Great write up, did it Today along with the distributor o ring and this made it so easy....who needs a FSM when you have a great people like this. THANKS Again for a Great write up. 
How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Zane
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Noob question.
Hi all, pardon my ignorance as complete noob. I Have just purchased an aussie 88 Sahara 12h-t. Flew from Perth with wife and 3 small kids to Sydney bought it and drove it back via Melbourne @ 6000km. Immaculate 4x4, seriously like new albeit with 400k on the clock. However, I compulsively checked oil and coolant on the way home finding that I went through about 5 litres of oil, keeping it within the scored level on dipstick. I think there is a front main seal leak. Consistent drip from bottom of crankcase pulley with oil flick around it. Question is, will this procedure be the same for my engine?
Hi all, pardon my ignorance as complete noob. I Have just purchased an aussie 88 Sahara 12h-t. Flew from Perth with wife and 3 small kids to Sydney bought it and drove it back via Melbourne @ 6000km. Immaculate 4x4, seriously like new albeit with 400k on the clock. However, I compulsively checked oil and coolant on the way home finding that I went through about 5 litres of oil, keeping it within the scored level on dipstick. I think there is a front main seal leak. Consistent drip from bottom of crankcase pulley with oil flick around it. Question is, will this procedure be the same for my engine?
OK gang,
I am getting ready to do the job above. I have all the tools and parts are ordered.
I am a little nervous about step 4 below. Tell me what I can do wrong now so I don't mess up? Thanks for you collective wisdom. Should I put PB blaster on the bolt or anything?
Step Four: Remove crank shaft pulley. Use ¾ inch 30mm socket w/ breaker bar placed under passenger side of frame. I used rock climbing webbing to hold the breaker bar under the passenger side of frame. You could use just about anything. Duck Tape, Rope, bungy, etc... Disconnect distributor lead. Then bump the starter and the bolt will break loose.
I am getting ready to do the job above. I have all the tools and parts are ordered.
I am a little nervous about step 4 below. Tell me what I can do wrong now so I don't mess up? Thanks for you collective wisdom. Should I put PB blaster on the bolt or anything?
Step Four: Remove crank shaft pulley. Use ¾ inch 30mm socket w/ breaker bar placed under passenger side of frame. I used rock climbing webbing to hold the breaker bar under the passenger side of frame. You could use just about anything. Duck Tape, Rope, bungy, etc... Disconnect distributor lead. Then bump the starter and the bolt will break loose.
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
Hello...I just did this on Friday and these instructions are fantastic!
Step for is easier than it sounds. No PB Blaster needed! Just make sure you disconnect the wire from the coil.
Good luck!
Step for is easier than it sounds. No PB Blaster needed! Just make sure you disconnect the wire from the coil.
Good luck!
I have 3/4" breaker bar and and it is about 2.5 feet long. Enough to make contact with the frame on the passenger side (L hand drive). Duct tape or rachet strap in place and bump the starter with coil wire out.
Engine warm or cold? I assume cold?
Thanks
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
I had a shorter breaker bar and used a 2X4 my dad had in the garage and sort of rigged it. My engine was warm when I did it. It got the job done.
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
Nice work! Glad to see everything went the way it was supposed to.
Its nice when a project comes together.
Its nice when a project comes together.
Here is a pic of how to fix you crank via the torque converter bolt method mentioned above. It was so easy and a one person job. I used a 14mm deep socket, Craftman. I would not use a cheepo socket for this.
And of course the big wrench!
And of course the big wrench!
Beautiful engine bay. You can eat out of that one!
I need to take a picture of the tool I made to hold the crank shaft pulley in place. All it took was a piece of steel, a 1-1/2" hole saw, and a 3/8" drill bit iirc.
nice truck.
holding the crank in place is really no big deal. What I do is use a length of rope looped around the frame and then wrap it around the pulley so it tightens as you tighten the bolt. Just get some of that strong stuff at lowes/home depot and you're good to go.
Blue Bomber
SILVER Star
Good write up. Got started on it, but nuts holding on fan were tough. Made little jig to hold in place, but 2 nuts just fell stripped instantly. Damn. Put it back to fight another day. Not looking forward to water pump cover screws. Hex replacements already on hand.
scottm
SILVER Star
That reminds me, I forgot to send that tool with all the 80 stuff I sent to my brother Doug.
scottm
SILVER Star
What is sylglide?
Same as dielectric grease, which I use on O-rings, hoses, and electrical parts. Used to be expensive and only in tiny tubes, now it's pretty cheap and comes in bigger tubes.
Hi guys. I am hoping someone can give me some tips on how to get the crank bolt undone. I tried the starter motor trick last week but could not undo it. I knew the starter contacts were dodgy, so I replaced the contacts and plunger yesterday. I tried again today and I still couldn't move it using the starter technique. I know my primary battery is starting to fail, but I also have a dual battery system with a perfect auxiliary battery that I link with a switch, so plenty of current was flowing.
I then tried the trick of putting a socket on the torque converter and tried to undo the bolt with a breaker-bar. The socket on the torque converter eventually slipped off (14mm socket with a small extension bar - I don't have a 14mm deep socket). When the socket slipped I smashed my elbow into the ground, so there was a fair bit of pressure on it. I would like to avoid having to pull the radiator out if possible.
I have a leak and I am heading off into the Simpson Desert in central Australia in a few weeks, so I really need it done.
Thanks, Andrew.
I then tried the trick of putting a socket on the torque converter and tried to undo the bolt with a breaker-bar. The socket on the torque converter eventually slipped off (14mm socket with a small extension bar - I don't have a 14mm deep socket). When the socket slipped I smashed my elbow into the ground, so there was a fair bit of pressure on it. I would like to avoid having to pull the radiator out if possible.
I have a leak and I am heading off into the Simpson Desert in central Australia in a few weeks, so I really need it done.
Thanks, Andrew.
