How To: Fuel Filter 100 Series (1 Viewer)

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With a hair dryer, you are not introducing any more heat than would be present under hood after a long drive. Now, I wouldn't suggest a torch, but a hair dryer won't blow you up unless you already have broken it loose and it's leaking.

The filter really is a one man job. Not really room for a second person to hold the 19. Just get a firm grip on the wrenches and pull the 14 to you.
 
@benjawi4

I used wd-40. Whatever you use just let it marinate over night. Just be patient. It's a bit nerve racking because you don't want to damage that line. If you can use a socket or something at the end of the 14mm wrench as an extension that may do the trick.

Here's the fuel hose and part number.

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I changed mine out recently as well at 195k. Cheap insurance. I did notice it seems to start easier and smoother. Could be all in my head haga
 
Great thread. I changed mine today on my new to me '05 LX. One thing I did run into was residual pressure in the line. I took the outlet connector (green plastic piece) off first. Once the connector started to slide off, pressurized gas started coming out for approximately 10 seconds. I simply caught it with a rag until the pressure subsided. For what it's worth I started this project an hour or so after shutdown...maybe that's why there was still pressure in the line.
 
Oy, overtime I see this thread pop up it reminds me I need to do this since I already have the filter. :bang: I hope it is nice this weekend.
 
thanks for the pictures and suggestions, changed it out this morning, at 159,000, and am glad I did!

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How does a bad fuel filter manifest itself? How does one know its time to change it
 
Attempted this earlier but the 14mm wouldn't loosen. I hit it with Kroil multiple times, still nothing. Used a 19mm on the filter, no movement. Tried a quick tighten then loosen, nada.

Next attempt will be with some kind of cheater bar and maybe a better set of wrenches. I was not gentle but also not over the top so as to avoid stripping. Hopefully I can get this thing moving, seems like an easy peace of mind service.
 
I'd caution against methods that increase leverage, i.e., cheater bars. If a 14mm is stuck/rusted so bad that you can't get it free with a standard sized line wrench (and yes, use one of those), applying greater force has a high likelihood of breaking something rather than solving something. PB Blaster or SeaFoam penetrant, tap on the area lightly to encourage soak-in, then let it sit. Repeat as necessary..for a few days if you must. Throw away your WD40 or keep it to use as a cleaner (removes duct tape residue great!) and don't bother w/ Liquid Wrench, either.

The hint to tighten first, a VERY small amount, if you can't break it loose is a good one. You can also tap the wrench with a ballpene hammer in an attempt to break the bond. Tap, not pound. Once the nut moves a bit, if there's still a lot of tension on it, go back and forth, wiggling it, until the rust slowly breaks up..you'll gain a bit of travel each time, and eventually it'll turn freely enough that you can just back it out fully.

This, from a guy that spent two hours yesterday drilling out one broken bolt and another broken bolt with a broken EZ out in it. Still need to work on the one w/ the EZOut. Me you must trust, Luke....learned this I have. The answer to this problem, the Force is not.
 
Great thread. I changed mine today on my new to me '05 LX. One thing I did run into was residual pressure in the line. I took the outlet connector (green plastic piece) off first. Once the connector started to slide off, pressurized gas started coming out for approximately 10 seconds. I simply caught it with a rag until the pressure subsided. For what it's worth I started this project an hour or so after shutdown...maybe that's why there was still pressure in the line.

I like to disconnect power to fuel pump relay and then start engine. That will relieve pressure in the filter. I have not done it on the 470, so I don’t know if it is that easy for our rigs...
 

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