How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics (1 Viewer)

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Did my oil pump cover o-ring today + crank seal

I finished my replacement today, thanks to Zane for starting this thread and also everyone who contributed tips too.


My engine was leaking slowly but in a stream from the oil pump cover.
I was able to remove the 7 screws without incident, I had cleaned the heads with a small pick, simple green and q-tips.
I dont know if it helped any but I heated the screw heads with a 40watt weller soldering iron for a few seconds before tapping in the phillips bit with the hammer. I tried 5 different bits before finding one that was just snug enough to insert by hand with some effort. my oring was brittle and cracked in 3 pcs when I removed it.

By far the hairiest part was getting the o-ring to stay in the groove. I was getting frustrated trying to install it carefully while the other side would fall out, finally put a few dabs of vaseline in about 4 spots of the groove to hold to oring in place. I used a tiny bead of Toyota black FIPG along the outside perimeter of the cover. I wasnt sure I installed the cover without disturbing the oring so I let it dry overnight. pried out the old crank seal with a big flat screwdriver with the shaft wrapped in electrical tape, then hammered the new one flush using the old seal and a soft faced mallet.

Cleaned the crank pulley with 1000 grit sandpaper to smooth out the surface that the seal rides on, then finished with a rubbing of steel wool.

lubed the seal inner lip and crank pulley with 30wt oil then snugged down the crank bolt and started the engine, no more leaking from the oil pump cover.

opened the inspection cover and wedged a small prybar in the flywheel hole and tightened the crank bolt down. My torque wrench only goes up to 250 so I torqued to 250 then tightened about 10 degrees more for good measure.

My distributor o-ring is next.


I found it easier to get the 2 main engine belts off and on by removing the fan clutch and removing the fan pulley off the waterpump, much easier getting the belts on too, put the belts on the crank pulley, alternator then slide the fan pulley into the belts then onto the 4 studs.
 
Any problems with only tightening to 250 ft. lbs plus 10 degrees for good measure. I may be faced with doing the same as I can not obtain a torque wrench that goes that high. I could by one for $470 at Northern Tool but... that's alot of coin. Maybe I'll just tighten to 250 as mentioned untill I can find a rental shop that has one that goes to 305 ft. lbs. No auto parts store in my arear has anything over 250 ft lbs. & being Sunday on a holiday weekend, no tool rental stores are open.
 
So far so good, oil pressure is excellent and power steering is working like a champ, I hear that if that bolt is not tightened enough these are the problems that crop up. good luck.
 
Chain Wrench

Thanks for the thread. I did one today on a '94. My saga was getting a chain wrench long enough to go all the way around the crank pulley. So here's how I did it. Sears sells a 15" chain pipe wrench for $26 that has a long bar with teeth on it . Its not long enough but is the right tool for the job. Then, Harbor Freight sells a 20" chain wrench that is supposed to be used on a ratchet for $6. It has the same chain on it. I bought both, stuck the HF chain in the vice, tapped out the pin on the link at the end of the chain and added it to the Craftsman chain. Perfect fit and worked great!!!.

Next is the PS pump and the dizzy o-ring.
 
Maybe silly question but did anybody attempted to replace oil pump cover seal with out removing crankshaft pulley?
 
the screws that hold the cover in place medially are behind the pulley, so there's no way to reach them to remove the cover w/o removing the pulley first. i'm sure if there were a way around removing the pulley, it would've been done and documented here.
 
So would this gasket be my culprit of major oil loss during long/hiway trips? Over the last 6 months since i've had this rig it's gotten worse, and is now slightly dripping in the driveway... however, initially, i was only losing oil while driving and nothing appeared to be leaking.
Who here thinks the gasket was pouring oil out while running a hiway temps?
 
i'm not sure if it has been "pouring" out but i'm sure that if a seal is leaking under gravity, the leak will definitely get worse when the oil is under pressure. the progression of your leak is what i experienced with mine. it will for sure get worse. i would go ahead and knock it out while the weather down here is still pretty good and not too cold.
 
So would this gasket be my culprit of major oil loss during long/hiway trips?

Define major oil loss.

If it is 1qt/500 to 1000 miles then yes.
If it is 1qt per mile then no. That much oil would be oil galley plug or something like that.

-B-
 
Define major oil loss.

If it is 1qt/500 to 1000 miles then yes.
If it is 1qt per mile then no. That much oil would be oil galley plug or something like that.

-B-

Before Hiway trips: check oil level and is good and full tank of gas... by 200 miles or so my oil level light comes on... I'm down 2 quarts....
This doesn't happen in town driving... 5 miles here - 5 miles there...
 
Sounds more serious to me than the oil pump seal and/or the front main seal. You need to post up pics showing where the leak is coming from. 1qt per 100 miles should be spurting oil everywhere.

-B-
 
Sounds more serious to me than the oil pump seal and/or the front main seal. You need to post up pics showing where the leak is coming from. 1qt per 100 miles should be spurting oil everywhere.

-B-

the only seriously wet area is the front right at the cover... I mean, the steering gear box is leaking and so is the front 3rd... but engine wise... only up front. I've had BAD rear mains before and never lost much if any oil from that... But the pump cover makes sense to me, since under pressure on long trips when the oil gets crazy hot it will pump it out... It only looses it on long trips, not in the driveway or no smoke...
 
The arrow shows the upper most wet part of the block... nothing wet above that...

oilleak.jpg
 
Eric, if that seal lets go completely your engine will be toast.

Parts/seals are here tomorrow and replacing on two 80's at the same time in an extremely nice shop with lifts and all the tools on Saturday...
 
nice job on the write up....another to add to my to-do list...
 
I have seen questions asked about the 7 screws and it was reported as M6x12 and then another post asking if it was M6 x 1.0 12mm long but there was no answer. I am getting ready to dive into this job and would like to replace mine with torx head screws. Anyone know the exact threads on these screws?
Thanks
Tony
 
it was reported as M6x12 and then another post asking if it was M6 x 1.0 12mm long but there was no answer.

That should do it. M6x1.0 in a 12mm length. I think the factory screws were closer to 13mm (the ones I bought were about 1mm shorter than the originals.)
screw.webp
 
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