- Thread starter
- #421
Ok ive done all of that besides the duct seals and the foam on the fresh recirc flapper thing. When i replace my dash cover, i thin kthats a perfect time to get back up in there and seal everything out.
How to LS Swap a FJ60 or FJ62. Quick and dirty guide for regular folks wanting to do an engine swap in their driveway. (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter dbbowen
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tmxmotorsports
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Yeah all that mess is dry rotted
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- #423
I know for sure the flapper thing is dry rotted. When I was having gas tank venting issues i could smell the fumes in the truck when set to recirc hahaha
- Thread starter
- #424
Another post to add to the thread that i wish i knew 2 years ago...
If you are planning on using a 4l60e transmission in your LS Swap into a 60.... do not use the split transfercase or advance adapter at all. The split case whines no matter what you do to it. New bearings? Whine. new adapter bearing? Whine. Brand new transfer case assembly? Whine. Literally nothing you do will stop it from whining. The whining isnt too bad and a lot of people cant even hear it over mud terrain tires, or sound deadening, or the radio.
The solution.
@TRAIL TAILOR offered this solutions months ago to me and i totally forgot to put it on here and didnt really fully know how it worked until @cruiseroutfit explained it in detail.
Use a HF2A Transfer Case assembly from an 80 series. Buy a Spool for it and wire in a center diff lock switch for the CDL actuator on the Transfer case.
The HF2A doesnt whine when behind an adapter, you can put drop in low range gears into it without machining the case body, and youll use an adapter from advance adapters for it that doesnt suck like the garbage they make for the split case.
Heres how it works.
Links:
Brand new HF2A Tcase
Spool for HF2A case
Tcase Adapter
For what its worth, The split case and 4l60 havent given me any issues outside of it whining. That being said, if i knew this info when i did my swap i would have gone this route instead of using the split case. The HF2A case comes with a bigger cost, but i think its worth it to have a quiet powertrain
If you are planning on using a 4l60e transmission in your LS Swap into a 60.... do not use the split transfercase or advance adapter at all. The split case whines no matter what you do to it. New bearings? Whine. new adapter bearing? Whine. Brand new transfer case assembly? Whine. Literally nothing you do will stop it from whining. The whining isnt too bad and a lot of people cant even hear it over mud terrain tires, or sound deadening, or the radio.
The solution.
@TRAIL TAILOR offered this solutions months ago to me and i totally forgot to put it on here and didnt really fully know how it worked until @cruiseroutfit explained it in detail.
Use a HF2A Transfer Case assembly from an 80 series. Buy a Spool for it and wire in a center diff lock switch for the CDL actuator on the Transfer case.
The HF2A doesnt whine when behind an adapter, you can put drop in low range gears into it without machining the case body, and youll use an adapter from advance adapters for it that doesnt suck like the garbage they make for the split case.
Heres how it works.
Links:
Brand new HF2A Tcase
Spool for HF2A case
Tcase Adapter
For what its worth, The split case and 4l60 havent given me any issues outside of it whining. That being said, if i knew this info when i did my swap i would have gone this route instead of using the split case. The HF2A case comes with a bigger cost, but i think its worth it to have a quiet powertrain
100% Agree. The whine drives me nuts. I will likely be dropping my transmission for a rebuild this winter, and intend to replace my t-case while it is out. Thanks for posting this.
Does anyone know the best donor for the H2FA? I see that the later 80s have the viscous coupler, but that it gets eliminated when doing the part time kit linked above. Any gain to sourcing the early 80 or 100/470 series case that doesn't have the viscous coupler aside from a slightly shorter case length?
- Thread starter
- #426
I think the earlier ones are the best move, theyre shorter and dont have the VC at all.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Been a minute but I put a brand new 100 series case in a customer's 80 ls manual swap.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Nit cheap by any means but it's brand new.
haha cheap is already out the window.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Like 5k
I don’t know if I’m lucky but I’ve been driving mine a bit now and no whine yet, but I haven’t hit the highway.
Edit: caveat is I’m running the 6l80, and the adapter is different, but the same concept as far as I can tell
Edit: caveat is I’m running the 6l80, and the adapter is different, but the same concept as far as I can tell
- Thread starter
- #432
The 6l80 adapter looks to be much better designed compared to the 4l60 one. Like a lot better haha
Are you purging fuel tank fumes to engine bay? Trying to put a charcoal evap canister in my build but your idea looks simple enough if fuel vapors are not dumping to the engine bayNext is fuel. There are a ton of ways to skin this cat, and the setup is different for gen3 vs gen 4. Gen 3 motors use a fuel pressure regulator that is located on the fuel rail itself. Gen 4 uses an external fuel pressure regulator. Ill do my best to talk about both here.
So the absolute greatest way to do this is to call @orangefj45 or @wardharris and get a long range tank for a fj62, and then put a deatschwerks unversal in tank fuel pump in there. Then run your supply line with a fuel filter using -6 hose or bend you some stainless tubing to take the place of the stock fuel tubing.
In the real world, that whole setup is $$$$ so this is just a way to do it cheaper and simpler. This is what i did in the meantime, but am planning on eventually going with the long range tank with in tank fuel pump. The in tank fuel pump is much quieter and more reliable, but not totally necessary for your swap.
So earlier you removed your supply fuel line when you had the engine out of the truck. Go ahead and remove the brackets for your brake lines and your return line. Save the bolts and everything. Youll notice on the frame where it bends towards the rear there is a lot of empty non threaded holes. You can use rivnuts on these to secure your in line fuel pump. Move your lines around and try to make some room for your fuel pump to be mounted, its pretty obvious where things will want to live. If you mount it here it will be below your tank and wont run dry. I personally like the deatschwerks products over the warlboro stuff, but you can choose to use whatever. The Warlboro stuff has complaints about pressure falling off at higher RPM and the DW pump doesnt. If you have $$$ to spend aeromotive is probably the best fuel pump you can buy. For a stock LS, the DW250IL is plenty for a fuel pump. Its a little noisier but will give you a bit better performance.
Speaking of fuel pumps, you will want to use some rubber isolation on the pump bracket to eliminate some unwanted noise. From your rivnuts you can use these rubber isotors:
amazon link
Those are m6 so obviously use m6 rivnuts. they will isolate the vibration of the fuel pump bracket from your frame rail. Then use the supplied rubber that came with the fuel pump bracket to isolate the fuel pump from the bracket. I also added to my bracket with rubber mastic tape to increase sound dampening. You can mount the fuel filter to the frame rail closer to the front of the truck using an existing threaded hole and also a rivnut on a blank hole. Once this fuel pump bracket and the fuel pump is in place and the fuel filter is in place, you have a base of where to run your fuel lines. You want to come out of your gas tank with regular fuel injection rubber hose, into a pre filter, then into the fuel pump with normal fuel injection hose. From the fuel pump forward is where the high pressure AN hose begins.
You will build these hoses the exact same way you built the trans hoses in the posts above.
For a Gen 3 motor using the stock fuel regulator on the fuel rail you will use a regular high pressure fuel filter after the fuel pump. Then run -6 line all the way up to an adapter on the supply line on the stock fuel rail on the motor.
For the return, use the GM oem fuel return line that was on the motor. You will need to keep the GM return line but cut the metal hose 3 inches from the flex hose. This should give you a quick connect, the black flexible hose, and 3 inches of metal hose to use. With the GM quick connect attached to the fuel rail, attach a rubber fuel injection hose to the metal part of the hose you cut from the oem fuel line on the opposite end, and attach the other end of this rubber line to the stock toyota fuel return hard line that runs along the frame and back into your tank. You can use AN hose and fittings for this if youd like, but this is very low pressure and it is not needed. Worm clamps, or even better breeze clamps are fine for all of the normal rubber fuel injection hose as its low pressure. there is a special tool to remove the GM OEM fuel lines from the fuel rail, they sell them at HF or amazon. Definitley get a set, theyre cheap
Here is a diagram of the fuel supply line i drew out to help visualize it. All of these fittings are -6 in size and if you want to upgrade i would suggest vibrant. These fittings are a place where you can splurge some. Especially on the adapter for the fuel rail and the fitting off the adapter.
Gen 4 will use a Fuel filter with a fuel pressure regulator built in and will have a return back to the tank from the filter. The Fuel pressure regulator and filter will look like this. The main difference in the line will be that your fuel rail will not have a return. You will need to remove your stock return line, and make a new return line off of this filter back to your tank. This will go in the same spot as the fuel filter for the Gen 3 diagram above.
Quote @Megadoomer " in 2003 GM has a Late 03 GEN3 motor that is returnless fuel and DBW without AFM or DOD. "
Here are some pictures from my setup.
Fuel rail. Notice the gen 3 fuel filter regulator on the fuel rail. Also the lower return line is the stock fuel hose modified and the upper is a -6 line with 2 AN fittings.
Once your hose is built and your filter and pump are mounted you can tighten all of your AN fittings, and reuse the threaded holes in the frame to secure the fuel line with Adel clamps to the frame. You might have to share a bolt with some brake line for some of the brackets. There are plenty of threaded holes under there.
Also, while you are in here you can go ahead and knock out your vacuum hose that will attach to the brake booster. You can use the stock vacuum line fitting that is located on the back of the intake and use some of the old transmission hard line to shove into the plastic vacuum line fitting for the GM intake. I put a bend in the hard line and filed it down some and epoxied it into the plastic. Then you can use a Molded 90* 1969 camaro PCV hose to connect to your brake booster for a clean look. PN: EGP-1792. The trans line and the vacuum port on the brake booster are both the same size so you can just use this hose alone. You can see it in the photo with the fuel lines:
If you would prefer not to do this vacuum hose for your factory brakes, this is a good time to swap over to Hydroboost brakes. You will need the PS Pump from a 6.0 truck, it will bolt into place. Then (if keeping stock 60 brake calipers) get a smaller bore Hydroboost master. 1 inch would be ideal if you can find it. If you go larger you will need larger brake calipers. I am still going back and forth on swapping to hydroboost personally.
Once you are done with this, check all your AN fittings again to be sure they are tight. This is the one dangerous part of the swap. If you overtighten a fitting or under tighten it at the fuel rail it will drip onto your exhaust. You really want to get this stuff right the first time and double check it after start up and check for smells or leaks. You should never smell any fuel in here.
As far as the Charcoal canister is concerned, I just removed mine completely. I attached normal fuel injection hose from the metal line along the frame rail by the passenger side firewall and ran it up behind my wiper washer bottle and put a 1 way breather valve on it. I have had no issues so far running it this way, and my buddies with LS Swapped 240s havent had any issues doing this either. You could use a fancy ARB breather if you wanted but the cheap dorman ones from Oreiley work just fine. I did have to shim my washer bottle out some from the fender with some washers so it would not kink the hose. You can also see my Fuel return line in this photo as well, both of these hoses are secured to the firewall with adel clamps using existing threaded holes. Ironically, before i removed my charcoal canister, i could never fill my 60 up past 16 gallons when completely empty. I always thought that they had 16 gallon tanks, but after doing this i can fill it up past 20 gallons. Im thinking something was wrong with my charcoal canister or something. I also had a lot of blowback when i opened the gas cap and the gas pump would always overfill out of the hole. Since doing this there is not really any blowback of fumes and the pump doesnt spew gas out of the filler hole anymore. It is hard to see from the photo, but there is DEI heat wrap wrapped around both the return rubber hose and the vent rubber hose down there under that little bracket. I have that running into another heat wrap covering the fuel hoses and wiring near the exhaust. That little section of frame rail gets pretty busy, but with some heat protection youll be all good.
I ran a fuel line hose from the stock vent pipe next to the fuel lines, into the inner fender well with one of these. I built a 90 degree bracket that moves that valve back towards the fender vent. Never smell any fumes. I think @dbbowen did something similar
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- #435
@ceylonfj40nut ive actually relocated my one way valve up to my core support area and have been meaning to finish my EVAP system but ive not gotten around to it. I posted this to your thread.
Im adding a square OEM GM charcoal canister to mine back near the fuel tank. The inlet will go to to the in on the canister, the outlet will connect to the existing hard line that goes up the frame to the engine bay. on the other side of that, im going to connect a hose to the oem Purge solenoid on my intake. At least on Gen 3 you cant actually tune that out of the softare, you just disable the MIL Light. Should still purge it like normal.
The charcoal canister i am using is GM 215-180
Im adding a square OEM GM charcoal canister to mine back near the fuel tank. The inlet will go to to the in on the canister, the outlet will connect to the existing hard line that goes up the frame to the engine bay. on the other side of that, im going to connect a hose to the oem Purge solenoid on my intake. At least on Gen 3 you cant actually tune that out of the softare, you just disable the MIL Light. Should still purge it like normal.
The charcoal canister i am using is GM 215-180
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Thats what the (insertcorrectword)behind the passenger side cargo panel is for.
"Was"
What's a method or device to take the place of it? I have used an alternate method of storing and delivering fuel.
I do still have the oem whatchocallit , but I don't remember how to plumb it. And had forgotten about it, actually. If I remember, there was a hard line that went over to the left wheel area and back.
Would that be something that would work with a chevy fuel pump setup?
You can see the vent on this tank, but it's huge compared with the cinnections on the oem toyota device
Vapor separator. See pic of how it is plumbed.
- Thread starter
- #440
There is a short section of fuel hose in between the hard line that runs up to the vapor separator and the hard line that runs up the fuel rail to the engine. Its about 4 or so inches long. That is where i am going to plumb in my charcoal canister @ceylonfj40nut. just make a bracket to attach it somewhere back there and you wont have to see it in the engine bay
