How do you remove the hardtop?

[amaurer]

I already have a plan for hoisting it up, but I'm looking for how you guys detach it from the truck?

There are the large number of bolts around the hardtop sides, the bolts that "clamp" the tubes by the doors, and the bolts to the windshield frame up front.

Anything else?

DO you pull the doors first? By removing the hinge pins, or by unscrewing the hinge itself? DO you unscrew it from the door or truck side?

Just looking for what works best... Might like to accomplish this today.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Yes, remove the doors first. I unbolted the doors from the hinges.

You'll have to unbolt all the bolts you mentioned already. It's amazingly easy.

Dan

 

[nspctr1]

Be very careful what you remove. It depends on how your truck was painted. If it was sprayed all at once , meaning with the hinges in place and you remove the hinges then you risk tearing or flaking the paint and leaving the old paint exposed where the hinges used to lie. same with the hinge pins. I do pull the pins and remove the doors, leave the sides on, unbolt the cross bars that go over the door to the windshield and hoist it up. It seems you have a stand or something similar to leave your top on. I used to but I completely dismantled my top this time for easier storage.

GL

 

[D'Animal]

Don't forget the bolts on top of the windshield.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Why not just pull the bolts on the doors? Mike

 

[amaurer]

Be very careful what you remove. It depends on how your truck was painted. If it was sprayed all at once , meaning with the hinges in place and you remove the hinges then you risk tearing or flaking the paint and leaving the old paint exposed where the hinges used to lie. same with the hinge pins. I do pull the pins and remove the doors, leave the sides on, unbolt the cross bars that go over the door to the windshield and hoist it up. It seems you have a stand or something similar to leave your top on. I used to but I completely dismantled my top this time for easier storage.

GL

Why not just pull the bolts on the doors? Mike

nspctr1 is right on the money - my truck has a s***ty respray, so any time I remove something that was painted over the paint tears off in flakes. I'll attack the hinge pins and try to get them off that way.

As for the bolts across the windshield - I don't see any on my truck. It looks like there is a spot for one in the center, but there is no bolt actually there...? How many should there be?

 

[D'Animal]

As for the bolts across the windshield - I don't see any on my truck. It looks like there is a spot for one in the center, but there is no bolt actually there...? How many should there be?

My 1976 has two across the front of the windshield. My 1974 has 4 across.


On the inside, you should have a phillips head bolt at the top of the windshield on the top outer corner. This is where the top of the door jamb that is riveted to the roof meet the windshield.

As far as removing things from a painted rig. Score the outer area with a razor so the paint does not peel.

 

[thecrazygreek]

I assume your talking about the amby doors and not the front doors...

Remove the amby doors, bolts along the tub to hard top sides, bolts on the windshield top, and the 4 ones pictured above. I actually was able to lift off the top all by my lonesome with major heaving and blankets to protect stuff. Pain in the ass, but doable. Wont do it again that way tho. You have a hoist so your gtg.

 

[Living in the Past]

My 1976 has two across the front of the windshield. My 1974 has 4 across.


On the inside, you should have a phillips head bolt at the top of the windshield on the top outer corner. This is where the top of the door jamb that is riveted to the roof meet the windshield.

As far as removing things from a painted rig. Score the outer area with a razor so the paint does not peel.

If the wipers are on the top of the windshield you have four. When the wiper moved to the bottom there are two. The corragated top have none.

The piece above the door is not riveted to the top. It's two pieces. Remove the three phillips screws on the inside to get the pieces apart. Then you can get at the bolts that hold it to the cap.


Problem with removing the door hinge pins is the top pin doesn't clear the windshield and will cut into the paint.

 

[My71FJ40]

Yes, listen to "Living in the past" because he has the best answer. Everything he said is correct. I take my top off first then take the front doors off by knocking out the pins...after loosening the windshield hold downs so that the pins don't rub like "Livin n' past" stated. Also, a lot of people shorten the tubes so you don't have to lift the top so high...they are rather long and in my opinion over done like most things cruiser...which is a good thing. When I first took my top off I raised it about a foot and then cut the tubes off at around 6-8 inches with a sawsall. With all the bolts in the bed, windshield and rear doors I don't think there is enough load to worry that you shortened the tubes a bit. Also, I have open rafters in my garage and used tie down straps to lift my top off by myself, and then I can just park under it. Here is a pic of somebody else's that gave me the idea (don't have a pic of mine). Notice his tubes are shortened also. Hope it goes well.

 

[Shawn Russell]

In my case, it is better to remove the top BEFORE the front doors. Then you can fold down the windshield to remove the front door hinge pins. Otherwise, my top hinge pins will scrape on the frame of the windshield.

Shawn

 

[amaurer]

Thanks guys, I found everything I needed to do, but then decided it was plenty fun with just the doors off for now.

I have no roll bar, not even the stocker, so I'm a little nervous with the top off. I've gotta get it off to install one, but its also my DD, so there is going to be some highway travel.

 

[D'Animal]

You need a roll bar?

 

[amaurer]

You need a roll bar?

Yeah, you got one?

 

[D'Animal]

Yep. it is just sitting here.

It is an old school con fer with the angle iron bottom. not a factory one.

 

[rutbeer]

removal

Mine has two bolts at the windshield front, then the six bolts/screws at the top of the jambs where they meet the windshield frame. Other than that, the amby doors have to come off and the bolts all along the hardtop to body. There are also two set bolts at the posts, but they haven't been tightened in a long time. I did my own version of the hard top hoist pictured here in another thread. I made a giant T out of unistrut and use the harbor freight lift motor. I made custom "handles" out of flat steel that wrap around the top to keep it secure. Works like a champ and way easier to lift without damage.

 

[Toxarch]

I really like that design, rutbeer. Pure genius.

 

[rutbeer]

Thanks, but I can't take all the credit for it. I just took someone else's idea, simplified one part, then beefed up another. His design has four lift points, which avoids the ambulance door catch. You have to remove the catch on mine so that the lift point can wrap around the jamb cleanly. I suppose I could just alter the rear bracket to go around the catch....might do that in subsequent versions.

 

[Cruiser1855]

I assume your talking about the amby doors and not the front doors...

Remove the amby doors, bolts along the tub to hard top sides, bolts on the windshield top, and the 4 ones pictured above. I actually was able to lift off the top all by my lonesome with major heaving and blankets to protect stuff. Pain in the ass, but doable. Wont do it again that way tho. You have a hoist so your gtg.

Glad this post came up. I was about to ask the same question about my hardtop....except I think mine loves my truck so much it doesn't want to come off. I've removed the amby doors, all the bolts listed above and even gone as far as pb blaster around the sides where it connects to the tub.

I've pushed up from the back and it just barely budges. I'm a decent sized guy so I'm really hoping it's not lack of oomph. Granted, the PO said he never took it off in the 14 yrs he had the truck (not sure before that), but should it be that tough?

Sorry to hijack...any ideas are much appreciated.

 

[mixerman]

Don't forget the bolts that pinch the tubes on the back side of your door strikers.