How you would fix this (rain gutter rust) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter -MaTTi-
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I had some small places in my top similar to yours....... not being skilled with welder, I opted for cleaning out the rust (wire wheel but not blasting) and using some metal sheetrock patch along with JB weld epoxy - sand - paint..... looks good but time will tell of it’s durability!
Respectfully redneck here...... any rednecks in Finland?
Respectfully redneck here...... any rednecks in Finland?
- Thread starter
- #3
I could weld it, but it would not be perfect because of the fiberglass and othet stuff right behind. And very big job to remove the rivets and so on... Or maybe just partly, the front edge only, would it manage/bend enough?
Rednecks in Finland? Sure, a lot of them but with an other name.
Rednecks in Finland? Sure, a lot of them but with an other name.
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
Have you researched whether replacement lid metal can be sourced? I haven't needed to cross that bridge yet. I know there's a couple threads on replacing metal channel. Looks pretty simple if you have a quality rivet tool. I bet you could borrow someone's aircraft rivet gun.
My redneck fix would be: use a dremel cutting disc to grind the pitted metal. Obviously clean/scuff the entire drip rail assembly. Place tape underneath the formerly rusted sections. Lay down SEM Dual-mix self leveling sealer. Pull tape and sand underneath repaired area. Maybe feather some body putty if the repair area needs to blend in more.
My redneck fix would be: use a dremel cutting disc to grind the pitted metal. Obviously clean/scuff the entire drip rail assembly. Place tape underneath the formerly rusted sections. Lay down SEM Dual-mix self leveling sealer. Pull tape and sand underneath repaired area. Maybe feather some body putty if the repair area needs to blend in more.
Better take it off and Do a good repair. You will never get all the rust If you leave it on. It will only delay the inevitable.
I don’t know how long term the panel bond adhesive will last, I’m thinking a long time. I would cut out most of the worst metal, sandblast the rest and use the panel adhesive along with metal patches. Panel bond is waterproof and flexible.
Certainly worth a try and much easier than welding and removing the drip rail.
Certainly worth a try and much easier than welding and removing the drip rail.
If the truck is left outside, any repair short of replacement (or welding in new metal) will likely not last. If it's a garage queen in a dry climate, repairs can be more casual.
It will last fine, it has taken 40years to get where it is and you can bet it was abused for many of them as 40s were a working truck.
Neutralise it with some convertor and goop it up, she will outlast you.
Neutralise it with some convertor and goop it up, she will outlast you.
- Thread starter
- #10
Well, it’s easy to remove and fix later if needed again. So much other more important to do now (bare frame and tub in half on it without mounting bolts).
I think the reason for the rust is here, there is a cap between the rail edge and roof. I will seal the seam after the repair.
jim land
SILVER Star
Rust converter and jb weld work for me as a temporary fix 3 years ago 
Still look good, its my daily driver in rain , snow and salty road
Still look good, its my daily driver in rain , snow and salty road
Are you talking about the front metal that goes over the windshield area? If so and you want to replace the pieces, I could check on shipping to you and send the metal your way. Just an idea.
I always vote to do it right the first time.
I always vote to do it right the first time.
- Thread starter
- #13
That’s the one. Please, if you could. I’ll send you pm.
I am pretty sure you are talking about these. Two pieces that are welded together in the front. A little bit of work, but I redid the entire rain gutter and not as bad as I thought. The rivets are simple. They came to me free. Can pass them along if we work out shipping.
Duraglass bondo tesin its waterproof works well. I used it instead of bondo.
