How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics

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Feb 25, 2009
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shoot some liquid wrench on there and let it sit for a bit and give it another try with the breaker bar and socket.
How long is your breaker bar?
I would try to add 3-4 feet to that if possible then it will come loose.
 
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May 21, 2010
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Thanks Roger. The breaker bar is about 2 feet long. Even then I am getting a fair bit of flex on the bar. I put on some WD40 (I assume it is like liquid wrench) last weekend, but I will put some more on today. I may even try to get some heat onto it. Thanks for the reply. Andrew
 
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Well I have now broken one 2 foot breaker bar, bent one shorter breaker bar that had a pipe extension, and cracked one 14mm deep socket on the torque converter. I have also heated up the bolt head for a while and tried hitting it with a drift, all to no avail. I really don't want to pull the radiator to try and get an impact driver on to it. Any other ideas.
 
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Anybody have pics of the gears in the oil pump? I'm trying to re-assemble and need the correct orientation of the triangle shaped marking.......... TIA
 
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Thanks mmm635 ! That's the second pic I have seen with the gear marking facing outward. Must be the correct way.... BTW My Haynes manual says the torque on the oil pump bolts is 12ft.lbs. (I'm not sure if I trust that torque or not, I ended up doing it by hand. 12ft-lb seemed to me to feel like more than needed IMO.....
 
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mmm635

 
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Thanks mmm635 ! That's the second pic I have seen with the gear marking facing outward. Must be the correct way.... BTW My Haynes manual says the torque on the oil pump bolts is 12ft.lbs. (I'm not sure if I trust that torque or not, I ended up doing it by hand. 12ft-lb seemed to me to feel like more than needed IMO.....
No worries...that is exactly how I torqued mine down - by feel.

Also, that was the original seal on my oil pump (was in bad shape with a tear). So, that is the factory installed orientation for the gears in the pump.
 
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Hi guys, thanks for the tips. I ended up having to take the radiator out so I could get a rattle gun onto it. Even then the 1/2 inch SnapOn with over 600ft-lb of torque couldn't move it. It needed a 3/4 inch diesel truck driver to move it, so it was on way too tight. I also had to drill out one of the screws on the cover, so that ended up being much easier with the extra access. The Phillips heads were replaced with Allen-key/hex heads, but hopefully I wont be back in there for some time. Cheers, Andrew.
 
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I just opened my oil pump cover while the timing cover was out of the truck... I couldn't get the screws off even out of the truck on the workbench... tapped, impact screw driver, strip strip strip... unvelievable. I eneded up buying and using the Sears screw extraction kit and it worked way better than I thought it would. Came out in less time it took me screwing around with tapping all the screws the first time.

Anyways, I ended up buying 100 torx screws to replace the soft Toyotas and will be selling the balance in sets of 7 at the PHH website starting next week after I get them. I hope I don't have to do this again, but if I do I will be comfortable have the torx in there.
 
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Torx screws went in great... removing them again (in 100,000 miles I hope) will be a breeze. Selling the kits now at the site.

 
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Jun 4, 2005
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Charlottesville, VA
Replaced Oil pump seal and crank seal yesterday. All went according to plan thanks to this thread. Also, replaced distributor o-ring as well. Hopefully this will solve most of the minor oil leaks. Elapsed time was about 8 hours....but took it very slow, and was able to avoid stripping any of the soft oil pump cover screws. Spent a good hour just cleaning away old grime once I had good access to it. I also slapped on new belts while I was at it. Thanks to Zane and all others who have contributed to this thread!
 
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Replaced Oil pump seal and crank seal yesterday. All went according to plan thanks to this thread. Also, replaced distributor o-ring as well. Hopefully this will solve most of the minor oil leaks. Elapsed time was about 8 hours....but took it very slow, and was able to avoid stripping any of the soft oil pump cover screws. Spent a good hour just cleaning away old grime once I had good access to it. I also slapped on new belts while I was at it. Thanks to Zane and all others who have contributed to this thread!
I have to do the same thing in a week or so .. hopefully have as good luck as you :)
 
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Torx screws went in great... removing them again (in 100,000 miles I hope) will be a breeze. Selling the kits now at the site.
Sweet, now I don't have to search around for these at the hardware store. I will be ordering a set of these next week for sure.
 
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Hi guys, thanks for the tips. I ended up having to take the radiator out so I could get a rattle gun onto it. Even then the 1/2 inch SnapOn with over 600ft-lb of torque couldn't move it. It needed a 3/4 inch diesel truck driver to move it, so it was on way too tight. I also had to drill out one of the screws on the cover, so that ended up being much easier with the extra access. The Phillips heads were replaced with Allen-key/hex heads, but hopefully I wont be back in there for some time. Cheers, Andrew.
Andrew, this might be a silly question but did you have it jammed against the American passenger side or the OZ one when you first tried. You would have been overtightening it doing it the US way. Needed to be on the drivers side in OZ.

How'd the trip go?
 

tominboise

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I'm right on the verge of stripping out the pump cover screw heads. Before I go any further, would putting some heat to them (via heat gun) do any good to loosen things up?

I don't want to end up drilling the heads if I don't have to.

Tom
 

tominboise

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I'm right on the verge of stripping out the pump cover screw heads. Before I go any further, would putting some heat to them (via heat gun) do any good to loosen things up?

I don't want to end up drilling the heads if I don't have to.

Tom

Well, heat does work. I applied heat and was able to get 4 of the 7 out without too much drama. I now have 3 that are resisting me, but my next trick is to apply the heat, then try to shock them loose via a good hammer blow to the end of the ratchet. I will report back.....
 

tominboise

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Well, heat does work. I applied heat and was able to get 4 of the 7 out without too much drama. I now have 3 that are resisting me, but my next trick is to apply the heat, then try to shock them loose via a good hammer blow to the end of the ratchet. I will report back.....
Hammer trick didn't do it ....:frown: but a right angle drill motor and some scew extractor's did. Put it all back together and ran it. Looks like it mostly resealed - jury's still out. I need to do some cleaning under there and monitor the area. Next on the list is the distributor O-ring and replace the thermostat and all the hoses and coolant. Hopefully I won't have to open up the seal again....
 

tominboise

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So, next chapter in the saga, is that I did the work and put it back together and tonight drove it around several miles (~ 15). And, I still have a seep at the bottom of the oil pump seal when I went to look at it :bang:. I ran the screws in tight using a screw driver, then went back and tightened each screw with a 1/4" drive ratchet when I put it together. I was careful to make sure the seal was seated in the groove all the way around, and held in via some vaseline in a few places around it. I don't think I damaged it or crimped it out of the groove, but I must have, or it wouldn't be seeping.

So, what's the next step? Get another oil pump seal from the dealer, tear it back apart and replace it? When I replace it, should I put a little silicone on the perimeter outside of the Oring, just to hedge my bets? Any other ideas? Any bets on how easy it is to get the screws out again? Same trouble as the first time, or will they "pop right out"?

Think I'll go have a :beer:
 
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