HOW TO: Fuel pump install plus upgrade (1 Viewer)

[NLXTACY]

I've been feeling hesitation that seems like its been getting a little worse over time. Maybe its a fuel filter but I doubt it since it was changed barely 6k ago. I figured might as well replace the fuel pump. It could be the answer that I am looking for. Now since I am replacing my fuel pump with a Supra pump I will keep the conversation going as if its just a normal fuel pump and then motion over to the rest of the install with the Supra pump and what I ended up doing.

After doing a search I found a few threads that discuss the fuel pump replacement but only certain parts of it. There were certain assumptions. I figured I would remove the assumptions and just document the whole process and let those who have yet to travel down this road use the info as they feel.

Obviously its best to follow the FSM but if you follow this thread its pretty much following what the FSM says to do.

So lets start...

Actually before we start, get your safety net going by making sure you have a fire extinguisher nearby. I had one outside the truck and one right by me where I was working. I didn't want any surprises. Next up is to open up all the windows for venting and if you are working in the garage, open the door

Ok, so lets start:

Fire extinguishers- check
Realize the second row seats need to be removed- check
The floor mat doesn't really need to be there does it- check

 

[NLXTACY]

Under the second row seating are the covers to the seat mounts. All four of those need to come off. No easy way I could find to remove the plastic pieces other than brute force with a screwdriver. Flip the seats forward and you will have access to the rear of the seat mounts. The plastic covers need to come off and then you will access to all of the 14mm bolts. Remove all and remove the seats from the truck.

 

[NLXTACY]

Remove the side step, the step floor trim and the side trim that covers the seatbelt for the second row seats. These need to come out so that you can move the carpet out of the way. Lift up the rear cargo area carpeting and you will see four screws sticking up form the carpet. Just move the carpet that was under the second row seats and start peeling it towards the front row seats.

 

[NLXTACY]

Hopefully the jute under your carpeting isn't so heinous that it all sticks to the floor and all nasty and smelly. Mine, of course, was not

Here you will see the access panel for the fuel pump. Three simple screws gets you in. Hopefully your screws are super shiny and brand new looking like these and not all rusty.

 

[NLXTACY]

You can now see the top of the fuel pump assembly. What you have is the banjo bolt, which is 17mm, the return line and the fuel pump connector. Remove the connector and put it to the side. Remove the return line and put it to the side. You want as much room around the banjo bolt as you can get.

BUT before you crack open that banjo bolt, go remove the fuel cap to release and pressure to the system. Well, most pressure.

EDIT: got a PM about a foot note to add: "I wanted to make a suggestion to say something about cleaning the top of the fuelpump plate before taking it off the top of the tank. Your pictures show it real clean after you broke the banjo fitting loose. For me, I ended up using a toothbrush around the entire edge of the pump plate to knock all the dirt off. And even brought the garden hose into the truck to spray off the top pump area. I would have dumped some dirt into the tank when I removed the plate if I had't spent some time cleaning this gasket area up before lifting the pump assembly out."

 

[NLXTACY]

Now start stuffing some paper towels around the banjo fitting because there WILL be fuel spurting out. It will be a few paper towels worth but it will eventually stop. Take one last paper towel and wrap the banjo fitting with it and move the banjo hose out of the way. Take off all eight of the small phillips screws. One of the screws holds down the connector to the fuel pump, that gets moved out of the way. Another screw holds a thin metal bracket, that bracket just rotates up and out of the way.

 

[NLXTACY]

Now because the fuel pump has been sitting in the same spot, undisturbed, for the past 12+ years, its not going to want to just lift up. In fact a screwdriver didn't work for me. I had to use a small crowbar to get leverage onto the side of the fuel pump top plate to release the gasket's grip. After that the entire fuel pump assembly will pull up and out. You will need to twist the assembly and maneuver it out CAREFULLY because you do not want to mess with bending the float.

Once out you can revel in the condition of your fuel pump sock. Mine looked like everyone else's but I did have a spot of gathered particles.

 

[NLXTACY]

I had been saving all of the pieces to make this happen. Now since I am going Super Charged I am actually upgrading my fuel pump to a Supra fuel pump. This is where the install gets sidetracked for those who are replacing the stock unit.

If you have the stock unit all you need to do is nudge the bottom of the fuel pump away from the bracket. There is a rubber isolator. Don't lose that unless you are rocking the Supra pump. In which case its not used.

What you need to make this successful is:
•Fuel pump
•(2) banjo crush washers
•Fuel pump assembly gasket
• Fuel pump sock

Here you can see the difference in size between the stock OEM pump and the new Supra pump.

 

[NLXTACY]

For those that wants to see the inside of the fuel tank. I actually left mine on the full side because there is MUCH less risk of explosion with liquid fuel vs fuel vapors.

 

[NLXTACY]

Here you can see the fuel pump removed from the assembly. ts just one hose, one connector and its out. Simple.

I happen to have both socks, one for the original pump and one for the Supra pump. The original one has the tab that is straight up while the Supra sock is offset. In order to make sure the sock stays on you must slide that tab onto a post on the pump. Then that tiny little clip slides over the post to retain the sock.

 

[NLXTACY]

Clip installed and now you can the size difference between the original and Supra pumps.

 

[NLXTACY]

Now for the Supra pump install I could not find any info at all about installing it. Just that others made it work. I tried the RTH thing but that failed miserably so I figured I might as well improvise since this is my DD.

The Supra pump is fatter and longer then the original pump. This means the little rubber isolator isn't used. The small fuel hose needs to be slipped onto the metal fuel line first, then onto the fuel pump itself then clamped down. For the fuel pump itself I needed to make sure that it was secure against the bracket. I've seen people use zipties. No way in hell. I grabbed two hose clamps and used the clamping force to work the pump towards the bracket which nudged the fuel pipe just enough to let everything sit just right. Good to go...except...there is no connector on the Supra pump. Just terminals marked (+) and (-).

 

[NLXTACY]

Here is where you start to question your own wiring skills. How in the hell is electricity powering the pump THRU gasoline and NOT exploding?!??! I digress.

I had to make new ring terminals with a length of 14 awg wire. I could have drilled out the rivets and made it one continuous run (what I normally would do) but instead I decided to extend the wires from the connector. A couple butt connectors later and I was ready to rock.

 

[NLXTACY]

Now the entire assembly is ready to go back into the tank. Just reverse what you did to remove it. It doesn't want to go in smoothly. You actually have to twist the assembly 90º first them wiggle it in to clear the float. Then another 90º twist back and you will need to continue wiggling back and forth until it fits into its little spot. Once you have it sitting flush then you can now do the entire process in reverse. Tighten down the eight small screws attaching the connector bracket and the one you moved up out of the way. Connect the hose and clamp. Plug in the connector.

Now as you look on the banjo fitting you will notice the banjo crush washers are probably still sticking to the banjo fitting. These MUST come off. DO NOT reuse these. There are two, one on each side of the banjo fitting. Replace with the two new ones. In order: crusher washer...then banjo fitting...then the other crush washer...then the banjo bolt. Torque the banjo bolt to 22ft. lbs. Trust this torque setting. DO NOT tighten any more. 22, that's it.

Don't put the cover on yet. You need to test it. Put the fuel cap back on so that you can let the fuel system build up pressure again. This is where you check for leaks. Start the truck. Its going to want to sputter but it will get the fuel going again. Time to go for a drive to make sure you don't have leaks. Maybe bring one of these fire extinguishers with you

Drive around a bunch and go WOT so that the fuel pump spins up to maximum flow. No leaks? Start buttoning everything back you. You are good to go.

So go enjoy a

 

[Riad]

Awesome!! I've been thinking of doing this. So where did you get those clamps to hold/install the small black hose? What's the theory for the electricity and fuel, it doesn't conduct in fuel? What happens if you have bad fuel (I.e with moisture or very little water)? Sorry for the digress but I get real nervous with electric stuff. Finally, without any forced induction how would a stock engine behave with this pump? I'm guessing there should be no change in consumption and or power.

Thanks!!!

 

[scottryana]

Without some type of FI there is zero need for upgrading to the supra pump. The stock pump can already outflow the engine demands. For the FI guys that are swapping in bigger injectors and tuning for the larger injectors this will become important around 280awhp I am guessing.

 

[pkelly72]

Awesome write up. Something I always wanted to do.

 

[livinoffroad]

For those that wants to see the inside of the fuel tank. I actually left mine on the full side because there is MUCH less risk of explosion with liquid fuel vs fuel vapors.

I can attest to this...I used to weld up leaks (usually vibration fractures), in diesel fuel tanks, on Caterpillar equipment, but the leak had to be BELOW the fuel level, so the tank was always full.

Riad wrote: "What's the theory for the electricity and fuel, it doesn't conduct in fuel? What happens if you have bad fuel (I.e with moisture or very little water)? Sorry for the digress but I get real nervous with electric stuff."

We all know it takes 3 things for combustion to occur: (1)fuel, (2)heat, and (3)oxygen. Remove just one, and there is no combustion. Electricity is not actually (2)"heat", in this instance, unless it arcs across an air gap, and, electricity travelling thru fuel, where there is no (3)oxygen, eliminates 2 of the 3.

Great write-up!! And such dedication!! Posting at 12:05am!! I'll use this to replace my STOCK pump!

 

[NLXTACY]

So where did you get those clamps to hold/install the small black hose? What's the theory for the electricity and fuel, it doesn't conduct in fuel? What happens if you have bad fuel (I.e with moisture or very little water)? Sorry for the digress but I get real nervous with electric stuff. Finally, without any forced induction how would a stock engine behave with this pump? I'm guessing there should be no change in consumption and or power.

The clamps are just regular hose clamps. If I had constant torque clamps I would have rocked those to keep all of my clamps the same

Zero reason to change to Supra pump unless you are Turbo'd. In my case it *might* be overkill even for SC. We shall see.

 

[Cruiserhead05]

Didn't see this clarified, but is the pump a turbo or n/a supra pump?