How to Desmog an FJ60 (1 Viewer)

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that 45' angled metal tube u DO NEED ....


per The MUD SMOG CAZAR ...
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Thanks!... I had a Weber on my vehicle and just went back to stock. The PO had a tube sticking out of the valve cover. Is that where this tube would connect to? { NEVERMIND - I just saw the other pics}
 
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All I can add in is that the only thing I have hooked up on my 82 desmogged 2F is the PCV to manifold vacuum, Brake booster, primary vacuum advance on the big cap dizzy running into a ported vacuum on the MC2100 carb, one dizzy cap port running to small filter high on the fire wall, the other running straight up into the 1993 cadillac de ville air cleaner box mounted right above it, charcoal canister purge line running to an upper port on the MC2100 that leads into the carb air intake and my valve cover air inlet plumbed into the charcoal canister line that runs into that MC2100 upper port so if the crank case needs to pull in some fresh filtered air it readily can. 2F runs great without any issues.
 
Dizzy Vent port question: My current connection goes to a T that connects the Dizzy Vent to the PVC and PVC Inlet. Based on what I see in the desmog instructions you connect the Dizzy Vent to the VCV that has a vacuum to via air cleaner (I haven't connected the T on the VCV to connect x and z in the pic yet). That being said... do i just cap that old connection where the Dizzy Vent was going to or is there something else that was supposed to go there? (I think this may connect to the HIC port...just not 100% sure)


NEVERMIND! just missed it in the doc.... says it should connect to port b on the HIC

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How does one test if the fuel idle cut solenoid is functioning properly? Assuming this is not the carb side of the connection that goes bad, but the engine bay side?
Turn your key two clicks, but do not start the engine.

Now go to the engine bay. See the green electrical connector on top of the carb itself? Disconnect it, and then gently touch it back together. You should hear a click. Or get the Emissions Factory Service Manual and follow the testing directions, which are pretty much the same.

Here is a free digital copy of the manual. I suggest reading the whole thing, even if you are desmogged - it will give you an idea of what each system does.
 
For a proper desmog…..Can anyone clarify if the two circled ports should be capped? Open to atmosphere? Or connected to each other?
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the one on the distributor cap should be hooked up, it needs to vent the distributor
line should come from the firewall breather into the cap then into the bottom of the air cleaner assembly
 
For a proper desmog…..Can anyone clarify if the two circled ports should be capped? Open to atmosphere? Or connected to each other? View attachment 3626581
Not sure if you have this document but explains it all and we’re each port should go if you are desmoged. This pic I pulled from document. Hope this helps.
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A desmog isn’t a binary thing. Read the Emissions Manual. What equipment do you want to keep for your application? What’s your goal? “Desmog” doesn’t mean ripping out every vacuum line willy-nilly. Think about it.

Yes you want your dizzy to vent or it will corrode inside. As for the HAC, what elevation do you live at? Will you ever cross the 4000’ threshold going up or down from where you live? And further, do you want the HAC to inject air in the carb to compensate for lower oxygen levels at altitude, or do you want it to advance the static timing a few degrees to help with the burn with less oxygen in the charge? Or both? Because all three scenarios require plumbing the vac lines different. And I’ll go back to: what’s your goal? Learn what the systems do first and think about it.
 
What he said......I am at sea level and chose to not run the HAC. One of my distributor advance ports is capped. Decide which one to cap after test driving a bit on each port with the other capped. The mentioned document is key to understanding a desmog and all the different variations.
 
Got another desmog question. On the lower BVSV on the thermostat housing, can I just cap that off or do I need to remove and plug it? I have the Allen plugs.
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I’m using the upper (purple I believe) one for EVAP and something else per the “How to desmog an FJ60” instructions. I know it says to remove and plug the lower (pink I believe) one but I was wondering if plugging it with silicone caps would be ok as well? It’s the one with the orange caps, I was just checking to see if the caps fit, if I need to remove it I will. Was hoping to avoid removing it if I can just cap it. Thanks everyone!
 
Got another desmog question. On the lower BVSV on the thermostat housing, can I just cap that off or do I need to remove and plug it? I have the Allen plugs. View attachment 3636275I’m using the upper (purple I believe) one for EVAP and something else per the “How to desmog an FJ60” instructions. I know it says to remove and plug the lower (pink I believe) one but I was wondering if plugging it with silicone caps would be ok as well? It’s the one with the orange caps, I was just checking to see if the caps fit, if I need to remove it I will. Was hoping to avoid removing it if I can just cap it. Thanks everyone!
This will answer your question....
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This just looks nicer.....
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No need to cap at all. It opens a valve when it gets to the right temperature to let vacuum pressure go thru the hoses. No coolant will leak out.
 
When I desmogged my 60 I found both had broken nipples. So just removed vacuum lines. Like you are going to do just plugged both when I pulled housing off and cleaned everything up. Got my plugs from @ToyotaMatt.
Thanks guys for the quick responses! I have the correct plugs, I was just hoping I could hold off removing that until I did the cooling system refresh. All of these responses to my OP have answered my questions. Thanks to this community of helpful folks
 
Thanks guys for the quick responses! I have the correct plugs, I was just hoping I could hold off removing that until I did the cooling system refresh. All of these responses to my OP have answered my questions. Thanks to this community of helpful folks
@CruiserTrash ....fyi ..

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you are going about this FSM correct , like @4runner2FJ60 & @mdw83fj60 go over above

- i found these little rascals below at my local ACE / TRUE Value store , in the plastic pull out parts drawers / self bag & tag type problem solvers , plumbing aisle , years ago , they still keep stock of them there too .....

Note : the OEM 3mm vacuum hose has the normal
interference-feature hose bib tad-wee bit bulge normal …,

and no more ….

This is the highest BAR parts use topic I have ever come across as it relates on-topic here , as Toyota does not make a straight 3mm Vac. Hose through-butt service part like this ….


solid brass = life-time service part ....

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matt...





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@ToyotaMatt I’m not sure why I’m being summoned, but this is a cool thread. Lots of facts, FSM procedures, and smart heads in the room on this one.
 

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