- Thread starter
- #41
That is friggin’ clever, creative, resourceful and ingenious!
...now do mine.
'Taint hard to do. Took me about a half hour from start to finish.
Hood shock conversion writeup (with pics) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Spook50
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
'Taint hard to do. Took me about a half hour from start to finish.
ntsqd
technerd
FWIW the rough eqivalent McMaster-Carr part number looks to be 4138T56; these come with the ball sockets and studs already installed. As of this writing (9/2/08) they are $13.13 each.
Specs:
Extended (Max) Length: 17.13"
Compressed (Min) Length: 10.83"
Available Force rates: 15, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 90, & 120 lbs. (Specify at order)
HTH......
Specs:
Extended (Max) Length: 17.13"
Compressed (Min) Length: 10.83"
Available Force rates: 15, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 90, & 120 lbs. (Specify at order)
HTH......
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
Where you bought and which you choose .. ?
ntsqd
technerd
From mcmaster.com, based on the comments above I've ordered the 90 lbs force versions.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
Thanks .. you thought the 90 are enought ?
ntsqd
technerd
I did, but Mace's talk of launching cats made me switch them to 120's. If it's too much I'll just move the lower mount. If it's way too much then it's his fault and I'll have to order some lighter versions.
see, i have the problem as having an fj62, with those cheap little coil things to hold up the hood, i dont know about you other guys, but after about 20 years or so, they dont work as well as they used to...can it be done on the 62, probably have to make some holes...
The vehicle in the first post is a 62. He must have just removed those if they are only helper springs that are separate from the main hinges.
- Thread starter
- #50
Aye. I removed the springs (they're only there to assist with raising the hood, not to hold it up. That's why the prop is there on the front) and ground off the rivet that holds the hinge to the brackets (the ones that bold to the hood itself) so that I could attach the shock struts.
cool, i didnt see your signature....blonde moment, thanks, i gotta do this, that stupid thing that hold it up in the front keep falling off :/
euclid
SILVER Star
90 lbs is pleanty imo.
ntsqd
technerd
Now that I have 120's laying on the living room floor I think that I agree, 90's might have been fine. I have some concerns about getting the 70's Chevy truck hood syndrome. I'll put them in & report back.
ntsqd
technerd
You promised me cat mortars. I'm not too interesting flinging cats, but gray tree squirrels..........
Think I can build an assisted spud trebuchet with them?
Think I can build an assisted spud trebuchet with them?
120's will push the hood into the wiper arms when the hood is raised. 90 are plenty I would even consider 60's. 90's are redundant as one side will hold the hood up with 60's you do need both in good working order.
Dynosoar
Dynosoar
- Thread starter
- #58
It will with the plastic covers on the wiper pivots. Remove the covers and the struts will hold the hood at the limits for the hinges, without touching the wipers. My 120 lb. struts have a lot less force now that they're broken in than they did when new. Now it's a perfect balance for the weight of the hood (keeping in mind I have Dynamat Xtreme and Hoodliner on it, so that adds to the weight a good amount).
I am planning on doing this conversion tomorrow or monday I and thinking of putting a piece of hose or trim like from the door surround (ushaped) on the top of the hinge, that should hold the hood down a 1/4" so it wont touch my already brokend plastic covers,,,ill post if it goes well
ok I did my hood shock conversion and had some pointers,
on the passenger side, I removed the washer resevoir to get to the nut
on the drivers side I used a manget to hold the washer and the nut to get it started
I would consider going with the 15.23" total extended shocks 4138t55 in McMastercarr.com as just when I compressed my shocks during the install I broke another plastic wiper cover, I forgot to put the spacer on the hinge,,, anyone got an extra they want to mail me?
I went back and re-did mine, I did not like it resting on the windshield wiper. I used the hole on the passenger side as a guide for where I drilled the drivers side. There is a raised panel about 1.75 inches ahead of the hole noted in the first post. I believe I measured from the front bib something like 19.75 inches back and 1.75 inches down and drilled a hole, again the same distance as the passenger side hole with nut. On the passenger side there was a hole with a nut welded to the back of it, I probably should have drilled and tapped it for the 5/16th stud end I had on my shock, instead I drilled it then had to painfully and blindly dremel the rest of the nut off with my hand/arm backwards inside the fender/skirt area,,, trying not to cut any of the many wires I have routed inside there. Definatly a painful and not very fun way of spening a half an hour,, anyway it worked, it is about 1.5 inches more open than stock, but about 2 inches lower than the first mounting point. It does seem to not sling open as hard, and you have to open the hood more before the shocks take over the opening effect, but that has to do with the new geometry of moving the lower pivot point forward.
As another note, the 80 shock is mounted differently then the way this mod is done, not saying either is better, just different. I am very happy with this mod, thanks for the notes and info for me to get it done. I looked like a fool out there opening and closing and opening and closing my hood sunday,,,it is just neat!!
Also, I did not have to wrestle with compressing the shock to mount it on the ball joint.
on the passenger side, I removed the washer resevoir to get to the nut
on the drivers side I used a manget to hold the washer and the nut to get it started
I would consider going with the 15.23" total extended shocks 4138t55 in McMastercarr.com as just when I compressed my shocks during the install I broke another plastic wiper cover, I forgot to put the spacer on the hinge,,, anyone got an extra they want to mail me?
I went back and re-did mine, I did not like it resting on the windshield wiper. I used the hole on the passenger side as a guide for where I drilled the drivers side. There is a raised panel about 1.75 inches ahead of the hole noted in the first post. I believe I measured from the front bib something like 19.75 inches back and 1.75 inches down and drilled a hole, again the same distance as the passenger side hole with nut. On the passenger side there was a hole with a nut welded to the back of it, I probably should have drilled and tapped it for the 5/16th stud end I had on my shock, instead I drilled it then had to painfully and blindly dremel the rest of the nut off with my hand/arm backwards inside the fender/skirt area,,, trying not to cut any of the many wires I have routed inside there. Definatly a painful and not very fun way of spening a half an hour,, anyway it worked, it is about 1.5 inches more open than stock, but about 2 inches lower than the first mounting point. It does seem to not sling open as hard, and you have to open the hood more before the shocks take over the opening effect, but that has to do with the new geometry of moving the lower pivot point forward.
As another note, the 80 shock is mounted differently then the way this mod is done, not saying either is better, just different. I am very happy with this mod, thanks for the notes and info for me to get it done. I looked like a fool out there opening and closing and opening and closing my hood sunday,,,it is just neat!!
Also, I did not have to wrestle with compressing the shock to mount it on the ball joint.
Last edited:
