How's your 100 Series Body Lift?

[oldbull]

My TJM T3C front bumper is adjustable; I've adjusted it to minimize the gap...about 90% perfect . No way, within reason, to raise my Slee rear bumper. I'd like to do this because it'd get me a little more departure angle. You'd probably have to start either with a totally custom rear bumper or possibly go with the 4x4 Labs rear bumper kit and modify it accordingly.

Sliders...no real problem here. Again if you want to make yourself a custo set of sliders, as I did, you can tailor them to suit.

Do you know if the TJM T3 will fit on a 2005 lx470? I am about to install a body lift and I'm looking for a bumper to install. I noticed you said it's adjustable.

 

[spressomon]

Don't think so but no clue. Slee used to sell this bumper ... maybe they know?

 

[SierraWheeler]

Received a question from @pbreisch about my Druiser body lift install. I figure I may as well post up some of my learned experience in case it helps others.

No instructions were included with either of our Druiser kits. Had to learn through the posts here and on the go. Some tricky parts that I had to figure out on my own but overall not too bad. Will glaze over the easy parts and focus on what gave me trouble.

Installing the body lift was pretty straight forward:

Loosen radiator and let it hang so it can move freely when you start jacking up the body. There are a total of 12 body mount bolts. Loosen the 5 bolts on each side and remove the 2 over the rear axle (I missed these when I did mine). From here you will do one side at a time. Start on one side and remove the body mount bolts. Jack up the body and slide in the body lift spacers. I removed the bolt-side washer from the OEM bolts and transferred them to the new bolts because my kit didn't include washers. Slide in the new bolts with the washers, drop body, and loosely secure. Repeat on the other side. I could not re-install the 2 bolts over the rear axle after the lift... I understand this is OK because those 2 bolts are for NVH and do not actually hold the body onto the frame. No pictures because others have covered this part.

From here you move to the radiator brackets which was also pretty straight forward... just re-install with the new brackets. I did have to add a few washers to the upper bracket so that the bolts cleared the body. Doesn't change the angle of the radiator much at all.

For the steering spacer install, I went about it all wrong in the beginning and by the time I was done I figured out how I should have done it. I think this method is different from what others have done. Start by removing the inner fender liner. Back behind it you will find the steering shaft.

There is a collar with two bolts that holds it in place. Make some match marks on the collar. Remove the collar and the steering shaft can be moved up and down freely. This gives you enough wiggle room to install the metal steering spacer on the other side of the firewall.

You will also need to cut the firewall because the angle of the steering shaft has changed. I zip tied the steering spacer up out of the way which gave me tons of room to carve out the hole in the firewall. You need to shave off about 1/2" towards the bottom of the existing hole. Dremel with a tungsten carbide cutter bit did the trick nicely. Touched up with some spray paint to help with rust.

Hope this helps someone!

 

[YardPig]

Great info @SierraWheeler

 

[pbreisch]

Thanks so much! I have 10 total aluminum spacers, so is the consensus that nothing needs to be done with the bumpers at position 6?

And were the bolts you removed and didn't replace the "hidden mystery bolts"?

And it might be obvious once I get under the vehicle (I've never done a body lift before), but I figured safer to ask here... Do the spacers go on the frame or against the body?

Thanks again for the pics!

 

[SierraWheeler]

It will be pretty obvious where to stick the spacer once you jack up the body. Just slip it in the gap on top of the frame mount.

I forgot to remove the mystery bolts at first and tried jacking up the body. It lifted a little but not quite enough to get the spacers in. Oops!

Yes, the “mystery bolts” are at position 6 on that diagram. I removed these and did not replace them. Those bolts actually hold the body down from the top and the body panel underneath is not supported by the frame so you can’t just stick a spacer in. I’m sure you could find some longer bolts to replace them but it is not necessary.

 

[H E A V Y M E T A L]

I made my own body lift.

photo below, someone said that this rubber boot pulled through or got all crooked, I never had an issue with this and all my linkages are fine. and I never did anything to the steering. All I did was the body pucks made from aluminum and the radiator got lowered. I could go for a bracket for the lower radiator hose (its on the list to get done). Oh I did tear the mud flap cover in the wheel well. i just made new hole and got new plastic snaps for it.

 

[Mdej3]

Ok. I wanted to share my experience.

I bought the kit from Duiser with my fingers crossed.
Everything went excellent.
Shipped the same day and got it in my door in 3 days. I was amazed.

Instructions included. Hardware was good.
I would probably include washers also.

Installation took around 2 1/2 hours to me and my brother.
I did the radiator mounts while he was taking the trim out inside. Pretty smooth.
Make sure you have some spare trim clips just in case for your inner trim panels.

Trucks looks great and handles great also.
Only thing is that you have to make sure the stick is in P all the way in so you can remove key. No big deal. Already used to it.

Big advice. Change your heater T’s before doing this job. Mine snapped doing the test drive. Good luck i already bought them but didn’t replace before. Now i have new T’s also with the job.

The following pictures show the final results.
See the gap on the bumpers, i think nobody have posted a good picture showing on how much they stretch.

I run 295/75/18’s, Reindex front OEM TB’s, 1.25 wheel spacers and 2860 OME springs plus the 1” body lift all the way around.

Thank you for the help and advice guys!!

 

[Mdej3]

 

[DirtDawg]

Ok. I wanted to share my experience.

I bought the kit from Duiser with my fingers crossed.
Everything went excellent.
Shipped the same day and got it in my door in 3 days. I was amazed.

Instructions included. Hardware was good.
I would probably include washers also.

Installation took around 2 1/2 hours to me and my brother.
I did the radiator mounts while he was taking the trim out inside. Pretty smooth.
Make sure you have some spare trim clips just in case for your inner trim panels.

Trucks looks great and handles great also.
Only thing is that you have to make sure the stick is in P all the way in so you can remove key. No big deal. Already used to it.

Big advice. Change your heater T’s before doing this job. Mine snapped doing the test drive. Good luck i already bought them but didn’t replace before. Now i have new T’s also with the job.

The following pictures show the final results.
See the gap on the bumpers, i think nobody have posted a good picture showing on how much they stretch.

I run 295/75/18’s, Reindex front OEM TB’s, 1.25 wheel spacers and 2860 OME springs plus the 1” body lift all the way around.

Thank you for the help and advice guys!!


View attachment 1675335 View attachment 1675336 View attachment 1675337 View attachment 1675338 View attachment 1675339

You can fix the park issue by adjusting the transmission linkage underneath the car.

 

[spear2]

Question for you guys: M10x1.25 bolts are hard to find, can't I just replace with longer M10x1.5 bolts with new nuts? No M10x1.25 thread on the body right?

 

[scruffymofo93]

I installed a 2" kit on the weekend from Lux Lifts here in Australia, I'll post up some details once I get the steering and radiator mounts sorted. This thread helped me with that, thanks guys.

 

[slickdealmike]

I want to do a .5 inch bl on just the front so I can make room for the 295 70 18 stt pros and also even out the rake I have when not loaded down.

Can I get away with just doing the front or do I have to body lift the entire rig?

Also my sliders are welded on. Will that be an issue?

Thanks for the help.

 

[cmck]

I want to do a .5 inch bl on just the front so I can make room for the 295 70 18 stt pros and also even out the rake I have when not loaded down.

Can I get away with just doing the front or do I have to body lift the entire rig?

Also my sliders are welded on. Will that be an issue?

Thanks for the help.

I think you would end up bending your body. The body mounts support the weight of the body and everything you put inside. Don’t bend your body, there is no real fix for a bent body.

As far as the sliders, do they block the access to the bolts or pucks. I chose to slot 4 of my pucks and slide them in rather than take out the rear cargo drawer ec to lift the bolts out.

 

[Mikey2006LC]

Ok. I wanted to share my experience.

I bought the kit from Duiser with my fingers crossed.
Everything went excellent.
Shipped the same day and got it in my door in 3 days. I was amazed.

Instructions included. Hardware was good.
I would probably include washers also.

Installation took around 2 1/2 hours to me and my brother.
I did the radiator mounts while he was taking the trim out inside. Pretty smooth.
Make sure you have some spare trim clips just in case for your inner trim panels.

Trucks looks great and handles great also.
Only thing is that you have to make sure the stick is in P all the way in so you can remove key. No big deal. Already used to it.

Big advice. Change your heater T’s before doing this job. Mine snapped doing the test drive. Good luck i already bought them but didn’t replace before. Now i have new T’s also with the job.

The following pictures show the final results.
See the gap on the bumpers, i think nobody have posted a good picture showing on how much they stretch.

I run 295/75/18’s, Reindex front OEM TB’s, 1.25 wheel spacers and 2860 OME springs plus the 1” body lift all the way around.

Thank you for the help and advice guys!!


View attachment 1675335View attachment 1675336View attachment 1675337View attachment 1675338View attachment 1675339

What year is it? Did you re-gear 4.88?

 

[MTKID]

I want to do a .5 inch bl on just the front so I can make room for the 295 70 18 stt pros and also even out the rake I have when not loaded down.

Can I get away with just doing the front or do I have to body lift the entire rig?

Also my sliders are welded on. Will that be an issue?

Thanks for the help.

4crawler is a company that will make a custom body lift kit. They will require the dimensions of all the hardware but that’s conveniently posted above and then the distances between every body mount. No, you can’t put spacers in the front only, but people have done progressive thickness spacers to accomplish 1” to 2” or similar.

@TRAIL TAILOR is offering a .5” & 1” kit soon and may be able to be talked into doing something similar.

 

[slickdealmike]

I think you would end up bending your body. The body mounts support the weight of the body and everything you put inside. Don’t bend your body, there is no real fix for a bent body.

As far as the sliders, do they block the access to the bolts or pucks. I chose to slot 4 of my pucks and slide them in rather than take out the rear cargo drawer ec to lift the bolts out.

Thanks I'm not sure I will have to get under and look to see tonight. What size puck did you use?

 

[cmck]

Thanks I'm not sure I will have to get under and look to see tonight. What size puck did you use?

1/2 “ Thick and 2 5/8 OD

way easy using a lift (1st time ever)

 

[reznunt]

1/2 “ Thick and 2 5/8 OD
View attachment 1943938
way easy using a lift (1st time ever)View attachment 1943943

Sick workshop!

 

[cmck]

Sick workshop!

Yes, not mine, but I have a good “Toyota” friend and it has heated floors......