very nice job,now I know where the oil leaks on mine.Thank you for the very nice step by step post w/pic 
How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter Zane
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very nice job,now I know where the oil leaks on mine.Thank you for the very nice step by step post w/pic 
That is correct!
Maybe. Check both. I did my D-Oring thinking it was the problem. What I found was that it was a problem. Oil pump O-ring replacement is on tap tomorrow.
NaterGator
On Gilligan's Island
Same, both were (oil pump still is) a problem for me as well, but the dist o-ring was probably 90% of the leaking.
jditom, if that is bad to you then by god don't look at mine
There was a layer of dirt and oil probably 1/8" thick on everything below the dizzy all the way to the bottom of the motor
jditom, if that is bad to you then by god don't look at mine
There was a layer of dirt and oil probably 1/8" thick on everything below the dizzy all the way to the bottom of the motor
It was my oil pump
Same, both were (oil pump still is) a problem for me as well, but the dist o-ring was probably 90% of the leaking.
jditom, if that is bad to you then by god don't look at mine
There was a layer of dirt and oil probably 1/8" thick on everything below the dizzy all the way to the bottom of the motor
I think all the rain up here in Oregon helps keep my engine cleaner
And I clean my engine 2X/year as I drive through mud more than I should
If you put your rotor back in the same location and you notch your distributer bolt or bracket you will not have to mess with the crank. See above!
Part of the FSM procedure for the dizzy o-ring replacement is to turn the engine by hand to TDC. To that you have to put a wrench on the crankshaft bolt. FSM says to always turn crank in clockwise direction which is the normal direction the motor turns.
some more pictures
finally got around to fixing my oil pump leak. i added a few pictures that may (or may not) help the next person who wants to tackle it.
i had a good bit of grime in the head of the oil pump screws (even after i sprayed them with brake cleaner) so i used a pick to clean 'em out before i tried to seat the phillips bit. the chain wrench i got from sears was too small (i think it was 15" total length) so i got another one from napa (same size) that is supposed to be used with a 1/2" drive rachet. i just linked 'em together and it worked fine. had to get a neighbor to come over and help me hold one of the wrenches (couldn't talk my wife into it...), but other than that, it was uneventful.
i did notice that the oil pump cover had a little wear/sheen on the outboard side that i assumed (read "hoped") was normal (see pic). i also noted some wear on what looks like some rubber gasket-looking material on the inside part of the crank pulley that had some wear on it (again, hope that's normal).
anyway, i always like to see pictures of jobs like this, so the more the merrier. not to mention, an ego-boost for having accomplished this w/o tearing something up (yet).
finally got around to fixing my oil pump leak. i added a few pictures that may (or may not) help the next person who wants to tackle it.
i had a good bit of grime in the head of the oil pump screws (even after i sprayed them with brake cleaner) so i used a pick to clean 'em out before i tried to seat the phillips bit. the chain wrench i got from sears was too small (i think it was 15" total length) so i got another one from napa (same size) that is supposed to be used with a 1/2" drive rachet. i just linked 'em together and it worked fine. had to get a neighbor to come over and help me hold one of the wrenches (couldn't talk my wife into it...), but other than that, it was uneventful.
i did notice that the oil pump cover had a little wear/sheen on the outboard side that i assumed (read "hoped") was normal (see pic). i also noted some wear on what looks like some rubber gasket-looking material on the inside part of the crank pulley that had some wear on it (again, hope that's normal).
anyway, i always like to see pictures of jobs like this, so the more the merrier. not to mention, an ego-boost for having accomplished this w/o tearing something up (yet).
I performed this job over the weekend (both crank seal and oil pump cover seal). I wanted to say thanks to those who contributed tips to this thread. I had to drill out the heads of three of the oil pump cover screws, even after tapping with the #3 phillips bit. I had new screws on hand from Mr. T, but decided to use flathead allen screws after getting pissed at the original OEM screws. The torx head screws suggested by Landtank earlier in this thread would be ideal. I had no luck locating any, so I defaulted to the allen heads. I lapped the oil pump cover with 1000 and 1500 grit, and used a little FIPG sealant on the new seal and cover. New belts and idler pulley completed the job. OEM belts are so much quieter than the aftermarket belts.
My tech contribution to this thread is to further spread the advice of Sumotoy (from another thread) when torquing the crank bolt: IH8MUD Forums - View Single Post - Easy Way to Tighten Crankshaft Bolt!
"I removed the rubber plug to access the torque converter bolts. Then used a 12mm socket and locked a torque converter bolt against the side of the torque converter access window to prevent engine rotation. No problem torquing to spec. - ST"
Further explaination and reasoning here: IH8MUD Forums - View Single Post - Easy Way to Tighten Crankshaft Bolt!
"...The reason I went with the TC bolts locking is I figured those 12.9 torque converter bolt heads already socked down, by definition, have a really high resistance to sheer load. - ST"
This method was so easy. No drama whatsoever. I've seen the discussions of using all sorts of strap wrenches, chains, homemade SST's, etc, etc to hold the crank while setting the torque on the bolt. I simply popped out the rubber plug, felt inside the torque converter for the nearest bolt head, placed a deepwell metric socket on it leaving it protruding from the housing inspection window. As you slowly turn the crank bolt with the torque wrech, the deepwell socket will rotate with the torque converter until it jams against the one side of the inspection window. You can then torque the crank bolt to spec. and then reverse direction just enough to un-jam & free the deepwell socket. Remove socket, replace rubber plug. Done.
My tech contribution to this thread is to further spread the advice of Sumotoy (from another thread) when torquing the crank bolt: IH8MUD Forums - View Single Post - Easy Way to Tighten Crankshaft Bolt!
"I removed the rubber plug to access the torque converter bolts. Then used a 12mm socket and locked a torque converter bolt against the side of the torque converter access window to prevent engine rotation. No problem torquing to spec. - ST"
Further explaination and reasoning here: IH8MUD Forums - View Single Post - Easy Way to Tighten Crankshaft Bolt!
"...The reason I went with the TC bolts locking is I figured those 12.9 torque converter bolt heads already socked down, by definition, have a really high resistance to sheer load. - ST"
This method was so easy. No drama whatsoever. I've seen the discussions of using all sorts of strap wrenches, chains, homemade SST's, etc, etc to hold the crank while setting the torque on the bolt. I simply popped out the rubber plug, felt inside the torque converter for the nearest bolt head, placed a deepwell metric socket on it leaving it protruding from the housing inspection window. As you slowly turn the crank bolt with the torque wrech, the deepwell socket will rotate with the torque converter until it jams against the one side of the inspection window. You can then torque the crank bolt to spec. and then reverse direction just enough to un-jam & free the deepwell socket. Remove socket, replace rubber plug. Done.
agomez
Frijoles
excellent work I used the chain method with bolts mounted to the crank the chain really stretched to get the torque needed your way sounds so much easier...
"I removed the rubber plug to access the torque converter bolts. Then used a 12mm socket and locked a torque converter bolt against the side of the torque converter access window to prevent engine rotation. No problem torquing to spec. - ST"
Where is this rubber plug located?
Where is this rubber plug located?
Crawl under your truck until you are directly under the drain plug in the oil pan. The rubber plug is directly to the rear of the oil pan and faces the front of the truck. It is roughly a rectangular shape and about 2" x 4" IIRC. I'm at work and can't go snap a picture, but there's a good view of it in the second picture down in this post: IH8MUD Forums - View Single Post - tranny or engine oil leak -PIC-
The plug is just below center in the picture, and is black rubber. It fills an inspection window into the bellhousing.
I used a small screwdriver under the bottom edge of the rubber plug to pop it out. There are two tabs on the bottom edge that sort of latch it, but you really can't see them until it pops out. It came out with no force required. To re-install the plug, engage the top edge first and then swing in the bottom edge while engaging the two tabs. The tabs are rubber (flexible) and need a little care to engage properly.
The plug is just below center in the picture, and is black rubber. It fills an inspection window into the bellhousing.
I used a small screwdriver under the bottom edge of the rubber plug to pop it out. There are two tabs on the bottom edge that sort of latch it, but you really can't see them until it pops out. It came out with no force required. To re-install the plug, engage the top edge first and then swing in the bottom edge while engaging the two tabs. The tabs are rubber (flexible) and need a little care to engage properly.
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Thanks, so is it that square shaped window sitting south of the drain plug in the second picture? Thanks for the in depth description.
Hey Rick, do you remember the thread pitch on these? I'm guessing it's M6x1.0 (and 12mm long?), but wanted to check before buying the wrong ones. Thanks.
