How To: Fuel Filter 100 Series

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With a hair dryer, you are not introducing any more heat than would be present under hood after a long drive. Now, I wouldn't suggest a torch, but a hair dryer won't blow you up unless you already have broken it loose and it's leaking.

The filter really is a one man job. Not really room for a second person to hold the 19. Just get a firm grip on the wrenches and pull the 14 to you.
 
@benjawi4

I used wd-40. Whatever you use just let it marinate over night. Just be patient. It's a bit nerve racking because you don't want to damage that line. If you can use a socket or something at the end of the 14mm wrench as an extension that may do the trick.

Here's the fuel hose and part number.

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I changed mine out recently as well at 195k. Cheap insurance. I did notice it seems to start easier and smoother. Could be all in my head haga
 
Great thread. I changed mine today on my new to me '05 LX. One thing I did run into was residual pressure in the line. I took the outlet connector (green plastic piece) off first. Once the connector started to slide off, pressurized gas started coming out for approximately 10 seconds. I simply caught it with a rag until the pressure subsided. For what it's worth I started this project an hour or so after shutdown...maybe that's why there was still pressure in the line.
 
thanks for the pictures and suggestions, changed it out this morning, at 159,000, and am glad I did!

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Attempted this earlier but the 14mm wouldn't loosen. I hit it with Kroil multiple times, still nothing. Used a 19mm on the filter, no movement. Tried a quick tighten then loosen, nada.

Next attempt will be with some kind of cheater bar and maybe a better set of wrenches. I was not gentle but also not over the top so as to avoid stripping. Hopefully I can get this thing moving, seems like an easy peace of mind service.
 
I'd caution against methods that increase leverage, i.e., cheater bars. If a 14mm is stuck/rusted so bad that you can't get it free with a standard sized line wrench (and yes, use one of those), applying greater force has a high likelihood of breaking something rather than solving something. PB Blaster or SeaFoam penetrant, tap on the area lightly to encourage soak-in, then let it sit. Repeat as necessary..for a few days if you must. Throw away your WD40 or keep it to use as a cleaner (removes duct tape residue great!) and don't bother w/ Liquid Wrench, either.

The hint to tighten first, a VERY small amount, if you can't break it loose is a good one. You can also tap the wrench with a ballpene hammer in an attempt to break the bond. Tap, not pound. Once the nut moves a bit, if there's still a lot of tension on it, go back and forth, wiggling it, until the rust slowly breaks up..you'll gain a bit of travel each time, and eventually it'll turn freely enough that you can just back it out fully.

This, from a guy that spent two hours yesterday drilling out one broken bolt and another broken bolt with a broken EZ out in it. Still need to work on the one w/ the EZOut. Me you must trust, Luke....learned this I have. The answer to this problem, the Force is not.
 
Climrox said:
Great thread. I changed mine today on my new to me '05 LX. One thing I did run into was residual pressure in the line. I took the outlet connector (green plastic piece) off first. Once the connector started to slide off, pressurized gas started coming out for approximately 10 seconds. I simply caught it with a rag until the pressure subsided. For what it's worth I started this project an hour or so after shutdown...maybe that's why there was still pressure in the line.
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I like to disconnect power to fuel pump relay and then start engine. That will relieve pressure in the filter. I have not done it on the 470, so I don’t know if it is that easy for our rigs...
 
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