Blue circle is correct.
How To: Replace your own steering rack (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter ENGINE er
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Thanks, man, but the move direction of the wrench in my picture is correct right? means the Jam nut is still a normal thread I just need to hold the blue cycle area and turn the jam nut in?
Yes, I believe you need to turn the wrench on the nut in the direction of the yellow arrow, clockwise. Once you get the pipe wrench on the blue circle area, i would slip a cheater bar over the handle of the wrench turning the nut. The handle of a floor jack would work nicely as a cheater pipe to slip of the handle and give you some leverage cracking that nut loose.
Since I have a new rack and TREs in hand, so in the worst case, could I just cut off the outer TREs then get the job done? (the blue area was rounded/strip during the alignment already, so have to have plan B) Thanks!
It is possible to loosen that nut the way you have the wrenches oriented in the picture, the problem is you need the wrench connected to the tire rod end to have a pipe or longer handle that hits the floor, or a raised jack so that when you go to turn the nut loose the floor/jack is holding that wrench tight, then you two hand the wrench turning the nut.
Thank you, I will try what you said, even with a torch ..., but I have a new grinder as backup, once I have to give up, I just cut this ass and move on...
You may also be able to remove the inner tie rod, hidden behind the rubber boot in the picture above, instead of cutting.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Yes, I left the passenger side outer TRE on...
Finally got this ass out...if I don't have the stuff I learn from this post I will never imagine how could get this done, big huge thanks to the contributors of this post!
And I found it almost impossible to push or pull the TREs by hand, so could we use piler to adjust the new rack? If so, should I tape the tooth of the piler? or to say is it safe to use piler without tape the tooth?(I tried on my old rack the piler without tape works more efficient)
Additionally, I don't think I can install back the new rack tonight, which means I would keep the engine with that 2 inches lift up overnight (with a pice of 2by4 inserted in the mount) so is this ok?
And I found it almost impossible to push or pull the TREs by hand, so could we use piler to adjust the new rack? If so, should I tape the tooth of the piler? or to say is it safe to use piler without tape the tooth?(I tried on my old rack the piler without tape works more efficient)
Additionally, I don't think I can install back the new rack tonight, which means I would keep the engine with that 2 inches lift up overnight (with a pice of 2by4 inserted in the mount) so is this ok?
Good job. Yes, OK to leave the engine lifted. I used a pair of small vise-grips to turn the input shaft on the new steering rack when I did mine. I cut a couple of small pieces of rubber fuel line hose and slipped those over the jaws. Used a paint pen to mark the input shaft. Before installing it....I turned the shaft both directions (as far as it would go) and counted the revolutions of the input shaft. That way I could simply bring it back to center after it was installed.
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Brilliant! thanks! Do you have a picture to show how much gap between the shaft column and rack after connect them together? or to say how much depth the rack input goes into the joint of the column shaft? I forgot to take a clear pic of that, I am so exhausted...
That 'gap' is dictated by the fit of the steering column shaft to the splined input shaft on the steering rack. If you look closely there is a 'groove' on the input shaft on the steering rack. The bolt that you removed from the coupler fits into that groove and prevents the coupler from moving up off the input shaft. So....you just need to connect the coupler far enough down on the input shaft of the steering rack that you can push the bolt back through the coupler. It will automatically be in the right place then.
About the "count revolutions", I just want to confirm what my understanding of you said.
You should mean, we turn the input shaft to left as far as possible, then we start to turn right and count, for example, if it took 4 whole turns (revolutions) to go to the very end of the right side, then means "2 turns/revolutions" would be the center position of the rack? And at that position(2 turns/revolutions), technically, the both sides length between the boot clamp and outer end of the inner TRE should be equal.
is this understanding right?
neilsen100
GOLD Star
I see that you already got an answer last night but thought I'd follow up for others who are reading through this. Ok to leave the engine lifted, I had mine lifted on the 2x4 for 3 weeks since I had the luxury of taking my time.
As for centering the steering rack, like you I was unable to move it by hand. Instead of turning the input shaft I chose to tap on each side of the rack with a soft headed dead blow mallet. I've found something like this LINK to be very useful. Alternatively I'd see no problem using a block of wood to protect the TRE ends. Small decisive taps helped me get it just right.
Exactly right Sir.
Hey man, I got my new rack wiggled into the position, thank you so much for your "Paint mark" idea, I believe I can easily center it again.
Do we really need to loosen the two bolts on the top of the shaft column for connecting the lower joint to the rack? or just like you said, rotate the rack a bit will be enough to connect to the column shaft joint?
I am asking this because I will try to connect them together tomorrow and my steering wheel was locked to the center very firm with a metal "wheel-break lock" and some Gloria tape. Then I think I would not touch the bolts on the top except it is required.
I didn't. Just rotate the steering rack until you can engage the splines. Its a bit of a juggling act....but it worked fine for me.
It came OUT...that way, so it will go back IN also.
I got the input shaft in place today and perfectly centered (sixth times a charm...). Like you said I can push back the bolt through the coupler now, then I have a stupid question...
will the tooth on the input shaft and the coupler inside automatically bite together very well after I torqued that bolt to 25flb? If that tooth / groves position did not match the I should NOT be able to connect them together and put back the bolt right?
I just worry about if there is any play or slipping when turn and driving... Thanks!
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Correct, the fact that you got the coupler to fit onto the input shaft of the steering rack is evidence the splines lined up properly. And yes, tightening the coupler will make the final fit of the two tight and secure.
However I would not be concerned about getting the 'torque' just right. It is nearly impossible to get a torque wrench up in that area....so just tighten it well by hand and call it a day.
