Probably same for GX470
How to: Replacing OEM Subwoofer in 3rd Row
- Thread starter mtnracer
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Vehicle: 2006 LX470 Mark Levinson with 2 wire subwoofer setup.
Installed the Skar EVL-65 D4 today in the 8 ohm configuration as shown on post 279. Soldered the jumper from - to + then soldered the stock black to - and red to + and tested it tonight. Stock woofer was trashed the surround was disintegrated and I think the voice coil was on its last legs.
The Skar sounds fantastic! Everything else is 100% stock.
Installed the Skar EVL-65 D4 today in the 8 ohm configuration as shown on post 279. Soldered the jumper from - to + then soldered the stock black to - and red to + and tested it tonight. Stock woofer was trashed the surround was disintegrated and I think the voice coil was on its last legs.
The Skar sounds fantastic! Everything else is 100% stock.
Last edited:
I managed to fit the largest and lowest Fs 6.5" subwoofer I could find in the stock enclosure - JL Audio 6W3v3
I used two generic 6.5" speaker adaptors that I cut in half and glued together so that the subwoofer would clear the rear wall.
I will have to modify the grill on the trim piece so that it will fit back.
This thing is booming! It starts playing at 45Hz, measured at the driver seat and I am cutting it at 90Hz, so that it nicely compliments the door mid basses that start at ~80Hz. It's amazing! Now it gives so much more warmth and depth to songs that go that low.
I had to plug the bass reflex, as it is way too short for this speaker.
I used two generic 6.5" speaker adaptors that I cut in half and glued together so that the subwoofer would clear the rear wall.
I will have to modify the grill on the trim piece so that it will fit back.
This thing is booming! It starts playing at 45Hz, measured at the driver seat and I am cutting it at 90Hz, so that it nicely compliments the door mid basses that start at ~80Hz. It's amazing! Now it gives so much more warmth and depth to songs that go that low.
I had to plug the bass reflex, as it is way too short for this speaker.
Last edited:
Yeah for a 6" sub, this thing punches way above its weight.
Question here, apologies in advance as I'm not a car audio wiz...
@arkmm mentioned earlier to replace stock amp with 5 channel. I assume ohms still matter, and in my case I replaced all my speaks with 2ohm (including sub), so am I looking for a 2ohm amp as well?
Also - the 5 channel amp will allow for greater speaker control I believe. Does it improve sound quality, output, both?
@arkmm mentioned earlier to replace stock amp with 5 channel. I assume ohms still matter, and in my case I replaced all my speaks with 2ohm (including sub), so am I looking for a 2ohm amp as well?
Also - the 5 channel amp will allow for greater speaker control I believe. Does it improve sound quality, output, both?
Post another pic when you finish up the grill!
Couple questions.:
I noticed you have Pioneer on the sub box, what system is in your car? I've never seen that label before.
Do you have a link to the adapters you used?
What did you bond them in with?
Yes, something like this class D amp would work fine, it's stable at 2 ohm per channel. And yes, if you choose a head unit that has 3 way active crossovers built in (highs, mids, bass), then you can set the frequency range for each pair of outputs, in other words something like 2500 hz and up go to your tweeters, 2500hz down to 80hz goes do your woofers/mids in your doors, and 80hz on down goes to your sub. This assumes you're ok losing your rear speakers. If you want to keep them, you would have to use passive crossovers which is ok too just a different set up where the front pair of speakers (mid and tweeter) use a small box with the crossovers built in, you'd send a full frequency range signal from the H/U to the amp to that box, the box would divide the signal into high and low and that gets sent to the speakers. Then in the rear you'd probably use a pair of full range speakers, send a second set of full range signals to them, then you use your sub channel and send that to the sub, probably using the crossover on the amplifier or possibly one in the head unit. Most advanced head units have a pro mode ( active 3 way crossover) or a regular mode (sends full signals out) that you can choose between.
Last edited:
Yea I replaced all the speakers in the truck so the new amp was necessary. As far as improvements its hard to tell what made the biggest difference because I did everything all at the same time (head unit, tweeters, mids, sub, and amp). It all sounds great though.
If you figure out a good solution for covering this area please post it, I've been thinking about it for years but haven't really come up with anything that would look good.
this setup of yours, are you still running the factory amp?
I removed the fabric covering and cut out the plastic to fit around the sub and then put the fabric back on. It basically sits flush with the fabric now. I haven't had any issues yet.
Pic?
Pic please ?
It looks like in my late night rushing to finish everything I didnt take many pics.The first pic is the grill before I trimmed it. I disassembled the cover and removed the fabric and then mocked up where it needed to be trimmed and then I just trimmed and checked it until it fit. Then I glued the fabric back on over the plastic cover.
I just replaced my worn out and busted sub-woofer speaker and have a quick tip.
I was able to remove the subwoofer's enclosure "ribs" in less than 5 minutes using regular pliers.
Just grab the "rib" and turn. It will snap right off and leave a clean flat surface (not that it matters). If some break off too high, just use a razon blade (and proper PPE).
I have the ML (2) two wires setup and hooked up the Skar EVL-65 D4.
View attachment 2617178
View attachment 2617179
View attachment 2617180
View attachment 2617181
did you use something to space out the sub from the housing?
Further up he said he used two generic 6.5" speaker adapter plates cut in half I think. I used MDF rings glued together, same effect.
I used a MFD spacer I think it was 3/4". I had to trim chunks out to fit flush with the housing.
How did you bond or seal to the enclosure?
You were able to get the grill back into place like in the picture?
Love those woofers!
