How To: Replace your own steering rack (11 Viewers)

[Rolocado]

Is there anything with the motor mounts worth replacing while doing this job?

The mounts themselves if they've never been done

 

[mesa man]

Is there anything with the motor mounts worth replacing while doing this job?

Only if they are damaged would i replace them.

 

[petrotk40]

I'm seeing new OEM around $550, anyone know of a better deal than that? Will any of these reman shops buy the core from you if you don't buy reman from them?

 

[Ayune]

I've updated the step-by-step .pdf doc with items such as fan shroud & clock spring warnings, and updated torque values.

@tracknod, could you maybe remove the .pdf from post #273, or replace it with this latest version? Thanks!

 

[tracknod]

I've updated the step-by-step .pdf doc with items such as fan shroud & clock spring warnings, and updated torque values.

@tracknod, could you maybe remove the .pdf from post #273, or replace it with this latest version? Thanks!

Awesome... I updated the file with yours.

 

[petrotk40]

I had a shop replace the tie rod ends within the last year or two. Is it possible to replace the rack without separating ball joint from knuckle?

 

[Ayune]

I had a shop replace the tie rod ends within the last year or two. Is it possible to replace the rack without separating ball joint from knuckle?

Yea, just back off the TRE lock nuts and turn the threaded rack shafts (actually the “inner TREs”) to unthread the outer TREs. Your wheels will splay outward in the process. Be sure to document the TRE positions on the shafts before you start to get your alignment mostly correct when you reassemble things.

 

[Patassa]

Am I missing something or is Camel Back selling these with the inner tie rod ends for $530? I'm rebuilding my entire front suspension, was going to do inner tie rods, ( 2 costing over $400), noticed wet boots upon inspecting yesterday, and see the entire assembly is only a hundred more. Seems like the way to go, especially considering mine has a slow leak.

2002 Toyota Land Cruiser Parts - Camelback Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Parts - Free Shipping

 

[petrotk40]

I tackled this yesterday. I had to loosen the two steering column bolts near the firewall to get the coupling undone at the rack. Now I can’t remember if that washer it the top of the column was flush with the firewall or not. an inch or so of splines are showing and washer is not flush.

 

[Keowee]

I tackled this yesterday. I had to loosen the two steering column bolts near the firewall to get the coupling undone at the rack. Now I can’t remember if that washer it the top of the column was flush with the firewall or not. I can an inch or so of splines and washer is not flush.

That's the same as mine and it hasn't been loosened.

 

[Keowee]

That's the same as mine and it hasn't been loosened.

About an inch of spline showing.

 

[petrotk40]

Any suggestions on what to do with the old rack?

 

[l3n0x]

For a 2000 100 series with the old style (D-bushing rack) is the torque value of the 4 bolts of the rack 74 or 89 ft/lbs (100 vs 120Nm) ??

 

[Muddy J]

AWESOME!!!

I hate that you lifted the engine...because i have an engine hoist in my garage i could have easily done that as well.

ALSO!!! That little gasket that seals the adapter to the block to keep in oil failed this weekend!!! Not spectacular failure but enough escaped over 450 mile road trip and 2 days of hard wheeling to make things wet in there.

So i will be ordering this new gasket and replacing it this weekend. I think it can be done without too much hassle. and im going to use a little bit of silicone this time as well.

What’s the part number for this gasket? I’m going to attempt this job on the weekend

 

[mitchjohnson000]

Just ordered all the parts to do this job. I'm a bit intimidated by it because its the biggest job I have done on the LC. I noticed that the pdf says to use a ball joint puller to remove the TREs. I don't have a ball joint puller currently, should I just order one or can I build one using parts from the hardware store?

 

[brownfox]

You can rent one.

 

[mitchjohnson000]

You can rent one.

Ah, thanks. I'll do that.

I'll try to get some detailed photos of the install so they can be added to the PDFs text instructions. Hopefully I can get it done in a weekend...

 

[mitchjohnson000]

Just finished the job. I took some pictures that I'll post later. Surprisingly, the high pressure return came off really easy. By far the worst part was separating the TRE's from the knuckles. Passenger side required a lot of heat and about 30 hits with a hammer, drivers side wouldn't come off at all. So I went to the autoparts store to rent a puller, proceeded to break one of the pullers teeth. Took a trip to harbor freight and bought their TRE puller which did end up working after modifying it with a 25mm wrench. Taking off the TRE's took 50% of the total time for me.

 

[mitchjohnson000]

Bushings didn't look so hot after 250k miles...

 

[mitchjohnson000]

Also, it looks like the R&P is on sale for $312...I just paid $475
Edit: nvm....wrong part