How do you adjust the transfer case? (10 Viewers)

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Maybe i am going down the wrong path with this. But a few yeara ago i switched transfer cases and installed low and high range gears in my new case. Had it gone through and gears installed by a very reputable LC shop. Everything works great. But i notices two thinga ever since the job. Firat of all most of the time i shift out of park into drive i have a little clunck. I think it is worse when i am on a hill. I think my e brakes need sdjustment and park is holding some of the trucks weight. But i wonder if i have the shift linkage or something adjusted pooy.

Alao it takes more effort the shift the t case feom high to low.

Could this be linkage adjustments? Are they sdjustable for the transmision and t caae?
 
most of the time i shift out of park into drive i have a little clunck.
Once you get that handbrake sorted, make sure your park procedure is as follows and you shouldn't get nearly as much clunk.

Neutral
Hand brake
Release brake pedal
Park

You may need to remove and disassemble the transfer case shifter, clean and re-lube the assembly.
This.
 
The transfer case shifters can get stiff to operate as old gear becomes thick and sticky.

You may need to remove and disassemble the transfer case shifter, clean and re-lube the assembly.
Easy enough job
This made a huge difference in my transfer case shifting. It also gave me a chance to replace the torn base boot that was letting a ton of heat into the passenger compartment. :)

I took it apart, cleaned and lubed it, and the effort went to nothing.

I haven't finished installing my sumo gears, but is there any chance that the change in number of teeth changes the engagement effort/feel?

The transfer linkage is definitely adjustable (works like a turnbuckle, but with locking nuts), but I doubt that will change the feel of the engagement.
 
Clunk is slop in the driveline, likely not in the transfer case unless the gears were installed improperly, but you would have known that right away.

If the case was rebuilt, a new detent ball/spring was likely installed.
 
Clunk is slop in the driveline, likely not in the transfer case unless the gears were installed improperly, but you would have known that right away.

If the case was rebuilt, a new detent ball/spring was likely installed.
Driveshaft U-joints?
 
Thanks guys. It is really minor and probably a few minor different things. I am sure i have some drive shaft slop but nothing horrible from what i know. U joints have been done, i think twice but i will check my records. They arnt new but not 30 years old at all. Maybe 5 years?

I am sure i didnt adjust the t case linkage. I will look at that and lube it up also.

P brake obviously needs adjustment. Just being lazy becouse i dont like doing it and feel like i over think the job.

I could have a little slop in the drive line other than the u joints. I guess the shafts could wear at the splines right? Or the rear end i guess. It is 368,XXX miles on it.

But i will start with the simple stuff and also adjust my procedures.
 
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Thanks guys. It is really minor and probably a few minor different things. I am sure i have some dive shaft slop but nothing horible from what i know. U joints have been done, i think twice but i will check my records. They arnt new but not 30 years old at all. Maybe 5 years?

I am sure i didnt adjust the t case linkage. I will look at that and lube it up also.

P brake obviously needs adjustment. Just being lazy becouse i dont like doing it and feel like i over think the job.

I could have a little slop in the drive line other than the u joints. I guys the shafts could wear at the splines right? Or the rear end i guess. It is 368,XXX miles on it.

But i will start with the simple stuff and also adjust my procedures.
You shouldn't have to adjust the linkage after a rebuild and/or new gears as nothing would have changed in regards to the H/L shifting. The shifter mounted on the transmission has no detent and should flop around easily with the linkage disconnected. It has more available movement than needed. The shift detents are in the transfer case and they should snap in place.
 
Thanks guys. It is really minor and probably a few minor different things. I am sure i have some dive shaft slop but nothing horible from what i know. U joints have been done, i think twice but i will check my records. They arnt new but not 30 years old at all. Maybe 5 years?

I am sure i didnt adjust the t case linkage. I will look at that and lube it up also.

P brake obviously needs adjustment. Just being lazy becouse i dont like doing it and feel like i over think the job.

I could have a little slop in the drive line other than the u joints. I guys the shafts could wear at the splines right? Or the rear end i guess. It is 368,XXX miles on it.

But i will start with the simple stuff and also adjust my procedures.
My rear u-joints were in bad shape after 305k miles. I don't have the full maintenance history, but they are likely original, and based on condition, under lubricated. A call to Cruiser Outfitters will get you the parts you need at a fair price.
 
Land Cruiser Phil’s t-case shifter extension can make a huge improvement in ease of shifting.
Absolutely the wrong way to go about it. If you need more than 2 fingers to shift, then it needs maintenance.
 
My rear u-joints were in bad shape after 305k miles. I don't have the full maintenance history, but they are likely original, and based on condition, under lubricated. A call to Cruiser Outfitters will get you the parts you need at a fair price.
I have replace mine at least once. But they could easily have a 100k on them. I have owned the truck over 200k. But i have my records i could review. Also with my part time system the front dont see much use.
 
I have replace mine at least once. But they could easily have a 100k on them. I have owned the truck over 200k. But i have my records i could review. Also with my part time system the front dont see much use.

What brand uni joints?
I've had cheap ones fail really fast.

If they are Toyota, and been greased a few times in the past five years, 100k miles should be good.
If they've not been greased, or not Toyota, all bets are off
 
What brand uni joints?
I've had cheap ones fail really fast.

If they are Toyota, and been greased a few times in the past five years, 100k miles should be good.
If they've not been greased, or not Toyota, all bets are off

Good point. OEM and i grease them every Spring. I used to start traveling for work mid april every years. So spring time became the time i would do some basics like change all fluids and grease stuff regardless if it needed it or not.

But I haven yet this year so i will give them a good look when i go through it all this time.
 
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Have you used one?
Why would I need to? I can shift with 2 fingers.
The pivot of the shifter is a maintenance item. No need for a band aid if it's maintained properly.
 
Why would I need to? I can shift with 2 fingers.
The pivot of the shifter is a maintenance item. No need for a band aid if it's maintained properly.
I understand the point but I don't view the shifter extension as a "band aid". I got one because it's a much more comfortable height for the shifter to be at. Wasn't for better leverage. For the extremely low cost of the extension I don't see a reason NOT to have one. Ergonomics are much nicer IMO.
 
Easy to take apart, clean and regrease. This is an early style that I used for my LS swap. It was frozen solid when I got it, and now shifts smoothly and easily.
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I understand the point but I don't view the shifter extension as a "band aid". I got one because it's a much more comfortable height for the shifter to be at. Wasn't for better leverage. For the extremely low cost of the extension I don't see a reason NOT to have one. Ergonomics are much nicer IMO.
That's cool. Whatever floats your boat. I never saw the need.
 

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