dubdub20003
SILVER Star
Does anyone know the internal volume of the stock enclosure? I’d love to space it out and get an 8“ in there.
How to: Replacing OEM Subwoofer in 3rd Row (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mtnracer
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That JL w3 6" does what most older 8" subs could do, it's more than enough. Otherwise, just get whatever sub you want and build a box for it in the cargo area. The internal volume of factory box is way to0 small for an 8, plus all the spacers you'd have to add to get it mounted.
I just used screws to mount it to the enclosure. I think I put a little foam mat cut to size to seal it.
The second picture is the final result. The sub and everything is under the grill after trimming.
So I have the dual 4" in my 2000 LC...
Anyone replace their whole enclosure with the newer single woofer units?
I am wanting some better bass response but want to leave it looking as stock as possible.
I plan on removing the whole enclosure this weekend and looking it over to see what I might do with it.
Anyone replace their whole enclosure with the newer single woofer units?
I am wanting some better bass response but want to leave it looking as stock as possible.
I plan on removing the whole enclosure this weekend and looking it over to see what I might do with it.
@arkmm would you mind posting some more photos of how you got the oem cover to fit? I'm debating between ordering the same JL or a Kicker. I want to make it look as factory as possible but I'm worried the JL will stick out too far.
I've got a 02 LX470 with the Mark Levinson system.
After replacing the original subwoofer speaker with an 8ohm Visaton replacement, I still found myself unhappy with the results and wanted to install a sub that could offer a little more opmh.
I went with a 6in Bazooka tube SVC 8ohm unit. Incredibly easy install and I've been very happy with the sound.
However, when installing it, I tested the impedance of the system at the sub and it appeared to be around 13ohms. This matches with results from a few other LX owners that have posted here.
My question is - is a sub rated at 8ohms the correct impedance choice? It appears most LX owners in this thread (including me!) have installed 8ohm units (without at least short term issues reported), but at the same time it appears many have tested the system with results that point to needing a sub with an even higher impedance - maybe an 8ohm DVC unit wired for 16ohms.
Thanks for any help!
After replacing the original subwoofer speaker with an 8ohm Visaton replacement, I still found myself unhappy with the results and wanted to install a sub that could offer a little more opmh.
I went with a 6in Bazooka tube SVC 8ohm unit. Incredibly easy install and I've been very happy with the sound.
However, when installing it, I tested the impedance of the system at the sub and it appeared to be around 13ohms. This matches with results from a few other LX owners that have posted here.
My question is - is a sub rated at 8ohms the correct impedance choice? It appears most LX owners in this thread (including me!) have installed 8ohm units (without at least short term issues reported), but at the same time it appears many have tested the system with results that point to needing a sub with an even higher impedance - maybe an 8ohm DVC unit wired for 16ohms.
Thanks for any help!
According to the good people at Crutchfield, the ML sub is a 12 ohm speaker. I was assured that replacing it with an 8 ohm speaker would not cause a problem. Of course, if you are driving two 8 ohm speakers with the same channel, the amp would see an impedance of 4 ohm, and you could push the factory amp too hard and fry it.
Personally, I installed a 6" bazooka driver in the factory location, then added a 10" powered sub, JL Audio ACS110LG-TW1, with a separate volume knob, JL Audio DRC-205. Full discolsure: I replaced all my door speakers with Focal, and replaced the ML amp with a JL Audio VX700/5i. The DRC-205 also allows me to adjust the volume when using the stock radio, since I lost the volume control and steering wheel controls when I deleted the factory amp. Normally, I stream directly from my phone to a VAIS SL3 bluetooth module that plugs into the factory wiring and sits in my glove box.
Personally, I installed a 6" bazooka driver in the factory location, then added a 10" powered sub, JL Audio ACS110LG-TW1, with a separate volume knob, JL Audio DRC-205. Full discolsure: I replaced all my door speakers with Focal, and replaced the ML amp with a JL Audio VX700/5i. The DRC-205 also allows me to adjust the volume when using the stock radio, since I lost the volume control and steering wheel controls when I deleted the factory amp. Normally, I stream directly from my phone to a VAIS SL3 bluetooth module that plugs into the factory wiring and sits in my glove box.
You always want your speakers to match or have a higher impedance than your stereo system. Too low of an impedance will make frying your system an easy task if you push it too hard. A higher speaker impedance will not hurt your amp, but it will reduce the effective wattage. For example, my Quilter Interblock 45 solid state guitar amp (a class D solid state amp, like most subwoofer amps) is 45 Watts @ 4ohms, 33 watts @ 8ohms, and a mere 17 watts @ 16ohms. Now having a lower speaker resistance isn’t a guarantee that you’ll fry your amp, but it’s not a risk that I would ever take.
Edited to add that if you have two 8ohm speakers, then simply wire them in series to get 16ohms and you’ll be fine. You won’t lose but 10%-20% of your output wattage, but it will definitely be crisp and clean. You could also make a custom box with three 4ohm speakers in series and match perfectly. Of course wattage is only part of the equation. Two speakers will move twice the air, so while you will have a wattage drop, you might still get a volume increase if you’re going from one 12ohm speaker to two 8ohm speakers in series. Calculating that exactly is beyond what I can do in my head, but you get the idea.
Edited to add that if you have two 8ohm speakers, then simply wire them in series to get 16ohms and you’ll be fine. You won’t lose but 10%-20% of your output wattage, but it will definitely be crisp and clean. You could also make a custom box with three 4ohm speakers in series and match perfectly. Of course wattage is only part of the equation. Two speakers will move twice the air, so while you will have a wattage drop, you might still get a volume increase if you’re going from one 12ohm speaker to two 8ohm speakers in series. Calculating that exactly is beyond what I can do in my head, but you get the idea.
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Thanks @latetotheparty and @zcostilla
This is exactly the issue I'm trying to reconcile!
Crutchfield, undoubtedly an audio specialist, claims it is ok to use a subwoofer with lower impedance (8ohms) with the ML system that originally has a ~12ohm subwoofer. It would appear that many have gone this route without issue.
However, fundamental audio engineering rules state that the sub needs to be at 12 ohms or greater (for the ML system) to not hurt other audio equipment such as the ML amp. As mentioned by @zcostilla and many others here.
Perhaps using an 8ohm sub would likely not hurt the system, but using a sub (or series of subs) with an impedance of 12ohms or greater would be the safest choice with just a marginal decrease in sound quality.
@latetotheparty your setup sounds interesting - are you using the stock ML head unit?
This is exactly the issue I'm trying to reconcile!
Crutchfield, undoubtedly an audio specialist, claims it is ok to use a subwoofer with lower impedance (8ohms) with the ML system that originally has a ~12ohm subwoofer. It would appear that many have gone this route without issue.
However, fundamental audio engineering rules state that the sub needs to be at 12 ohms or greater (for the ML system) to not hurt other audio equipment such as the ML amp. As mentioned by @zcostilla and many others here.
Perhaps using an 8ohm sub would likely not hurt the system, but using a sub (or series of subs) with an impedance of 12ohms or greater would be the safest choice with just a marginal decrease in sound quality.
@latetotheparty your setup sounds interesting - are you using the stock ML head unit?
YezusLX
SILVER Star
For simplicity, I used a Bazooka dual 4-ohm replacement woofer. Plug and play a little more bottom end on a Nakamichi. Used it on a JBL as well no issues. About $49.95 if you can scare one up on the interwebs. I got the Nakamichi replacement at an audio shop locally that sells Bazooka tubes. Bazooka offers 2, 4, 8, DVC replacement 6 or 6.5" woofers.
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This is why I’m seriously considering bypassing the factory stereo altogether and wiring all new speakers in the door and sub to work with to this Bluetooth amp, which will be mounted in the armrest in place of the CD changer. Skar Audio RP-600.5 700 Watt Full-Range Class AB/D 5-Channel Car Amplifier https://a.co/d/aDpXJvE
ALL my speakers were blown when I bought my LX and I haven’t bothered to replace them yet, so this makes sense for my budget to do it all at once.
I know the ML system is closer to audiophile quality, but I don’t NEED that much quality when driving down washout gravel roads, and I I can live with the simplicity of using my iPhone for navigating, and connecting direct to the amp. I could even go so far as to getting a dedicated iPad with its own cellular connection and using handoff to take calls directly at the iPad, for a simplified hands free use. And no more worrying about blowing speakers, dealing with pin-out diagrams to do a Tesla-style touchscreen that may or may not last a year, or become a security risk when it stops getting Android updates.
Curious what everyone else’s thoughts are on going this route…
dubdub20003
SILVER Star
Don't overthink it... I mean, you can, but it is somewhat wasted energy, if you want to actually solve the problem and have sound again. There are lots of people telling you 8ohm will work and the amp will not shutdown on you. Seems like that is actionable intel.
I am using the stock ML head unit. Here are some pics to summarize my overhaul, minus the VAIS SL3 bluetooth module. I moved the navigation DVD player to the side, built a little shelf, and mounted the main amp/DSP under the passenger seat. I had to build a new input wiring harness for the amp for it to fit.
For the front door speakers, I installed a three way component set, and mounted the corssover in the door pockets. It was a tight fit, and I had to rotate the passenger door lock button 180 degrees to accommodate the midrange speaker.
I used the cigarette lighter hole for the DRC-205 controller. The larger, outer knob is programmed to control the volume to the self-powered sub. The little knob controls the volume of the main amp, and is also pre-programmed to control the head unit volume, which is aux-in into the amp. Push the little knob, and it toggles through the different tunings pre-programmed into the amp.
I have replaced the foam surround in a couple of speakers for a family member's LX470, using a kit I got online, and it was a lot less work that what I did to mine. So, that's also an option. That said, I'm very happy with my system (but I wouldn't want to do it again).
YezusLX
SILVER Star
I bet this sounds pretty freakin' sweet. Is that a Focal 3-way in the front doors or a two-way set? I have been itching to stick my Flax series in the doors.
It's three-way Focal Performance 165AS3 in the front doors and Focal ICU 100 in the back doors. After replacing all the speakers, I could hear the limitations of the ML factory amp and decided to go all-in with the JL Audio VX700/5i amp.
Even with 300 watts on the 6" bazooka in the stock location it was still missing something, so I added the JL Audio ACS110LG-TW1 self-powered sub. I usually don't turn it up past 3/4 to balance the system. Note: I installed threaded inserts into the back of the box and used a shelf bracket to anchor it. I'm thrilled with the results, but this was NOT a one-weekend project for me.
The easy solution is to install the Skar in parallel for 8 ohm mode. It sounds great. The Visaton mentioned previously isn’t a subwoofer I don’t think so it’ll sound lifeless.
I did also replace my front door 6.5’ speakers with DS-18 Pros, the originals are anemic in comparison.
https://a.co/d/eqNWIne
I did also replace my front door 6.5’ speakers with DS-18 Pros, the originals are anemic in comparison.
https://a.co/d/eqNWIne
Some pictures. The DS18 did require opening up the mount holes in the frame and bending down the outer metal. I unsoldered the stock connections and soldered them on. I did use tin snips to fold down the Mount points for an extra “stock-like” install as well as clipping off the nub on the OEM frame as shown.
Are you running stock setup elsewhere? Head unit, amp, etc
YezusLX
SILVER Star
Can I bug you for your wiring/ML bypass on the VX700/5i? Is this all high-level input from ML amp to VX or do you use the DSP with it? JL clean sweep? MS-8? Audison? I am curious if this is the same with the Nakamichi system. If memory serves the Nakamichi is still analog and not digital like ML amp. I am thinking may just use a standard metra harness for power, switch, and then high level into my alpine amps while running new wires while I have the interior removed for sound dampening. If not I am not opposed to switching to JL or Audison amps. As I may have an old XD700/5 laying around or sourcing an old BitOne from the mountain of crap in storage. Thanks in advance.
I can't speak to the Nakamichi system. On my ML, I removed the factory amp completely. The only stock wiring I used was the pre-amp outs from the ML head unit, which are just two channels (left and right), and the turn-on wire for the amp. The ML system is apparently crossed over at the amp, so the signal coming from the head unit is a complete pre-amp signal, to the best of my knowledge. I did not use a clean sweep, etc., though I did adjust the input gain of the VXi through the TUN software. My VXi has pre-outs and an output turn-on wire for my self-powered sub.
The ML head unit is plugged into pre-in of the VXi. The SL3 bluetooth works through the ML head unit. Here's a PDF of the wiring diagram, which I got from this forum (maybe even this thread - I don't remember)), and a close up of the amp wiring harness, which shows how to count the locations. FYI, the only way I could really make sense of the wiring diagram was to print all pages in color and tape them together.
If you want any details about the wiring harness I made for the VVXi, or anything else, just ask. The IH8 Mud people have been tremendously-helpful to me.
