How To: Fuel Filter 100 Series

[UGN]

I find my rig jerks forward under acceleration going uphill. I cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body, replaced the spark plugs, replaced the air filter, used all kinds of fuel system cleaners but it still jerks from time-to-time. Now I'm trying a cleaner for the catalytic converters and will replace the fuel filter.

Thank you @OG 91 LC for making the pictures.

Here are couple excerpts from FSM (2004 LC) with torque specs for tightening the flare nut and removing the retainer.

 

[Pyrenees]

Put a new OEM filter in mine as preventative maintenance a couple years ago. No issues with it yet. SUPER easy job to do, just bring a fire extinguisher because... well... gasoline. But even a rag soaked up pretty much whatever came out, when I did it.

 

[REZARF]

When did you last change the tranny fluid?

 

[UGN]

When did you last change the tranny fluid?

If the question is addressed to me I did the full replacement 1.5 years ago and drained the pan last year. It does not jerk when I accelerate on a flat ground, only while accelerating uphill around 70-80 km/h. It's possible the fuel filter does not provide enough fuel under load.

WS ATF Flush Procedure - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ws-atf-flush-procedure.447398/post-12580151

WS ATF Flush Procedure - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ws-atf-flush-procedure.447398/post-13053016

 

[Weeble]

The fuel filter in my rig is using a blue (blue!) clip. Curious if anyone knows what's going on with that.

 

[flintknapper]

The fuel filter in my rig is using a blue (blue!) clip. Curious if anyone knows what's going on with that.

Doesn't need to be green as long as it holds. Never seen a blue one though.

 

[ghong14]

Just getting mine changed as well. The filter is about $30 for the part. I have a 178K on my truck and never changed it. By the way did anyone have to relieve the pressure on the fuel line before taking it off?

 

[Mike NXP]

Just getting mine changed as well. The filter is about $30 for the part. I have a 178K on my truck and never changed it. By the way did anyone have to relieve the pressure on the fuel line before taking it off?

Wasn't necessary...just put a rag under to catch the drips.

 

[flintknapper]

Just getting mine changed as well. The filter is about $30 for the part. I have a 178K on my truck and never changed it. By the way did anyone have to relieve the pressure on the fuel line before taking it off?

There will be very little residual pressure. This is after sitting overnight on mine.

20 psi will not cause you any issues.

 

[awesomeissquid]

I changed my fuel filter last weekend but I have been a little worried about burning my truck down.

Is the manual saying the torque is 25 ft-lbs and with the SST 28 ft-lbs or is the 25 ft-lbs with the SST and 28 ft-lbs without?

What's the best way to make sure there is no fuel leaking? Is just running the engine at idle enough or does the flow/pressure change when it is rev'ed? I ran it at idle and didn't see/smell anything but like I said I feel paranoid...

 

[Mike NXP]

I changed my fuel filter last weekend but I have been a little worried about burning my truck down.

Is the manual saying the torque is 25 ft-lbs and with the SST 28 ft-lbs or is the 25 ft-lbs with the SST and 28 ft-lbs without?

What's the best way to make sure there is no fuel leaking? Is just running the engine at idle enough or does the flow/pressure change when it is rev'ed? I ran it at idle and didn't see/smell anything but like I said I feel paranoid...

I don't think you need to be paranoid, just snug up the connections, run it, and monitor it for leaks. I suspect a leak would be seen then but you could go for a quick test drive and then double check it to make sure. Bring a fire extinguisher, JK..... sorta.

 

[flintknapper]

I changed my fuel filter last weekend but I have been a little worried about burning my truck down.

Is the manual saying the torque is 25 ft-lbs and with the SST 28 ft-lbs or is the 25 ft-lbs with the SST and 28 ft-lbs without?

What's the best way to make sure there is no fuel leaking? Is just running the engine at idle enough or does the flow/pressure change when it is rev'ed? I ran it at idle and didn't see/smell anything but like I said I feel paranoid...

25 or 28 ft. lbs if those are the figures given will be sufficient in either case. Yes, checking at idle for leaks (visually) and for smell should be enough.

 

[awesomeissquid]

Thank you both for the confirmation. Yea, the fire extinguisher stays in the truck permanently.

 

[flintknapper]

Thank you both for the confirmation. Yea, the fire extinguisher stays in the truck permanently.

Good man. Always be prepared.

 

[Weeble]

My leak was apparent at idle, immediately, could not miss!
Also horrified myself by draping a microfiber across the fender while leaning in, discharged a bunch of static when I pulled it off.

 

[flintknapper]

My leak was apparent at idle, immediately, could not miss!
Also horrified myself by draping a microfiber across the fender while leaning in, discharged a bunch of static when I pulled it off.

Whoa...........

That could have turned into something kinda trippy.

 

[divejoe]

Finally got to do this and pretty straight forward. Had issues with a leak. Took it apart, cleaned it, reset it, tighten up and still was leaking. I had to really tighten up hard for it to stop. Thanks for the thread very useful!

 

[LeLe Bee]

I'd caution against methods that increase leverage, i.e., cheater bars. If a 14mm is stuck/rusted so bad that you can't get it free with a standard sized line wrench (and yes, use one of those), applying greater force has a high likelihood of breaking something rather than solving something. PB Blaster or SeaFoam penetrant, tap on the area lightly to encourage soak-in, then let it sit. Repeat as necessary..for a few days if you must. Throw away your WD40 or keep it to use as a cleaner (removes duct tape residue great!) and don't bother w/ Liquid Wrench, either.

The hint to tighten first, a VERY small amount, if you can't break it loose is a good one. You can also tap the wrench with a ballpene hammer in an attempt to break the bond. Tap, not pound. Once the nut moves a bit, if there's still a lot of tension on it, go back and forth, wiggling it, until the rust slowly breaks up..you'll gain a bit of travel each time, and eventually it'll turn freely enough that you can just back it out fully.

This, from a guy that spent two hours yesterday drilling out one broken bolt and another broken bolt with a broken EZ out in it. Still need to work on the one w/ the EZOut. Me you must trust, Luke....learned this I have. The answer to this problem, the Force is not.

I'm having the same problem! I can't break the 14mm nut and it's starting rounding. Any tips? Is there any way to replace it if it's not usable anymore? Do you have the part number for the 144mm nut? Thank you.

 

[Greenbean]

I'm having the same problem! I can't break the 14mm nut and it's starting rounding. Any tips? Is there any way to replace it if it's not usable anymore? Do you have the part number for the 144mm nut? Thank you.

Can I ask if your using a flare nut wrench to break them loose?

Because of the flare in the line those nuts usually come with the metal lines themselves.
I could be wrong, I know you can get a flaring tool and create one but I’m not sure there is enough tubing and
free space to do that.

 

[2001LC]

IMHO, most have issue with the 14mm flare nut breaking loose. Because they do not hold the fuel filter 19mm nut with a wrench. We must! It is also "best" to use a very good fitting 14mm flare nut wrench. Not all flare nut wrenches are the same. Some don't fit snug enough and or inner corners are a bit rounded.