How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics (2 Viewers)

[BirfMark]

I had fantastic luck using a Deckmate driver bit to remove the screws, along with tapping the bit in. I had a box of Deckmate screws laying around, and decided to give their proprietary driver a shot. Even after stripping out the head of one screw using a normal Phillips bit, the Deckmate one removed the screw without a problem. I know Home Depot carries the Deckmate line of fasteners - it's worth having a look there to see if you can find just a driver.

From here: Deck Mate

 

[Land Speeder]

I had fantastic luck using a Deckmate driver bit to remove the screws, along with tapping the bit in. I had a box of Deckmate screws laying around, and decided to give their proprietary driver a shot. Even after stripping out the head of one screw using a normal Phillips bit, the Deckmate one removed the screw without a problem. I know Home Depot carries the Deckmate line of fasteners - it's worth having a look there to see if you can find just a driver.

From here: Deck Mate

If you had the deckmates.... why would you ever try a standard bit? that makes no sense.

 

[BirfMark]

Though Deckmate screws can be driven with a regular Phillips driver, you can't necessarily drive a Phillips screw with a Deckmate driver. The square drive portion of the Deckmate driver simply doesn't fit most Phillips screws, so I didn't consider it as an option. It wasn't until my #3 Phillips bit stripped out the first oil-pump cover screw (even though I tapped it in with a hammer, as was suggested) that I went hunting for a better solution.

 

[azTony]

The parts are on order and I have to get my new lines for the power steering cooler decided upon and then I will be tackeling this job. I had just replaced my radiator about a month ago, I wish I knew what was leaking when I did that job. It would have been so much easier.

 

[azTony]

What is sylglide?

Beo,

If you recall, my pump cover went back on, un-lapped, with sylglide on the o ring, and over 2 years later it is still bone dry.

 

[landtank]

Napa sells it under theier name. It's a silicone O-ring lubricant used to help during install. You can also get small packets at the check out counter of most parts stores.

 

[madcardisease]

Did this job this morning. Took about 3 hr. with being in no hurry at all, and having a 4 yr. old helper. Having this write-up was BIG help, just having the tools list and problems to encounter before tackling the job really helped. My CS seal looked almost new, replaced it anyway, but my oil pump seal was completely toast. It was broken and brittle. I had to use a really small flat screwdriver to clean it out of the groove, which actually took a good bit of my time through this. Also the P.O. or some shadetree used a black silicone RTV and covered everything down there to try to stop the leak I suppose, had to spend quite a bit of time scraping that crap off too.

I ended up using the 14mm socket in the bell housing, it worked out perfect trying to do it yourself. The biggest PITA was the 4 nuts on the fan clutch, whoever put it on last time cranked the s*** out of them and they were way tight! I had to use a strap wrench around the pully to hold it still and get vice grips onto the nuts that I rounded out. Will have to replace those tomorrow.

Every thing went well thanks to this thread.............hmmmmm what to do next?

 

[arndog123]

I did the crank and oil pump seal last night on the LX. The oil pump seal wasn't leaking but decided to change it out just because. I'm glad I did because the seal broke into a couple pieces when I took it off the pump.

 

[Blue Bomber]

I have seen questions asked about the 7 screws and it was reported as M6x12 and then another post asking if it was M6 x 1.0 12mm long but there was no answer. I am getting ready to dive into this job and would like to replace mine with torx head screws. Anyone know the exact threads on these screws?
Thanks
Tony

So are these the screws? Scouring of local h/w stores came up dry yesterday. TIA

15.7991.06.12.11 DIN 7991 M6 X 12 FLAT HD SKT CAPSCREW - 18-8 S/S

 

[crowdaddy911]

Changed oil pump seal this weekend. Brutal to say the least. The seal was brittle and broke into ten pieces after removal. Its been leaking really bad for a while and had to get this done but didnt realize that the seven phillips were going to be all stripped. Took out the radiator because I didnt read this thread prior to install. There are no leaks now and there is new green juice in radiator. I did get a bit of a heavy white smoke after the install it seems to have calm down a bit. Anyone know what that could be from??

 

[94SRUNNER]

Just wondering what type of torque wrench you guys used to torque the crank bolt back in?

Thanks

 

[concretejungle]

Just wondering what type of torque wrench you guys used to torque the crank bolt back in?

Thanks

going by memory here so......

I think some are using the starter to "bump" the crank back on and calling it good, some are using a long breaker bar to get it "ubber tight" and some are borrowing or renting the torque wrench from local part/tool stores or a friend mechanic.

 

[arndog123]

You need a torque wrench that's rated for 300+ ft/lbs because the bolt needs to be torque at 305 ft/lbs, IIRC.

 

[landtank]

Bumping the crank is a good method in removing the bolt but it's going the wrong way to tighten one.

I bought a click set just for this process. It's a 3/4" drive and one big unit.

 

[mmm635]

Just wondering what type of torque wrench you guys used to torque the crank bolt back in?

Thanks

I used an impact wrench to get the bolt off. Then I used my 300 ft/lb torque wrench you can by at Harbor Freight for $80 along with the chain bolted to the crank - it will do the job just fine.

 

[crowdaddy911]

My seal three days later bone dry and no more oil puddles in my driveway. Its a good day

 

[concretejungle]

Bumping the crank is a good method in removing the bolt but it's going the wrong way to tighten one.

oh yea... haha :whoops:

 

[BirfMark]

Can someone explain why the correct torque is so critical on this ginormous bolt?

When I tightened the one on my 93, I didn't use a torque wrench of any sort to tighten it back up. I paid attention when I undid it though (breaker bar w/ a cheater pipe). When I tightened it, I gave it my best guess as to what was "a little bit more than it took to undo it".

I just don't see where it's going to hurt if it's at 290ft/lbs, or 320ft/lbs. I've been running it for 2-1/2 months this way now, with no ill effects (knock on wood).

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Just wondering what type of torque wrench you guys used to torque the crank bolt back in?

Thanks

Northern Took has a 30mm nut 3/4in drive impact socket that is shallow enough to get it there with out removing radiator. (If you have a supercharger, the nut is 32mm 3/4in. drive)

Harbor freight has a 300 ft/lbs torque wrench but the nut should be torqued to 304 ft. lbs. You can ball park it with this by using a breaker bar to torque it down just a bit more. I used a 1,000 ft/lbs bar since I broke two lesser breaker bars getting the nut off.

You will need a chain plier (looks like vise grip with chain also avail. at Harbor Freight) to wrap around the crank pulley (use a bicycle intertube to wrap pulley to avoid damage). Use a pipe around end of chain plier to brace against pavement or to lash to frame rail with a tie down strap. The frame has holes on either side to place the strap hooks.

Or you can buy the Crank Pulley Holder. It's Toyota Special Sevice tool that mounts to the two threaded holes on the crank pulley. I

 

[nuclearlemon]

just getting ready to put the belts back on mine now after doing this. borrowed a torque wrench from one of the techs at work (i work at a semi truck dealer), but no one working had one that went higher than 250. now i know toyotas are a bit more precise than most engines, but just how precise does the crank bolt have to be? most torque specs that high are +/- 20-50 ft lbs.

i took it to 250 in increments and it was barely budging. then i got my breaker bar and figured i'd go a touch more. i couldn't budge it...i even tried using my foot. getting to 250 was "easy" compared to going a touch more. i've heard that if not tight enough, oil pressure and steering are affected, but is it a drastic effect? will the oil pressure gauge not even be close? or will it just be a bit lower? will i not be able to turn the steering wheel without serious muscle? or will it just be a touch difficult? is there a stop for the balancer? what would happen if one went too far?

anyways, thanks to zane for this awesome writeup. worst part of the job was cleaning up all the crap, thanks to his instruction.