How To: Replace your own steering rack (2 Viewers)

[zhloea]

That sounds about like it!

I did not remove the steering shaft.

If you look back on my posts, it took me several days to deal with cutting the old line set off once I gave up.

You can do this!

I like to ask a lot of questions before I begin a project as well. You have been reading in here since mid-Feb, so you have some idea what you are getting into. Anything you may run into has probably been posted in here already.

As my old Stats teacher used to say "Nothing to it, but to do it!".

You can do it!

Yeah, I will order a return line for backup, thanks!

 

[zhloea]

That sounds about like it!

I did not remove the steering shaft.

If you look back on my posts, it took me several days to deal with cutting the old line set off once I gave up.

You can do this!

I like to ask a lot of questions before I begin a project as well. You have been reading in here since mid-Feb, so you have some idea what you are getting into. Anything you may run into has probably been posted in here already.

As my old Stats teacher used to say "Nothing to it, but to do it!".

You can do it!

And also, I remember you have to cut the line because you can not loosen it, so it was heavily rusted?

 

[PabloCruise]

And also, I remember you have to cut the line because you can not loosen it, so it was heavily rusted?

Did not look all that rusty: How To: Replace your own steering rack - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-replace-your-own-steering-rack.560104/page-10

 

[zhloea]

That sounds about like it!

I did not remove the steering shaft.

If you look back on my posts, it took me several days to deal with cutting the old line set off once I gave up.

You can do this!

I like to ask a lot of questions before I begin a project as well. You have been reading in here since mid-Feb, so you have some idea what you are getting into. Anything you may run into has probably been posted in here already.

As my old Stats teacher used to say "Nothing to it, but to do it!".

You can do it!

My rack will arrive next Wednesday, I become nervous now...

If we remove the intermittent shaft out then try to accurately adjust both lengths of the new rack inner TREs and install it. then, do we still need to count the turns of the old TREs and put on the new outer TREs using those turns? To me, it is a little confusing, for example, if my old rack did not be centered very well, then the outer TREs will definitely have different turns, so if I count it and apply the turns to the new correctly centered rack, how it could work?

 

[flintknapper]

My rack will arrive next Wednesday, I become nervous now...

If we remove the intermittent shaft out then try to accurately adjust both lengths of the new rack inner TREs and install it. then, do we still need to count the turns of the old TREs and put on the new outer TREs using those turns? To me, it is a little confusing, for example, if my old rack did not be centered very well, then the outer TREs will definitely have different turns, so if I count it and apply the turns to the new correctly centered rack, how it could work?

IF you've ordered a complete new rack, it should come with everything except the outer TRE's. I wouldn't 'count turns' but rather take measurements and return it to that point. The TRE's and position account for the 'toe in' of the front tires. You'll want to have that adjusted (with a front end alignment) when you are done for best results.

 

[PabloCruise]

My rack will arrive next Wednesday, I become nervous now...

If we remove the intermittent shaft out then try to accurately adjust both lengths of the new rack inner TREs and install it. then, do we still need to count the turns of the old TREs and put on the new outer TREs using those turns? To me, it is a little confusing, for example, if my old rack did not be centered very well, then the outer TREs will definitely have different turns, so if I count it and apply the turns to the new correctly centered rack, how it could work?

I think you have been nervous for a while!

Ha ha, I am kidding you. You will do fine!

You can measure your toe-in before you take anything apart by using a tape measure and measuring the distance across the front ties at the front and rear of the tires.

Disconnect and remove the old rack, install the rack, center the rack by measuring, and then install the outer TREs to get you close to the toe-in you measured.

Once you start the hands-on part, these words will all make sense.

 

[zhloea]

I think you have been nervous for a while!

Ha ha, I am kidding you. You will do fine!

You can measure your toe-in before you take anything apart by using a tape measure and measuring the distance across the front ties at the front and rear of the tires.

Disconnect and remove the old rack, install the rack, center the rack by measuring, and then install the outer TREs to get you close to the toe-in you measured.

Once you start the hands-on part, these words will all make sense.

Yeah~quite a while, and also the "repairment need list" is finally running to this point~I am kind of a "well-known" customer in my local dealer...

At least two of those part guys said to me something like that "wait a min, you just have one order this time?"

 

[zhloea]

IF you've ordered a complete new rack, it should come with everything except the outer TRE's. I wouldn't 'count turns' but rather take measurements and return it to that point. The TRE's and position account for the 'toe in' of the front tires. You'll want to have that adjusted (with a front end alignment) when you are done for best results.

I plan to centered my steering firstly, then measure my old rack, I don't think the rack has been changed so far, maybe the old one centered pretty well, if it is centered, then I will count the turns of the outer TREs, then I could apply those turns to the new TREs after done the rack change, that because I don't familiar with measure the toe-in you said...

 

[zhloea]

Just another experience to share. I was never able to 'slip' the column assembly up, there was never movement. I decoupled the steering column from the rack by sliding the rack forward.

For lifting the engine, I centered my floor jack, with a piece of wood, on the bell housing to lift. Since the passenger side it still bolted down, the engine tilts as it lifts. First time I had plenty of fun and concerning creaking sounds which I ultimately attributed to the exhaust system flexing and pinging. No damage was done.

Below, jack lifting engine
View attachment 2605957


Below, small 2x4 wedged into driver side engine mount as seen through front driver's wheel well
View attachment 2605958


One other comment about having the engine in this position. It gives significantly more access to the oil dip stick access point into the pan. I replace the o-ring before I lifted the engine but wish I had waited until it was up, would have saved me 20 minutes of fiddling.
View attachment 2605960

I saw you detached the torsion bar, is this a rack replacement required step? or you did this for something else?

 

[zhloea]

Read through this thread few times and went for it. Got it done over the weekend!

In regards to steering wheel not being centered. I did this too. I thought I had it centered when installing but after tightening up everything and went for a test drive, my steering wheel was at 10am stance when straight and with equal amount of turns to each way. Couldn’t live with this before heading over to a alignment shop. So, took the advice of loosing the two bolts on upper shaft near fire wall and this worked great for me. Maybe 1 hour of work to make adjustments and this is me taking it slow. I’m sure others are faster. Didn’t really understand this before getting into it so I took some pics.

Before I started, I jacked up the front wheels so I can move the steering wheel easier to turn and access the bolts. After accessing, I lowered the car and ensure the steering wheel was true straight (equal amount of turns).

1) take off bolt from steering rack and lower shaft (no pics cause you get this part)

2a) take off these two bolts
View attachment 2631141

2b) notice this washer bracket thing (not sure what the name is but this becomes loose and slides up and down the spline)View attachment 2631142

3) Push up the washer bracket

View attachment 2631143

4) Push up this piece up the spline. This will free up the steering shaft to pull out of the steering rack.

View attachment 2631144

couple things to mention. My LC is a southern car so no rust and my splines and joints had grease already in it. So, sliding these parts were easy. I didn’t have to loosen the rack or anything else. I just unscrewed 3 bolts from the shaft, pulled it out of the steering rack, repositioned it to make it true center. Just had to repositioned it couple times. I was dreading this and it was easier than I thought.

Now I think of it, I would have done this part from the beginning when replacing the rack because I couldn’t get the shaft off the original rack due to no spacing to pull it and had to muster it a lot.

hope this helps as this thread has helped me tremendously.

does these bolts need torque? or just make sure it hand tight enough when install back?

 

[zhloea]

Is there any O ring in these two connectors?

 

[flintknapper]

Is there any O ring in these two connectors?

View attachment 2648475

No, but one has a double 'crush washer' that should be replaced (don't reuse the old one).

 

[zhloea]

No, but one has a double 'crush washer' that should be replaced (don't reuse the old one).

View attachment 2648520

Thanks, man, I got two of those guys accidentally.

Did you reuse the return line when you replace your rack? So basically, if it comes off easily then I don't need to replace the return line, right? Mine is a California car, should come off very easily...

 

[flintknapper]

Thanks, man, I got two of those guys accidentally.

Did you reuse the return line when you replace your rack? So basically, if it comes off easily then I don't need to replace the return line, right? Mine is a California car, should come off very easily...

Yes Sir.

I was able to reuse mine. I didn't have any leaks in either of the lines. I had a replacement on hand just in case I buggered it up, but had no need to use it. My vehicle is a Texas truck for all its life....so rust free and removing fasteners or dealing with connections is not a problem. Yours should be similar.

 

[neilsen100]

I saw you detached the torsion bar, is this a rack replacement required step? or you did this for something else?

Not required but i refreshed all the rubber pieces of my front torsion bar at the same time

 

[zhloea]

This guy finally comes in, but there is some oil mark in the box? will this be an issue?

 

[flintknapper]

This guy finally comes in, but there is some oil mark in the box? will this be an issue?

No. You won't be using the box.

 

[zhloea]

No. You won't be using the box.

Thanks I will start to eat this tonight

 

[flintknapper]

Thanks I will start to eat this tonight

 

[zhloea]

Could please help me to check the direction for loosening the jam nut？ is the direction showed in the below picture correct? Or should I put the wrench on the blue cycle area and the jam nut?