ToyotaDon
I am here
What about driveline disconnects? Don't have a link, but I know I've seen them before.
How to Flat tow your 80 series... safely. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Mikesta
- Start date
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What makes you think you would have any problem with the axles or transfercase?
FWIW I believe its Slee that flat tows a 100, basicly the same setup.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Did it with the 100 and getting ready to do it with the 80 (although it has 100 drivetrain). Only difference is the viscous coupler in the transfer case. Should not play any role in it. I have spoken to a number of people that have done this and also looked at both transfer cases in detail, and I am fine with doing it.
semlin
curmudgeon
why would you leave the tranny in park? putting it in neutral is an additional failsafe.
auto trans oil pump doesn't spin unless the engine is running. auto trans pump not running = auto trans without lube. Trans in park = o/p shaft not spinning. this should keep the auto trans happier.
m/t transfer case is a different beast all together.
m/t transfer case is a different beast all together.
I, personally, would rather have full disconect from the driveline. That's the only way to know for sure that you won't damage anything. If the axles/driveshafts/trans is spinning, then there's less wear/tear on all the components.
semlin
curmudgeon
the only way the transmission can spin is if the tcase shifts out of neutral into gear. if that were to happen i would prefer the transmission be in neutral than park so that i didn't suddenly find myself with a 6,000 paperweight attached to the back of my motorhome.
semlin
curmudgeon
i agree with this. locking hubs upfront and a driveshaft quick disconnect on the rear is ideal.
There's a fair bit of gear drag as well, even in neutral. Have you ever seen an manual trans car idling in neutral with the wheels off the ground, park brake released? They tend to spin. This is because the input shaft is spinning at engine idle speed.
I would prefer to NOT have the o/p shaft of my trans spinning without pressure-fed lubrication from the trans pump.
But hey, I don't have a motorhome, and tend to tow WITH my 80 and not tow my 80 with something else
Cheers.
I have been wanting to to my 80 behind the motor home, good thread, I will let you tow first though, as a guinie pig, I have been looking at options but the only other way I could see was to put locking hubs front and rear, Which means a ff rear end for me.
I dont want to have to pull shafts every time.
I dont want to have to pull shafts every time.
- Thread starter
- #32
Thank you. Really... I'm doing it to test it for you guys so you guys can make up your mind if you want to do it.
The mileage will now be 12,000+ over the next 13 months so that should give you a good feeling on weather it works or not. Comprende??
I accidently posted this to another thread of mine... too much going on... reposting here to keep the build in one place.
______________
Posting a little update. Patriot arrived so breaks are a go for the toad. One of the last steps was to figure out a mounting bracket. I cut some angle iron and some tabs, and my friend Tor of Toyota Off-Road Fabrication | Home said he would weld it up for me. I drove over there and he looked at it and determined that the ARB tab was an ideal location. I scrapped my idea as wheeling (which I plan on doing with the fam) would break or wreck the fabbed mounting plate.
Tor found an old piece of 1/4" square tube and using his grider cut two plates to go along side the recovery points already integrated into the fram through the ARB.
He welded them on and drilled a few holes and done.
Rochford was there to put out any fires. Safety first right?
- Thread starter
- #33
few more Torski at it.
- Thread starter
- #34
Rochford to the rescue. The TORnado has no time to stop to put out minor fires.
- Thread starter
- #35
So, last night I put the Patriot RF remote brake system in the Landcruiser (it took me about 30 minutes of adjusting to get it calobrated correctly.)
Took it up to a buddies in Everette, WA.... 68 mile round trip. Key on, T-Case in Neutral, brake lights working.
I averaged 8.5mpg down 1.5mpg from my normal 10mpg average.
It towed like a dream, plenty of power with the diesel. I realized that I use the Tow/haul setting in the coach and the Patriot wasn't really needed.... granted I don't tailgate. The airbrake in the coach is NICE...
When I got home, released the brakes, the brakes are now really squishy.... I think I need to do a brake job on the cruiser. I don't know but I believe the patriot found a problem with my toad. I'll keep ya'll updated. (update, I pulled the front wheels, pads are good. I think the patriot flushed out a bubble and now need to bleed them)
Took it up to a buddies in Everette, WA.... 68 mile round trip. Key on, T-Case in Neutral, brake lights working.
I averaged 8.5mpg down 1.5mpg from my normal 10mpg average.
It towed like a dream, plenty of power with the diesel. I realized that I use the Tow/haul setting in the coach and the Patriot wasn't really needed.... granted I don't tailgate. The airbrake in the coach is NICE...
When I got home, released the brakes, the brakes are now really squishy.... I think I need to do a brake job on the cruiser. I don't know but I believe the patriot found a problem with my toad. I'll keep ya'll updated. (update, I pulled the front wheels, pads are good. I think the patriot flushed out a bubble and now need to bleed them)
- Thread starter
- #36
my wife took a video of us pulling out of the driveway after hooking it up for the first time.....
Last thing on the list is the Tail light / brake light /running light configuration.
I called Blue Ox. Mike there is a bad ass cool dude. Here is what you and I need to work through if you don't want magnetic lights on the roof. 12k miles... I don't want magnets.
http://www.aemfg.com/pdfs/BX8869.pdf
Last thing on the list is the Tail light / brake light /running light configuration.
I called Blue Ox. Mike there is a bad ass cool dude. Here is what you and I need to work through if you don't want magnetic lights on the roof. 12k miles... I don't want magnets.
http://www.aemfg.com/pdfs/BX8869.pdf
Land Speeder
InstaH8R
I have been flat-towing lorena bobit for about 6 months now. Last week, towed her 5 hours one-way to GSMTR. Zero issues with the new 33" roller wheels that i picked up for the sole purpose of flat towing. i put the 40's in the back of the tundra. If it's a short trip <2 hours then i'll leave the 40's on... never and issue once dialed in, but...
MAKE SURE the castor is dialed in on the vehicle you're towing. I worked for almost a month on lorena because when the castor was out.... she turned opposite of the towing rig. And do your best to make the tow-bar flat.
Transfer case = N
Transmission = N
Key = ACC
Positive Battery terminal = pulled (long trips only)
The transfer case is slightly warm to the touch, like a dif would be.
The '08 Tundra has zero issues stopping when flat towing, even in sudden stops. I even had to get to 80mph once to get around a semi that would not let me over to change interstates in Atlanta....
MAKE SURE the castor is dialed in on the vehicle you're towing. I worked for almost a month on lorena because when the castor was out.... she turned opposite of the towing rig. And do your best to make the tow-bar flat.
Transfer case = N
Transmission = N
Key = ACC
Positive Battery terminal = pulled (long trips only)
The transfer case is slightly warm to the touch, like a dif would be.
The '08 Tundra has zero issues stopping when flat towing, even in sudden stops. I even had to get to 80mph once to get around a semi that would not let me over to change interstates in Atlanta....
Land Speeder
InstaH8R
hmm.
My magnets keep falling off the rear bumper of lorena. they just aren't strong enough and I don't wanna scratch her paint
. Gotta find a new solution.
I have been pondering this same thing for a while, and tend to trust Slees judgment on this as a possibility with no damage. Cost at $2000 worth of equipment and limited vacation time has prevented me from setting up my 80 and motor home. But $2000 worth of flat towing equipment seems in line with what a trailer, new wiring and tow hitch would cost anyway.
I don't like the idea of towing an extra 1000+ lbs of trailer, but the ability to tow a disabled cruiser is appealing. What to do? I guess I'll play the lottery to afford all options including custom rear shafts and free hubs all around.
I will be following this thread either way.
I don't like the idea of towing an extra 1000+ lbs of trailer, but the ability to tow a disabled cruiser is appealing. What to do? I guess I'll play the lottery to afford all options including custom rear shafts and free hubs all around.
I will be following this thread either way.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Just wire a 6 or 7 pin from the bumper into the tail lights direct. Use diodes to stop it from back feeding. Since your motorhome is "US" Standards, (single brake and indicator), just T the into the brake light on the 80, same for the tail light. Put the diode on the leg from the vehicle. Simple do to. Diodes can be had from Radio Shack.
car ----- diode ----(T the signal from RV into here)----- light bulb
