEM bolts you'd need to add 5mm to the lengths in the diagram to allow for the washer thickness assuming you press the OEM washers off and re-use them or use a similar washer. All of the OEM bolts had about 12mm of 'spare' thread showing when done up on mine. All of the OEM bolts have none threaded sections at the end, some more than others, so the actual bolt lengths are much longer but that shouldn't matter for working out what bolts you need. For my lift I'll use No. 2 OEM bolts in the 3,4 and 5 positions and none OEM 170mm long in the 1 & 2 positions. Hope this helps the achive
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A couple of my OEM bolts had big washers, but they were just round, no extra tab to keep it from spinning. I wouldn't be too concerned about not having it. The bolts aren't easy access, but you could still get a socket wrench on them without too much difficulty. I needed to do that on #2 PS. I was able to reach under the cruiser with the air gun while holding the socket. Others may need a second set of hands.
im thinking about going 3-4'' lift pro comp w/ 35 kim2 is that to big?
Reread the posts in this thread, esp. #14 and #20.
I can't find a torque spec for the body mount bolts in the FSM. What have you guys been using? The only thing I could see was for standard flange head No. 6 bolts @ 35ft lbs but that seems not very tight ... On the other hand doing them up super tight seems like it would negate having rubber bushings in the mountings 
I think I torqued mine to about 45 ft. lbs. I had one up front strip out because I was trying to go to 50 and it only had part of the threads engaged because of the lift.
I went for a 16mm BL a couple of weeks ago and rushed it in a couple of hours one afternoon, so today I planned to revisit it and make sure everything was ok. After searching the net earlier and finding values for other vehicles I decided to go with 35ft lbs and that turns out to feel pretty tight when I re-torqued all the bolts, but I used some thread lock as well just to be safe. I had a few positions where OEM bolts were long enough but the threaded section needed extending down the shank with a die to be able to tighten them up all the way.
extra body mounting bolts!
A week or so after I installed my body lift I had a creaking noise start, but only when one side of the car flexed, not over bumps. I was convinced I must have got the bolts torqued up wrong or something but doing them loose or tight made no difference to the noise. After a week or so of noise it started happening on some bumps and I crawled around ubder the truck looking for something stretched or held in a clip going from body to chassis and I finaly tracked down the cause - some extra body mount bolts
Just behind the second row seats under a plastic cover like the others I had an extra bolt each side going from the body to a captive nut on the chassis cross member under there. There are no rubber bushings on these bolts and they must have origionaly been sitting proud of the body for me to have been able to squeeze 16mm of lift but ended up pulled tight against the body so I'm wondering if it's some sort of factory assembly line aid they forgot to remove:
With these removed my noise is gone so I can stop worrying about the bodylift! Just need to plug the holes now to keep water out.
A week or so after I installed my body lift I had a creaking noise start, but only when one side of the car flexed, not over bumps. I was convinced I must have got the bolts torqued up wrong or something but doing them loose or tight made no difference to the noise. After a week or so of noise it started happening on some bumps and I crawled around ubder the truck looking for something stretched or held in a clip going from body to chassis and I finaly tracked down the cause - some extra body mount bolts
Just behind the second row seats under a plastic cover like the others I had an extra bolt each side going from the body to a captive nut on the chassis cross member under there. There are no rubber bushings on these bolts and they must have origionaly been sitting proud of the body for me to have been able to squeeze 16mm of lift but ended up pulled tight against the body so I'm wondering if it's some sort of factory assembly line aid they forgot to remove:
With these removed my noise is gone so I can stop worrying about the bodylift! Just need to plug the holes now to keep water out.
Sound like you had some fun. Glad you found the problem.
Is there a way to check for the bolts from the outside? I'd like to avoid pulling up the carpet, etc. If not, how far in from the outside of the body are the bolts? About the same as the others? Closer in the middle?
Thanks for the info.
Is there a way to check for the bolts from the outside? I'd like to avoid pulling up the carpet, etc. If not, how far in from the outside of the body are the bolts? About the same as the others? Closer in the middle?
Thanks for the info.
A picture of the bolts location would be great.
At some point in the next few days I'll have to plug the holes so I'll add a location picture then if I can.
I saw the bolts while crawling around underneath so yes they can be seen without lifting the carpet. If you look at the cross member that's roughly in-line with where the anti-roll bar mounts to the chassis, that's the reference point I used when then looking inside for them. On the inside, they're right under the join of the two carpets and about 25cm in from the wheel well. You should see a black plastic cap similar to the ones covering the other body mounts even if you don't have the bolts. Under those is a recess and then the bolts if you have them. If you don't have the bolts I'd be interested to know what you do have in that spot.
I came up with 25 or 30mm because that's how much I thought I could raise the OEM bumpers cleanly but I would have needed to lower the radiator or fan shroud and make a steering spacer as well. I ran out of time for that level of work just before a wheeling event so I cut the spacers down until I was comfortable with the fan to shroud gap and for me that is at 16mm. In an ideal world I'd still lower the fan shroud about 5mm but that shouldn't take much work. I'll probably stick at 16mm because there don't seem to be any interferance issues on my 36" Simex (I already did some minor panel trimming) but the origional plan is still an option if that changes with harder wheeling.
Here's a photo of one of the offending bolts. This is from the rear of the truck looking forwards, on the UK DS, just by the axle end of the upper control arm. Circled in red you can see the chassis cross member with a bracket on it with a captive nut and from that there's a stud going up into a hole in the body. In this picture the big washer and nut are missing to show the hole more clearly, otherwise you'd just see the underside of the washer.
I've lowered the radiator fan shroud about 8mm now as well and have much better fan clearance.
I've lowered the radiator fan shroud about 8mm now as well and have much better fan clearance.
Here's a photo of one of the offending bolts. This is from the rear of the truck looking forwards, on the UK DS, just by the axle end of the upper control arm. Circled in red you can see the chassis cross member with a bracket on it with a captive nut and from that there's a stud going up into a hole in the body. In this picture the big washer and nut are missing to show the hole more clearly, otherwise you'd just see the underside of the washer.
I've lowered the radiator fan shroud about 8mm now as well and have much better fan clearance.
Jon, Thanks for the photo and yes I have your offending bolts also. I say your offending bolts because without a body lift they are not offending.
I do agree that if one is doing a body lift they should and need to be removed. Good find on your part I wonder if others that have done a body lift removed them??
Can you post up on how you lowered your shroud?
Guess that means I'm not special after all thenJon, Thanks for the photo and yes I have your offending bolts also. I say your offending bolts because without a body lift they are not offending.
Strange that they don't show in the EPC or FSM ... When I did my BL I did struggle to get the body seperated enough from the chassis to squeeze my 16mm spacers in and now I know why.I can have a go but I didn't take pictures
The main thing I did was trim the tabs on the bottom of the shroud and the holders they fit into on the bottom of the radiator about 5mm each. I also removed the little rubber covers from those tabs at the bottom of the shroud and cut the ends off before refitting them. That dropped my shroud and then I slotted the tabs on the top of the shroud that bolt up to the radiator so they would still fit just about. There's one bolt half way down the side of the shroud that I had to leave out and one of the expansion bottle holes got a zip tie through it to hold it in place. Sounds a bit shaky but it's all very firm or I would have just removed the shroud completely (not going to be a problem with UK weather!).Today I finished modifying my OEM rear bumper so it sits properly instead of being down at the rear. I'll post something about that with some pictures tomorrow when I have a bit more time.