HJ60 hatch lock fix writeup (1 Viewer)

[Honka]

Hi all, pdf attached that is an explain of how I fixed my hatch lock.

Also, apologies to those forum users who helped me in the past and I didn't get back to. Covid and other bad cirumstances got in the way of normality.

Get a coffee and enjoy the read.

cheers,
Honka

 

[CruiserTrash]

Does the hatch lock on your truck control the rear (cargo area) dome light?

 

[Honka]

Hi Trash, no light involvement. You saying that though, I did ponder whether anything else was meant to be "optional" into the hole that the torsion spring is in. Just seemed so much trouble taken to make a space that was sort of easily accessible. Didn't think of a switch mech, but perhaps it is an option?

 

[CruiserTrash]

Here in the US our cargo area dome light is controlled by a switch inside of that latch mechanism. It often stops working because the workings get gummed up. Of course it’s riveted together so it’s impossible to see how the mechanism works. I’ve flushed my latch out with loads of brake cleaner and such, and the light works 80% of the time. It would be nice to figure out how it works so it can be fixed right though.

 

[Honka]

Change it to a simple push switch in the main body frame? Like most cars do...instead of some stooopid complex thing in the mech that gets thumped every time it's used!

 

[CruiserTrash]

Change it to a simple push switch in the main body frame? Like most cars do...instead of some stooopid complex thing in the mech that gets thumped every time it's used!

It has three settings - on/off/switched-on, with "switched-on" coming from the door latch mechanism. It can still be turned on and off manually. It would just be nice to have the original factory functionality 100% restored.

 

[Honka]

I was meaning imitate the latch switch with a push mounted in the main frame that is opened by the hatch closing.

 

[dbbowen]

Here in the US our cargo area dome light is controlled by a switch inside of that latch mechanism. It often stops working because the workings get gummed up. Of course it’s riveted together so it’s impossible to see how the mechanism works. I’ve flushed my latch out with loads of brake cleaner and such, and the light works 80% of the time. It would be nice to figure out how it works so it can be fixed right though.

dude ive done the same and the best i can get it is that if you hold the button in while the hatch is up for like 5 seconds it will stay on. Ive used enough brake cleaner to submerge it, as well as a ton of 99% Iso alcohol and thats the best i could get it. Before i cleaned it up it didnt work at all so its a little bit of an improvement

 

[CruiserTrash]

I was meaning imitate the latch switch with a push mounted in the main frame that is opened by the hatch closing.

Eh, that’s not a bad idea.

@dbbowen Have tried tried hitting it? Seriously, the 20% of the time mine doesn’t work I just give it a two and it comes on.

 

[dbbowen]

Eh, that’s not a bad idea.

@dbbowen Have tried tried hitting it? Seriously, the 20% of the time mine doesn’t work I just give it a two and it comes on.

You know. I’ve never tried giving it the ole Fonzie treatment. One of these days I’m going to try and source a new latch or something

 

[Honka]

It has occurred to me that perhaps it's not your switch at all. Have you tried doing a dedicated earth line from the hatch mech to the body? Without seeing a switch layout, I'm assuming that it is simply moving a contact to earth when the latch strike is open. Of course it could be the switch is dirty/worn/broken/rooted, but if the entire hatch is dirty and possibly corroded at hinges etc, which is highly likely, then you need better earthing from the mech to the body. Hitting it like above might simply be making a better earth somewhere.

 

[CruiserTrash]

It has occurred to me that perhaps it's not your switch at all. Have you tried doing a dedicated earth line from the hatch mech to the body? Without seeing a switch layout, I'm assuming that it is simply moving a contact to earth when the latch strike is open. Of course it could be the switch is dirty/worn/broken/rooted, but if the entire hatch is dirty and possibly corroded at hinges etc, which is highly likely, then you need better earthing from the mech to the body. Hitting it like above might simply be making a better earth somewhere.

Interesting theory. There is no separate ground wire coming off the latch anywhere, so it’s grounded through the bolt threads to the hatch … meaning that it grounds to the body via the hint bolts. All of my hinge bolts look good but you never know.

I suppose in Oz your cargo area dome light has a simple 2-position on/off switch, as opposed to our 3-position on/off/door switch, eh? I have seen two part numbers for that piece, so that would make sense. I believe both are still available new from Toyota.

I’m kind of interested in getting a spare latch, drilling the rivets out, and fixing the guts as you did…