How's your 100 Series Body Lift?

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I think it was 26mm, been a while and I don't have the truck any more. Smaller than the BL because of the angle. For a smaller BL it might not be worth doing, I just wanted to point it out so others can be aware of it so you can satisfy yourselfs it's not a problem, or do something about it if it is :)
 
I took some pictures yesterday of said joint. I it does not look like it is under too much stress currently, looks like its main purpose is to dampen bump steer. I had some problems with you tube and have not been able to upload to video yet. But while turning the wheel it did not seem like it was flexing, it looked like it stayed the same. The black disc is rubber, the white posts are some sort of plastic and couldn't really tell how the were connected, and the other black plastic thing at the base looks to be a cover. Hopefully I will get that video posted. Layton, could you take a picture of this area on your truck?
IMG_0383.webp
 
That's the one, pretty sure the rubber part is flat without a BL. The white plastic parts engage with holes in the part under the cover which is the other half of the UJ but they are only bolted to the top part you can see in the picture. The more the rubber is flexed the further those drive lugs are out of the other half of the UJ. There are also 2 bolts through the rubber part into the other half of the UJ though so it seems like they share passing the turning force through the UJ. With a 40mm BL, without the spacer, the plastic lugs were in clear air.
 
SHAGGY101 said:
I took some pictures yesterday of said joint. I it does not look like it is under too much stress currently, looks like its main purpose is to dampen bump steer. I had some problems with you tube and have not been able to upload to video yet. But while turning the wheel it did not seem like it was flexing, it looked like it stayed the same. The black disc is rubber, the white posts are some sort of plastic and couldn't really tell how the were connected, and the other black plastic thing at the base looks to be a cover. Hopefully I will get that video posted. Layton, could you take a picture of this area on your truck?
Click to expand...


I just checked mine and it appears the same as your's Shaggy...no change/degradtation in ~18-months/24k miles with 1" BL.

Engine side: Probably 3/8"-1/2" or so clearance between lower edge of steering shaft and the edge of pass through hole on the firewall.

It certainly wouldn't hurt to install a spacer here OTOH I can't detect any detrimental effect with this part to date with my 1" BL.
 
Would the steering spacer need to be fabbed out of steel or could it also use the same material as the body lift pucks plus longer bolts?
Wildsmith, do you have a pic of where your spacer was placed? I'll try and get a pic of what mine looks like pre-body lift today, Shaggy.
 
Related: Be sure to periodically check all the body mount nuts for tightness especially with the 1" body lifts. I just checked mine and 1/2 of them needed to be tightened...
 
spressomon said:
Related: Be sure to periodically check all the body mount nuts for tightness especially with the 1" body lifts. I just checked mine and 1/2 of them needed to be tightened...
Click to expand...

Why not put some loctite or use a double nut?
 
OEM nuts = locking style nuts. The other longer bolts are nylock style locknuts. Thread sealant is good too; however I believe the loosening is from the slight compression of the HDPE.
 
I don't have any pictures, it just seemed clear what needed doing at the time and now I can't remember exactly what I did :doh:
 
:doh: electronic memory to the rescue, thanks :D
 
1" body lift is on.
When I went to drive the steering was very stiff.
The rubber disk on my steering is far more deformed than the one in the picture shaggy took. I tried to remove the bolt, but it seems like there is a nut behind the rubber that is now free spinning.

Wildsmith, any idea from looking at that pic what you removed and where the spacer went ?
 
I think there are nuts under the black cover which are a PITA to get at with the cover in place. I cut the cover off, it's just thin plastic, you might be able to undo stuff to avoid cutting, I'm not always very patient with these things :rolleyes: My spacer was an extension of the hidden side of that joint, so 2 of the holes were for the bolts through the rubber part into the lower part of the bracket, and the other 2 holes were a little over sized for those white posts to engage with. I'm assuming when you turn the wheel, the rubber stretches a touch till the white posts engage with the lower part of the joint and then all the force goes through those rather than the other two bolts.

Mine also touched where the shaft passes through the bulkhead at certain positions. The fix was to enlarge the hole. The hole is in a removable plate. Probably not your problem at 1" but worth mentioning.

If you disconnect the shaft to mess with spacers, don't forget to secure the steering wheel so it can't spin, that would damage the spiral cable assembly under the steering wheel if you let it turn too much. I put the seat belt through the wheel and click it into the belt buckle to make sure that doesn't happen.
 
Went to Roger Browns website as he discusses a lot about body lifts.
He recommends on the FJC and a few other platforms that have rack and pinion to loosen the connector on the engine bay side to allow the shaft to slide up slightly.
I was just about to cut off that bit of plastic as well, but i was just barely able to wedge a wrench under it enough to hold the nut in place.

I did this and it slid up maybe a 1/4" any the rubber disk was flat again and steering was back to normal.

I did trim the shroud rather than lower the radiator. The lower radiator brackets have a nut welded onto the bottom. So i would have had to remove both brackets, remove the nut, weld on a new one to the radiator mount and then bolt it all back up. I don't think it would be terribly hard work to do but i was just too tired. I think i may need to trim the shroud slightly more as i may be just barely touching.

Having a welder in order to reattach the special washers to a new bolt is very beneficial. I MIG welded the new nuts on.

Also, as to the bolts that are in the center of the body that have no bushing and pull downward with the large washer, i did just like the other posted did and used a new longer bolt and welded the wide washer to the bolt head.

For the rear "pucks" that simply sit on the cross member, i drilled out the upper portion of the puck enough to fit a bolt that then stuck out of the bottom by about 1/2". Then i placed some epoxy on the bottom and then slid it into place and the bottom of the bolt slides into a hole in that crossmember to keep it located there. I don't see any way for that thing to be able to pop out.

Front bumper alignment is still off. When i have some time i will remove the front bumper and see how much i can raise it.
 
Layonnn said:
Went to Roger Browns website as he discusses a lot about body lifts.
He recommends on the FJC and a few other platforms that have rack and pinion to loosen the connector on the engine bay side to allow the shaft to slide up slightly.
I was just about to cut off that bit of plastic as well, but i was just barely able to wedge a wrench under it enough to hold the nut in place.

I did this and it slid up maybe a 1/4" any the rubber disk was flat again and steering was back to normal.
Click to expand...

can you explain this part a little more? I think my steering feels a little stiffer after getting 1" BL done. Did you actually loosen then retighten something? Thanks for the help.
 
What did the trick, loosening the splined connector or those plastic things? Pictures would be great also.
 
bluecruiser said:
can you explain this part a little more? I think my steering feels a little stiffer after getting 1" BL done. Did you actually loosen then retighten something? Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...

SHAGGY101 said:
What did the trick, loosening the splined connector or those plastic things? Pictures would be great also.
Click to expand...

Check this thread and it shows the slip joint. I have emailed Roger Brown to see if the one for the 4runnner/FJC fits the 100 series and he said he hasn't had anyone order one for a 100 series so he doesn't know. Well loosening the spline connector worked initially but it is now slightly stiff again. I'd rather not have the splines come out any more and reduce any possible strength in that slip joint.

Scroll down some and you can see the slip joint.
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/4x4-off-road-tech/79484-body-lift-install-w-pics.html

This is from an FJC but it looks like this


IMG_2205.jpg
 
Thanks for the info. So you just loosen those two bolts and that may let it settle a bit to adjust for the BL that was just installed? It seems to kind of work but now you feel the stiffness again? I am just trying to understand because I just installed the 1" BL , as well.

thanks
 
bluecruiser said:
Thanks for the info. So you just loosen those two bolts and that may let it settle a bit to adjust for the BL that was just installed? It seems to kind of work but now you feel the stiffness again? I am just trying to understand because I just installed the 1" BL , as well.

thanks
Click to expand...

On Browns website it says to loosen and allow it to wiggle out a little bit. He suggests doing this again after driving a little while. But i think that would allow the shaft to slide out more than i'd prefer, strength wise, so i am going to try and fit a shaft spacer inside the cab.
 
There's one on the rack side too...but I don't remember if there is any length adjustment to it or not.

Strange how each 100-Series apparently is somewhat unique, related to 1" BL, as I didn't have to do anything to mine and zero negative steering effect.
 
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