bluecruiser
SILVER Star
I'm wondering if some driving will settle out the resistance that I'm feeling...just lifted a 13 year old vehicle from the frame...I would assume some settling will naturally occur.... Thanks for your input, Layonn...
How's your 100 Series Body Lift?
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Definitely, haha.
So much so that i took my ruler and measure the body lift to make sure i wasn't crazy.
25mm exactly.
I lowered the radiator ~30mm. Fabricated a 1/2" steering shaft spacer out of HDPE. And raised my ARB bumper an inch.
I took some pictures of how i slightly modified the lower radiator brackets. I will upload them later, i am beat. Basically there are two L shaped brackets, one attaches to the radiator and one to the body.I took the one for the body that was on the bottom and then put it above (instead of below) the radiator mount. There is a weld nut on the bottom you need to remove. It is very easy to attach a nut to replace that one, plenty of room to get to it from below.
Steering shaft spacer. Took some measurements and just drilled and cut it out of HDPE. If it doesn't hold up, i'll order the aluminum one from Roger Brown. I still have some tweaking to do. I did have to cut the plastic/rubber booty in order to get to the bolts. But now i do have some engine noise coming through that hole so i will be ordering a new one. But i think i will have to weld something to the nuts in order to hold them in place as you cannot get a wrench behind that boot once it is in place. Note: this is not the rubber boot you can slide upwards to view the rag joint, it is the more firm, plastic feeling one.
To raise the ARB up, you have to cut the bracket slightly. Otherwise, it is not at all possible to raise. The cut was pretty minor. Coated everything in touch up paint.
Fixed my transmission linkage so that i don't have to push forward in park. This is VERY easy to do once i figured out what the heck to do ha. If you lay under the truck on the passenger side, look upwards at the cat. Past the cat you will see a long rod with attached to a bracket with a nut. Simply loosen this nut and you will see the rod move a little bit. Then just tighten the nut back up and that is all.
I took some pictures of how i slightly modified the lower radiator brackets. I will upload them later, i am beat. Basically there are two L shaped brackets, one attaches to the radiator and one to the body.I took the one for the body that was on the bottom and then put it above (instead of below) the radiator mount. There is a weld nut on the bottom you need to remove. It is very easy to attach a nut to replace that one, plenty of room to get to it from below.
Steering shaft spacer. Took some measurements and just drilled and cut it out of HDPE. If it doesn't hold up, i'll order the aluminum one from Roger Brown. I still have some tweaking to do. I did have to cut the plastic/rubber booty in order to get to the bolts. But now i do have some engine noise coming through that hole so i will be ordering a new one. But i think i will have to weld something to the nuts in order to hold them in place as you cannot get a wrench behind that boot once it is in place. Note: this is not the rubber boot you can slide upwards to view the rag joint, it is the more firm, plastic feeling one.
To raise the ARB up, you have to cut the bracket slightly. Otherwise, it is not at all possible to raise. The cut was pretty minor. Coated everything in touch up paint.
Fixed my transmission linkage so that i don't have to push forward in park. This is VERY easy to do once i figured out what the heck to do ha. If you lay under the truck on the passenger side, look upwards at the cat. Past the cat you will see a long rod with attached to a bracket with a nut. Simply loosen this nut and you will see the rod move a little bit. Then just tighten the nut back up and that is all.
Does anyone else that has a 1" body lift also have DT headers?
The collapsible part of the steering shaft (looks like a shock boot) is rubbing on the headers.
The collapsible part of the steering shaft (looks like a shock boot) is rubbing on the headers.
Original DT headers on mine and clearance between the plastic boot and the header...
Did the body lift today not hard at all, but like anything there has to be some unique problem. My key will not come out any ideas as to why this is happening possibly due to the body lift? key comes out when battery is disconnected.
without this could you get your key out?
It worked this morning after quickly adjusting the shift link
I saw that someone modified the rear bumper to accommodate the body lift as far as the gap goes but has anyone done the same to the front bumper.
wildsmith
SILVER Star
On my previous 100 I did 16mm first time around and modified the rear bumper. The front bumper flexed to fill the gap. I didn't do many miles like that before fitting an aftermarket front bumper so I didn't have to figure out a way to make it fit without stretching.
YardPig
SILVER Star
Consensus is trimming the lower shroud is easier then modifying the rad mounts?
I'm tempted to do this BL, I will have to figure out raising factory bumpers front and rear...
I'm tempted to do this BL, I will have to figure out raising factory bumpers front and rear...
This thread is pretty old, but I think the consensus is to probably just do it correctly and lower the radiator instead of cutting things up. You'll also need to add a steering spacer if you're going 1". If you have the Slee dual battery tray, check for any lines near there that may not be able to stretch 1". Also, check the brake line on the PS where it clips to the UCA. This is easily an 8+ hour job and it really helps to have 2 people. One raising the body and the other checking for snags.
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YardPig
SILVER Star
Thanks, just trying to keep it all in one thread after a search rather then start another.
Thank you for the input!
Thank you for the input!
Do you have a body lift on your rig?
Yes
I didn't realize you had one. Do you have any issues with the body lift and everything you've got on your rig. I think I have the same size tires as you but after lifting using the ahc lift I don't have any rubbing on or off-road so I never installed the body lift. It's sitting in the garage right now. I don't have any armpit though so I didn't know if that would affect it at all.
wildsmith
SILVER Star
I installed another 25mm body lift recently and was able to modify front and rear OEM bumpers to fit in the new position.
For the rear I drilled new holes in the main brackets 25mm lower, removed the metal section that runs along the bottom of the bumper and riveted some 25x50mm aluminium box section on to support the step part of the bumper. For the front I removed the metal section that runs along the bottom of the bumper, trimmed the mounting tabs and used strips of stainless steel to bridge from the tabs to the original mounting holes.
hey guys,I got some time today to work on the last parts of the body lift...the secret hidden bolts.
As I showed before, the top of the bolt ends in a torque drive pattern, a star. I had to figure out how to get the stud out, as I couldn't source a coupler to fit from the local Ace. Also, there's not enough room anyway for a coupler and extension stud with only a 3/4 lift.
So after three trips to Ace, I discovered the star pattern fits no common tool. I had to bite it with the visegrips and get it loose.
Here it is. The non-star pattern threaded end goes into a captive nut in the frame cross rail.
Here is the whole assembly, nut-washer and all
Here is what I did, I bought a 100 mm long (perfect length) M10 bolt with a 1.25 pitch. YOU NEED TWO OF THESE BOLTS IN YOUR 1/2" TO 1" BODY LIFT PARTS LIST! AND FOUR NUTS ALSO
I threaded the bolt all the way through the nut-washer and torqued it down snug so it is one piece. I then threaded two nuts up the bolt to a point where they are 3/4" longer than where the lip and end of the threads are on the factory stud. This is so the phony new stud will function like the old one and not vibrate loose. It's kind of weird, but in the end, it will function as designed by Toyota...for what ever reason.
These replacement studs are necessary for the body lift or else you are bending the bottom piece of sheet metal in your cargo area floor. These are not on the factory service manual diagrams shown thus far.
I ran out of time tonight to reinstall these. I will get them in and get photos from below tomorrow.
Remember, I have one set of body lift pucks I can sell to someone.
...
old post I know but great info. For the "secret bolts" no one seems to notice... what do they do? The body will flex and bottom out long before this large washer touches metal. so what is its purpose. if the body is flexing to the point these bolts touch the vehicle must be rolling or in a car crusher???
I also see the cab cushion bum stops, which seem like some safety flex thing??? what are these for as well?
and once you install a lift AND OR a body lift modifying these parts seems useless? do they help with floor flex where you might have passengers buckled in?
