How to cut and reattach coil spring spacers? (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter willfromutah
- Start date
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South Texas 97
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It does look like the original perch is mounted to the axel, and the PO simply cut off the bottom spring locator and then added the spacers. Careful use of a cut off wheel should be able to return both the mount on the axel and the spring locator to 'flat' and then have them re-welded with the orientation noted above, by a competent and experienced welder. When I removed my axel a few months back, the spring is not bolted to the axle.
Everyone seems to be focusing on the front axle perches, but the rear spacers that appear to be welded up inside the coil buckets are going to be a little more difficult to correct. Access in that area is going to be tight. At least with the front, you can remove the axle to improve access for cutting. Can't do that with the rear frame spacers. Not much room for an angle grinder. You might need a small die grinder or plasma to burn those out, but the last thing you want to do is mess up the frame.
The previous owner who did this was an idiot.
The previous owner who did this was an idiot.
ooof! yeah, fixing that rear end abortion would be a pain! mostly because of access.
i was wondering what was done on the rear
agreed.
cut and weld as many times as you like.
welding the perches back into the brackets is not going to introduce enough heat to bother the axle tube. no need to worry about distorting the axle tube. the bracket will dissipate heat.
welding directly on the axle tube requires some care, but i would have no concerns about welding the perch back on
If the spacers at the top of the rear springs are indeed welded in, I would leave them and just get some 862 springs or some other spring with a shorter length rather than mess around with trying to cut that spacer out.
@willfromutah hit the menu button, top eft, and scroll down to the "Clubhouse" section to find clubs in your area
probably a good option if keeping the lift height the same.
it will reduce offroad flex in the rear slightly, but the rear is more flexy than the front anyway
Why would someone do this? This seems like a lot more work and expense vs just buying lift springs. I have nothing to contribute, that sucks. 
- Thread starter
- #30
Thanks for all of the input, Guys.
I think my plan is:
1. Take the rear springs out first and see how the spacer is attached/pray they aren't welded to the frame. I already purchased the OME 2863 rear coil springs and the 60071 Nitro charger sport shocks, IF it would be easier/necessary to leave the rear spacer in, I'm not sure how to figure out what coils/shocks I would need to work with the fronts that I bought (OME 2850J springs, 60070L Nitrocharger shocks)
2. Cut out the front spacers and prep the spring perch to be re-attached.
3. Try to borrow a heavier duty welder than the 140 amp mig welder I could borrow (unless you guys think that small welder is sufficient?)
4. If I don't feel like I can safely reattach them with 100% confidence, find a mobile welding service to come help me out as the truck will be up on stands at that point. If i am seeing the photos of the stock mounts correctly, it looks like the mount is only welded onto the perch on two sides, it looks like the circle overhangs the perch on each side and is not welded to anything.
One more question coming from a total noob, because mine is the "semi float' rear axle, am I shooting myself in the foot if I leave the rear spacer in? Does that further stunt the rear axle capability? I'm going to make every effort to get the spacer out, even if only because I already purchased springs and shocks that won't work with them in.
And I agree @b16 it seems like a lot more trouble to do what the PO did rather than just buy the proper components. Maybe they weren't available?
I think my plan is:
1. Take the rear springs out first and see how the spacer is attached/pray they aren't welded to the frame. I already purchased the OME 2863 rear coil springs and the 60071 Nitro charger sport shocks, IF it would be easier/necessary to leave the rear spacer in, I'm not sure how to figure out what coils/shocks I would need to work with the fronts that I bought (OME 2850J springs, 60070L Nitrocharger shocks)
2. Cut out the front spacers and prep the spring perch to be re-attached.
3. Try to borrow a heavier duty welder than the 140 amp mig welder I could borrow (unless you guys think that small welder is sufficient?)
4. If I don't feel like I can safely reattach them with 100% confidence, find a mobile welding service to come help me out as the truck will be up on stands at that point. If i am seeing the photos of the stock mounts correctly, it looks like the mount is only welded onto the perch on two sides, it looks like the circle overhangs the perch on each side and is not welded to anything.
One more question coming from a total noob, because mine is the "semi float' rear axle, am I shooting myself in the foot if I leave the rear spacer in? Does that further stunt the rear axle capability? I'm going to make every effort to get the spacer out, even if only because I already purchased springs and shocks that won't work with them in.
And I agree @b16 it seems like a lot more trouble to do what the PO did rather than just buy the proper components. Maybe they weren't available?
The rear spacer is clearly welded in (it's actually a decent looking overhead weld....) You will need a cutoff wheel on a grinder, maybe a hand-held plasma you can borrow.
The small suitcase welder should be adequate to weld it on, but hopefully you can add shielding gas to the welder in order to get the better penetration of the weld.
A mobile welding service to come make a couple welds will be expensive unless you have a buddy that does this. I mean $$$$. This same person would have the tools to cut out the rear spacer and clean it all up.
140amp MIG should be more than adequate.
you'll only be doing a few short welds at a time
do some test runs on similar thickness scrap steel first to get settings dialed.
I agree, use gas, not gasless wire if possible.
hiring a welder (machine) might be another option if you're not getting a good enough weld
who did you purchase springs from? if you're thinking of leaving the rear, chat with your vendor, see if they can help with exchanging rear springs something suitable.
can the truck sit for a while it it takes time to resolve this? if you're not in an urgent hurry, do the front first, then figure out how to attack the rear.
you'll only be doing a few short welds at a time
do some test runs on similar thickness scrap steel first to get settings dialed.
I agree, use gas, not gasless wire if possible.
hiring a welder (machine) might be another option if you're not getting a good enough weld
who did you purchase springs from? if you're thinking of leaving the rear, chat with your vendor, see if they can help with exchanging rear springs something suitable.
can the truck sit for a while it it takes time to resolve this? if you're not in an urgent hurry, do the front first, then figure out how to attack the rear.
- Thread starter
- #33
I do have access to a plasma cutter if need be. I have a grinder with cut off wheel so I’ll give that a go first.
The small welder I can borrow does have tanks with shielding gas.
So once I cut the rear spacer out, is there something I need to weld back into its place? Is there a mount like the one on the axle, or does that cone inside the spring just sit in there held in place by pressure from the spring?
- Thread starter
- #34
Vehicle can sit for however long it needs. It’s not my daily driver so the only rush I’m in is my own excitement to get the new suspension on. I was going to start on the rear because it seemed like I could knock this out with the tools I have on hand, and then tackle the front after I can borrow the welder.
It depends on what you find when you get in there.
Research on here to see what it should look like.
yes, there is a spring perch/ mount / bucket at the top to locate the cool also.
it will have to be cut free, and welded back in place.
access around the sides of that rear one will be difficult with a grinder.
a die grinder with small cutting discs would get in there more easily, it week cut slower, but may be the only option.
I'd be hesitant too use plasma due to proximity to fuel tank and hoses. take precautions if you go for plasma
This “problem” has been way over blown. I respect the landcruiser name but what it is is a damn truck made of steel like any other. Working with the type of steel cars are made of is like working with clay and to debate this to death and go as far as some have to say he needs to source replacement housings is ludicrous. Nothing there, other than maybe those upper rear spacers” appeared to be hacked on beyond the point of no return.
BTW, when it comes to 115V 140 mig welders, flux core wire penetrates better than solid core wire and gas shielding. I’ve welded everything I’ve welded on a few different rigs over the past 12 years with a Lincoln 140 and flux core and not a single weld has cracked or otherwise been proven inadequate. If I lived much closer to the poor guy who bought the subject cruiser I’d do this for him for free.
@willfromutah - This is not a big deal but I can see where a lack of experience in these matters makes it seem so. You are in good company here (for the most part). Like it was said earlier, search for clubs in a radius which you are willing to travel and you will find good, friendly help that won’t break the bank.
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I agree. I say; just throw your 3" springs on top of the spacers and then run 40s.
- Thread starter
- #39
I had a hard time getting a better photo of the rear spacer but I am hopeful it is not welded to the frame anywhere. Hard to see in the picture but that bead at the top is not actually welded to the frame. It appears it may be just suck up there. Looks like they made like a metal donut and put it around the factory mount. I plan to find out tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #40
Swapped the rears out with no drama. Very happy those spacers were not welded in place.
