How can I tell if my Carb. Was actually rebuilt?

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Joined
Aug 20, 2018
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Location
Southern California
Paid $375 to have it rebuilt locally.
From what I can see, it looks like the window was removed(possibly to spray some carb cleaner inside?) The guy almost stripped the screw.
It doesn't look like the main bolts were even touched to remove it. (Still dirty)
I'm thinking the shop just retuned it, and sprayed some carb cleaner inside and replaced some vacuum lines.

Initial problems were that it wasnt idling, wouldn't start on it's own anymore. I had to start it with carb cleaner, and then it would fire up. But not hold idle and die when I let off.
The Carb. Shop told me i need a new brake booster to fix the idle Idling issue.

What else can I look for that would show me it was actually rebuilt?

I've spoken with Mark(s offroad) & City Racer LLC. They both said it probably wasnt rebuilt.

What can I do to confront the shop if its determined it wasnt actually rebuilt?

Here are a couple of photos.
Please let me know if you need any other specific photos.

received_1044786029013938.webp


received_230216740988576.webp
 
Paid $375 to have it rebuilt locally.
From what I can see, it looks like the window was removed(possibly to spray some carb cleaner inside?) The guy almost stripped the screw.
It doesn't look like the main bolts were even touched to remove it. (Still dirty)
I'm thinking the shop just retuned it, and sprayed some carb cleaner inside and replaced some vacuum lines.

Initial problems were that it wasnt idling, wouldn't start on it's own anymore. I had to start it with carb cleaner, and then it would fire up. But not hold idle and die when I let off.
The Carb. Shop told me i need a new brake booster to fix the idle Idling issue.

What else can I look for that would show me it was actually rebuilt?

I've spoken with Mark(s offroad) & City Racer LLC. They both said it probably wasnt rebuilt.

What can I do to confront the shop if its determined it wasnt actually rebuilt?

Here are a couple of photos.
Please let me know if you need any other specific photos.

View attachment 1777881


this is a complex problem with a easy solution , the one i would use any way .......

- first approach the shop and ask for your old parts back , see what they say

- second ask them what size socket they had to use to replace the power valve , in case u dont know its a toyota Odd-ball 9mm

- if they cant produce old parts , and or cant recall having to use a Extra-Deep 9mm 6 point on the power valve , then u most likley are correct in your conclusions is was not properly rebuilt

my 9mm cents


View attachment 1777882
 
If the plunger is new, the top plate of the carb has to come off. You can replace the boot without disassembly but not the plunger. All the screws that look like that one (7 total) have to come out to pull the top.
 
What can I do to confront the shop if its determined it wasnt actually rebuilt?

Learn exactly what is in the rebuild kit like the small check balls (each is diff sized and needs to go in the correct hole)and power valve etc and ask them if they replaced them or what exactly was done. Ask what rebuild kit did they use. They should have many left over parts in the kit as they are made for diff applications. Ask if you can have the left over kit since you paid for it. Ask if they replaced the bottom gasket, then pull the carb off the base and check. You'll need to remove the throttle cable and unpin some linkage from the firewall side of the carb.
 
I think before we all start pointing fingers for a shoddy job more photos would help.
I would expect the entire carb should have been dipped prior to rebuild which would be evident by eye. A carb looks like new metal after a dip. OP ‘should’ be able to see that unless s/he removed and packaged the carb to be sent w/ eyes closed...
 
Well I think that clarification from the shop as to what "Rebuild" means from their standpoint is a major thing. Shops "rebuild" could mean pulling the air horn (top) off and replacing the AC plunger and power valve and leave it at that, while everything is still on the truck.

To get a good idea of what a full rebuild of these carbs looks like, go to the "How-to's" thread and look for the youtube videos by @Pin_Head and you will see how in-depth it SHOULD be.
 
The way I was trying to go about it was I just needed it running, as it's my daily driver. Which led me to taking to a local shop instead of Mark's Off Road.
I'll probably end up just having him rebuild it again anyway for piece of mind. As somewhat of an investment.
Knowing what I know now, I would have gladly left it with Mark from.the beginning.
Live and learn.
 
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Off topic of the thread but you can cap the vacuum port on the manifold that feeds the brake booster and see if that clears up the idle issue. I ran my dd 60 like that for years. I grew up driving non power brake/steering vehicles though.
 
Ultimately , impossible to know without disassembly.
 

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