Builds HJ61 Cruiser build

[TLC Norway]

I took the time to loosen up the turbo, and get a thin plastic sheet in between the manifold and turbo before drill and tap.
I was suprised at how thin the manifold was at this point, maybe 3-4mm...
Blew the little shavings out with air.

Now bolting everything back up and fill new coolant. Even though the old one was crystal clear
(It's going into the earthmover, I'm not that rich)

Tonight I'll take her for a spin to log the temperatures with stock fuel and boost.

 

[TLC Norway]

Everything is back in place, except the heat shield where i did the tap.
Man, those 14mm locknuts turbo to manifold is a pain to tighten down, i think i'll order new studs and nuts,
as i dont think they are supposed to be reused.
I wanna keep an eye on the tap hole and the probe for a while, check for exhaust leaks/cracks.

Seems like i have a small air boost/pressure leak whenever i pass 4psi, have to track that down.
Did a quick test run, now it only builds 0.5-6 bar due to the leak.
On a long and steep hill i reach max 550 deg C on the exhaust, so no worries yet.
I have another hill in mind for tomorrow.

Gauges turned out great, just a tad bright for me... Dont know if I can change the colour of the light in them either, should be able to switch to red.
Digital stepper motor Autogauge, seems legit. Need to pull a rag over everything

EDIT: -Oh, and i added the dual usb bluesea connector under the stereo. I'ts soldered into the 24v cig circuit with a small inline 5a fuse. Not the best spot, its just wedged in there, will move it down with the temp gauge later on.

 

[dkyuss]

Lookin good! Examine any OEM or aftermarket hoses and connections for leaks/holes RE the losses after 4psi.

You should be able to find a led cover (red ideally) for fit over the lamp in those gauges either from the OEM or someplace like this
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/optoelectronics/optics-leds-lamps-lenses/525154

 

[TLC Norway]

Well, I will attempt to assist on the electrical. Anything need clarifying please ask!


What year are these seats?

I found some info here BMW Heated seats

With 24V setup, you would need 2 heaters in series, only one grounded...
24VDC+----(12V heater)-----(12Vheater)-----0VD(GND)

This would work well if both seat and back were separate heaters as they could be wired like this. NOTE that BOTH heaters would always turn on and off together. You can not run just one of the 12Vheaters off your 24V supply, always 2.

Temp sensor is likely just a restive bi-metalic probe. Its resistance will vary based on temperature and the resistance curve will likely fit into a standard curve (ie type K or J thermocouple). You probably don't need to worry about this.

PWM is Pulse Width Modulation. I think we are all familiar with the typical AC sine wave and what it looks like.... PWM is a SQUARE wave, where the voltage near instantaneously rises to say 5V, stays on for a certain period of time, and then drops to 0V for a certain period of time. The ON time vs the OFF time is what is referred to the pulse width. Generally much faster frequency too, in KiloHz ranges.

So the heaters on your seats are likely just after a transistor or triac that acts as an electrical switch and this switch is enabled with the PWM signal is ON. This wire is likely smaller as little current travels through it, it simply enables current flow through the heater circuit. When connected to the PWM signal, the heat produced is directly proportional to the width of the ON vs OFF time of the pulse.

I am guessing that if the PWM wire in the seats was jumpered on (100% PWM duty cycle) the heat would be on full and you could manually flick the switch when your heiny is too hot/cold.

Other than that you *may* need a small micro-controller to get proper control of the seats. Maybe this is part of the dash switch assembly in the BMW and can be purchased from a wrecker? Or you will need a small arduino (or similar micro controller) to generate the PWM signal.


Sounds like a fun project!

EDIT : Lots more info here DIY: Non-Heated to Heated Seat Retrofit!! Lots of Pics!!! - E46Fanatics

Thanks alot for your thorough reply, Dkyuss!
I was hoping someone with your knowledge would chime in!

-I thought these seats were newer, but after some research i find them to be very similar to a 99 or 00' 7 series bmw. (E39...?)
very much like these, without the knee extention, plus i have back pocket. same connector too: BMW SPORT SEATS SEAT E38 E39 540i 740i 530i 750iL 528i 525i 535i 523i 530d BLACK

And from what i have read, these heaters are HOT, as in very hot.
So i will try my best to hook them up like factory, with a 3 speed setting hi,med,lo.
I guess that rules out the chance of hooking them up in series on 24v.

Which adds another element, i should probably have a separate converter just for the seats.
I love using heated seats, better for my back condition, and i would probably use them like 9 months a year.

From what i have found on Bimmerfest (Picture & amperage & description of every single fuse & relay in the BMW E39) the fuses are:

F10 = 30A, Passenger seat adjustment
F13 = 30A, Driver seat adjustment, Steering columnadjustment
F21 = 5A, Anti-glare inside mirror, Driver seat adjustment, Garage door opener
F32 = 25A, Active seat, Electric seat heating, Roller sun blind

I did not find anything about any relays regarding seats.

-all in glove compartment area of the bimmer...
thats what i should size my converter after, but right now i'm just running the seat motors (for all adjustment on a 15A fuse through my 30A converter.

Am i correct to say the PWM will be either in the seat or in the switch...?
I can probably source down the original switch, but i dont know yet if there is something else in the bmw harness to control them.
i think this would be the right one: BMW E39 7 SERIES DSC HEATED SEAT CURTAIN SWITCH 97 98 99 00 01 61318380265


Maybe i should try to get that unit, and the plug that would hook up to the seat....

 

[TLC Norway]

Lookin good! Examine any OEM or aftermarket hoses and connections for leaks/holes RE the losses after 4psi.

You should be able to find a led cover (red ideally) for fit over the lamp in those gauges either from the OEM or someplace like this
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/optoelectronics/optics-leds-lamps-lenses/525154

Yeah, It just got too dark for me, so i'll check for leaks tomorrow.

thanks for the lens link, i'll see if something can fit.
I cant remove the bulb itself without dissecting the gauge, hence breaking guarantee...

 

[Mr Tibbs]

Yeah, knowing EGT right before inlet is the most interesting spot for me to measure.
Do you have it post? What numbers do you read?

All my cruisers have been LHD, so is this. But when i drove a friends rhd hilux, i was supprised at how easy the transition was.

No EGT for me yet, it's on the list. When I do get one it will go post turbo. Seems to be easier to install and the numbers should be solid.

 

[dkyuss]

Thanks alot for your thorough reply, Dkyuss!
I was hoping someone with your knowledge would chime in!

-I thought these seats were newer, but after some research i find them to be very similar to a 99 or 00' 7 series bmw. (E39...?)
very much like these, without the knee extention, plus i have back pocket. same connector too: BMW SPORT SEATS SEAT E38 E39 540i 740i 530i 750iL 528i 525i 535i 523i 530d BLACK

And from what i have read, these heaters are HOT, as in very hot.
So i will try my best to hook them up like factory, with a 3 speed setting hi,med,lo.
I guess that rules out the chance of hooking them up in series on 24v.

Which adds another element, i should probably have a separate converter just for the seats.
I love using heated seats, better for my back condition, and i would probably use them like 9 months a year.

From what i have found on Bimmerfest (Picture & amperage & description of every single fuse & relay in the BMW E39) the fuses are:

F10 = 30A, Passenger seat adjustment
F13 = 30A, Driver seat adjustment, Steering columnadjustment
F21 = 5A, Anti-glare inside mirror, Driver seat adjustment, Garage door opener
F32 = 25A, Active seat, Electric seat heating, Roller sun blind

I did not find anything about any relays regarding seats.

-all in glove compartment area of the bimmer...
thats what i should size my converter after, but right now i'm just running the seat motors (for all adjustment on a 15A fuse through my 30A converter.

Am i correct to say the PWM will be either in the seat or in the switch...?
I can probably source down the original switch, but i dont know yet if there is something else in the bmw harness to control them.
i think this would be the right one: BMW E39 7 SERIES DSC HEATED SEAT CURTAIN SWITCH 97 98 99 00 01 61318380265


Maybe i should try to get that unit, and the plug that would hook up to the seat....

Getting the seat switch unit is likely going to be the easiest option. It appears that the 'switch' is actually a microcontroller and does produce the PWM signal among other things. My only concern is that all drawings Ive seen also show a K-bus connection to this unit, which I assume? is a BMW proprietary communications bus. It is possible that this module may not function without a K-bus connection but I have no idea on this?

I cant get my Java to work here but supposedly drawings are available here WDS BMW Wiring Diagram System - Model Selection

More info Retrofit Heated Seats without BMW Loom. WIP - E39 1996-2004

Some more description From about half way down here M Sport Seat Install - Need some wiring help - PHOTOS

"
Seat heating
The seat heating system heats the seat cushion area and backrest. The electronics for controlling the selected heating temperature (3 stages) and fault monitoring are integrated in the switching center.

Function
Seat heating can be switched on in three heating stages as from terminal 15 by pressing the button. Three LEDs built into the switching center light to indicate operation. "Terminal 15 active" is signalled to the switching center via the K-bus.

Initially, heating stage 1 is activated when the seat heating is switched on (button pressed once). The seat surface is heated up to approx. 44 °C. All three LEDs light to indicate operation.

By pressing the button once more, the topmost LED goes out and heating stage 2 is activated. The seat is now only heated up to 39 °C.

The seat heating system is switched to heating stage 3 by pressing the button once again. The bottom-most LED lights. The seat is heated up to 35 °C.

The seat heating is switched off by pressing the button once again or switching off the ignition. The seat heating can also be switched off in any heating stage by pressing the push button for longer than 1 second.

The seats are heated by means of carbon fibre heating mats in the main section and steel wires (steel filaments) in the bolster. A carbon fibre heating mat is installed in both the seat cushion section as well as in the backrest. The center sections of the seat and backrest as well as the bolsters of the seat and backrest are always heated. Heating filaments or carbon fibre mats are additionally integrated in the thigh support on sports seats. The seat and backrest bolsters are not heated on the series E39 sports seat with fabric cover.

The temperature is measured by a temperature sensor in the seat upholstery and passed on to switching center.

Monitoring functions
Battery voltage
The electronic seat heating control switches off the power supply to the heating mats if the battery voltage in the vehicle is less than 11.4 V ±0.3 V. The function LEDs however remain on. Power supply to the heating mats is restored when the battery voltage is greater than 12.2 V ±0.3 V for at least 5 seconds.

PC-Board temperature
Due to the fact that the power input of the seat heating system is very high (120 W), the temperature of the pc-board in the switching center is monitored by temperature sensors. Initially, the heating power is reduced as the temperature increases to over 85 °C. The heating is switched off if the pc-board temperature exceeds 95 °C. The function LEDs however remain on. The seat heating cuts in automatically again when the pc-board temperature drops below 85 °C.

Fault monitoring
The electronic seat heating control system monitors the temperature sensor and heating mats for faults. Detected faults are stored in the fault code memory of the switching center.

The following faults can be recognized:

•Short-circuit or line break

•Short-circuit or line break of temperature sensors

•Break in heating mats

If a break or short occurs at the temperature sensor, the seat heating is switched off in order to prevent overheating. The function LEDs are switched off.


Current measurement, seat heating
The current is measured in order to be able to provide a basic statement with regard to a defect in the seat heating system.

Measurement preparation
On vehicles equipped with a switching center in the center console, the current is measured directly at the switching center.

•Switch off seat heating

•Remove center console switching center (A169)

•Measurement is carried out with a 50 A clip-on ammeter

•Unwind insulating tape from wiring harness under seat and attach clip-on ammeter to the wire to be measures.

•Left seat heating: Measurement on HZFA wire (white/yellow, pin 1)
Right seat heating: Measurement on HZBF wire (white/green, pin 13)

•Start engine in order to ensure a system voltage of approx. 13.8 V

System voltage

If the system voltage drops below 11.4 V, the LEDs remain lit but the seat heating is switched off. The seat heating is re-activated as soon as a voltage of at least 12.2 V is permanently applied.

Measurement at DIS tester
•Select "measurement system"

•Measurement function: Current 50 A

•Measurement connection: Clip-on ammeter

•Type of measurement: Direct current =

•Measuring range: +/- 50 A

•Check system voltage with DIS tester

•Switch on seat heater on the side to be measured

Measurement evaluation
Generally applicable for all heating stages: Each heating stage has a certain setpoint temperature. The control unit attempts to reach this temperature as fast as possible. The temperature is the kept constant by means of clocking (= pulsating direct current).

•Generally, the current is approx. 10 A during the heating-up phase (at a system voltage of 13.8 V)

•The heating output is reduced on approaching the setpoint temperature. The clocking function can now be distinctly recognized, i.e. the current pulsates between 0 and approx. 10 A.

•On finally reaching the setpoint temperature, the interval of the 0 A range is extended even longer.

•If the current temperature is higher than the setpoint temperature, e.g. when, after a longer period of operation, the heating is switched back from stage 1 (3 LEDs) to stage 3 (1 LED), no current is applied until the temperature has again dropped to the corresponding setpoint temperature.

Heating-up seat

The duration of the heating-up phase is dependent on the temperature measured at the temperature sensor! The setpoint temperature is reached more quickly at high ambient temperatures (e.g. in summer) or if the seat is preheated. In this case, the clocking cuts in correspondingly earlier.

Measured power

The measured power depends on many different factors. Both the level of the system voltage as well as the type of seat installed and operation of other loads (seat heating on other side, steering wheel heating) play a significant role. The specified value of 10 A is therefore only a reference value.

Setpoint temperatures
The following setpoint temperatures are reached in the three-stage seat heating system:

•Stage 1 operation (3 LEDs lit):
The seat is heated to a setpoint temperature of 35 °C

•Stage 2 operation (2 LEDs lit):
The seat is heated to a setpoint temperature of 39 °C

•Stage 3 operation (1 LED lit):
The seat is heated to a setpoint temperature of 44 °C

Measurement evaluation
•A current of approx. 10 A is applied:
The seat heating is OK

•A current of approx. 5 A is applied:
Defect in heating mat of seat cushion or seat backrest

•No current is applied:
Defect in heating mat of seat cushion and seat backrest"

 

[dkyuss]

Yeah, It just got too dark for me, so i'll check for leaks tomorrow.

thanks for the lens link, i'll see if something can fit.
I cant remove the bulb itself without dissecting the gauge, hence breaking guarantee...

Is the light a separate power connector? Could always add a 100ohm resistor or a potentiometer (variable resistor) in series with the lighting circuit for dimming.

 

[TLC Norway]

Is the light a separate power connector? Could always add a 100ohm resistor or a potentiometer (variable resistor) in series with the lighting circuit for dimming.

A potentiometer would be awsome. Dont know if that would work with this one... It's wired like this:

So the two power wire slots are in bridge, i just made a short cable going to the next gauge so they are in paralell.
And since i have to power these through the 24/12 converter, red,white and orange is all linked and hooked to the switched 12v source.
Without power to the orange (dimmer) i swear i could have used the gauges as headlights.
What do you think, @dkyuss ?

maybe the old school analog solution would work, a few layers of some dark window tint... ;p


On another note, i gotta prep the 16x6 stock steelies for the 255/85s coming in a week or so.
I've seen alot of theese wheels in black, white, and different graytones. I'm looking for a bronze, but i cant find the paint around here.
White cruiser, bronze rims, flat black details. I think it'll work!
Snorkel is on its way together with some winch accessories and a few service items.

 

[dkyuss]

A potentiometer would be awsome. Dont know if that would work with this one... It's wired like this:
View attachment 1145877

So the two power wire slots are in bridge, i just made a short cable going to the next gauge so they are in paralell.
And since i have to power these through the 24/12 converter, red,white and orange is all linked and hooked to the switched 12v source.
Without power to the orange (dimmer) i swear i could have used the gauges as headlights.
What do you think, @dkyuss ?

maybe the old school analog solution would work, a few layers of some dark window tint... ;p


On another note, i gotta prep the 16x6 stock steelies for the 255/85s coming in a week or so.
I've seen alot of theese wheels in black, white, and different graytones. I'm looking for a bronze, but i cant find the paint around here.
White cruiser, bronze rims, flat black details. I think it'll work!
Snorkel is on its way together with some winch accessories and a few service items.

To clarify, the orange is connected to 12VDC and it does dim the gauges, but not enough? In this case you may need to just cut out some circles of widow tint (red?)! Them LED's be bright!

 

[TLC Norway]

Yeah, the Orange is also connected, but it only drops the brightness like 10%...
Way too bright for me, I'll post a video later on when I have dialed her in.

I'm out testing boost and fuel increase now.
I'm getting 0.6 now after one shim on wastegate. The sound i thought was pressure leak seems to be more directly related to throttle/rpm. Like a whine...
Need to find out what it is.

Have to work hard to get the egt above 500c. That's like 930F i think.
No smoke on load.
Will give it half a turn of fuel.

 

[mcguirejohnson]

Nice gauge install! That is next on my list. How hard was it to pull the turbo back? I wonder if greasing the bit would be significant enough?

I'm wishing now that I had tapped the manifold while it was out of the rig, but i was strapped for cash buying gaskets... Oh well you made it look pretty easy so I feel better about it.

Also a little off topic, but how many miles (or KMs) does your 12ht have on it? Has it been rebuilt?

 

[TLC Norway]

Nice gauge install! That is next on my list. How hard was it to pull the turbo back? I wonder if greasing the bit would be significant enough?

I'm wishing now that I had tapped the manifold while it was out of the rig, but i was strapped for cash buying gaskets... Oh well you made it look pretty easy so I feel better about it.

Also a little off topic, but how many miles (or KMs) does your 12ht have on it? Has it been rebuilt?

The turbo pulls down/sideways, look at the manifold stud direction. The hardest part was getting the two bolts near the block on and off. 14mm studs with little room to spare. If you can leave the car sitting for a few days, soak all bolts on penetrating oil, several times.
I only broke one bolt, one of the many holding the manifold heat shield.
Crossover pipes are easy.
Oil feed banjo bolt comes out, dont loose the two copper seals.
Dump heat shield has a rear bolt that has to come off, side bolt loosens and you can swing the heat shield out of the way to get to the turbo/manifold rear bolts.
From underneath, its the support bracket that has to go off, three easy 17mm bolts.
I also loosened the water banjo to block 14mm, and the drain assembly behind the support bracket (two 12mm)
The two 12mm's on the oil return i took off to feel how much flex that return pipe has, it's not alot, and its only this and the exhaust holding the turbo in place.

Then i just wedged the turbo down, slid a plastic sheet in between the manifolds, and got to work.
Got the camera in there to verify that the baffle is in fact in the center of the manifold, so i tapped in front of that.

I would order up those 4 studs and nuts and change them, as threading the old nuts back on was a real pita.
I actually think that's where my leak is now, the whistle sound is probably from the three steel gaskets in there.

Now it has passed 555 555km (aprox 350k miles) and still running strong, really steady.
I cant guarantee the km's, but the engine looks real stock, not rebuilt. All gaskets, nuts and bits, hose clamps and such look stock.
Only the oil pan gasket is something i can see has been worked on.

My average consumption is between 0,9 (no load) and 1,1 L/10km. (fully loaded) plus a little if i run the RTT. (28 mpg?)
@mcguirejohnson have you tracked the numbers on yours?

I'll see how much the numbers change now when i can add some fuel and boost.
Still cant do much with that air/exhaust leak somewhere...

 

[TLC Norway]

Getting the seat switch unit is likely going to be the easiest option. It appears that the 'switch' is actually a microcontroller and does produce the PWM signal among other things. My only concern is that all drawings Ive seen also show a K-bus connection to this unit, which I assume? is a BMW proprietary communications bus. It is possible that this module may not function without a K-bus connection but I have no idea on this?

I cant get my Java to work here but supposedly drawings are available here WDS BMW Wiring Diagram System - Model Selection

More info Retrofit Heated Seats without BMW Loom. WIP - E39 1996-2004

Some more description From about half way down here M Sport Seat Install - Need some wiring help - PHOTOS

"
Seat heating
The seat heating system heats the seat cushion area and backrest. The electronics for controlling the selected heating temperature (3 stages) and fault monitoring are integrated in the switching center.

Function
Seat heating can be switched on in three heating stages as from terminal 15 by pressing the button. Three LEDs built into the switching center light to indicate operation. "Terminal 15 active" is signalled to the switching center via the K-bus.

Initially, heating stage 1 is activated when the seat heating is switched on (button pressed once). The seat surface is heated up to approx. 44 °C. All three LEDs light to indicate operation.

By pressing the button once more, the topmost LED goes out and heating stage 2 is activated. The seat is now only heated up to 39 °C.

The seat heating system is switched to heating stage 3 by pressing the button once again. The bottom-most LED lights. The seat is heated up to 35 °C.

The seat heating is switched off by pressing the button once again or switching off the ignition. The seat heating can also be switched off in any heating stage by pressing the push button for longer than 1 second.

The seats are heated by means of carbon fibre heating mats in the main section and steel wires (steel filaments) in the bolster. A carbon fibre heating mat is installed in both the seat cushion section as well as in the backrest. The center sections of the seat and backrest as well as the bolsters of the seat and backrest are always heated. Heating filaments or carbon fibre mats are additionally integrated in the thigh support on sports seats. The seat and backrest bolsters are not heated on the series E39 sports seat with fabric cover.

The temperature is measured by a temperature sensor in the seat upholstery and passed on to switching center.

Monitoring functions
Battery voltage
The electronic seat heating control switches off the power supply to the heating mats if the battery voltage in the vehicle is less than 11.4 V ±0.3 V. The function LEDs however remain on. Power supply to the heating mats is restored when the battery voltage is greater than 12.2 V ±0.3 V for at least 5 seconds.

PC-Board temperature
Due to the fact that the power input of the seat heating system is very high (120 W), the temperature of the pc-board in the switching center is monitored by temperature sensors. Initially, the heating power is reduced as the temperature increases to over 85 °C. The heating is switched off if the pc-board temperature exceeds 95 °C. The function LEDs however remain on. The seat heating cuts in automatically again when the pc-board temperature drops below 85 °C.

Fault monitoring
The electronic seat heating control system monitors the temperature sensor and heating mats for faults. Detected faults are stored in the fault code memory of the switching center.

The following faults can be recognized:

•Short-circuit or line break

•Short-circuit or line break of temperature sensors

•Break in heating mats

If a break or short occurs at the temperature sensor, the seat heating is switched off in order to prevent overheating. The function LEDs are switched off.


Current measurement, seat heating
The current is measured in order to be able to provide a basic statement with regard to a defect in the seat heating system.

Measurement preparation
On vehicles equipped with a switching center in the center console, the current is measured directly at the switching center.

•Switch off seat heating

•Remove center console switching center (A169)

•Measurement is carried out with a 50 A clip-on ammeter

•Unwind insulating tape from wiring harness under seat and attach clip-on ammeter to the wire to be measures.

•Left seat heating: Measurement on HZFA wire (white/yellow, pin 1)
Right seat heating: Measurement on HZBF wire (white/green, pin 13)

•Start engine in order to ensure a system voltage of approx. 13.8 V

System voltage

If the system voltage drops below 11.4 V, the LEDs remain lit but the seat heating is switched off. The seat heating is re-activated as soon as a voltage of at least 12.2 V is permanently applied.

Measurement at DIS tester
•Select "measurement system"

•Measurement function: Current 50 A

•Measurement connection: Clip-on ammeter

•Type of measurement: Direct current =

•Measuring range: +/- 50 A

•Check system voltage with DIS tester

•Switch on seat heater on the side to be measured

Measurement evaluation
Generally applicable for all heating stages: Each heating stage has a certain setpoint temperature. The control unit attempts to reach this temperature as fast as possible. The temperature is the kept constant by means of clocking (= pulsating direct current).

•Generally, the current is approx. 10 A during the heating-up phase (at a system voltage of 13.8 V)

•The heating output is reduced on approaching the setpoint temperature. The clocking function can now be distinctly recognized, i.e. the current pulsates between 0 and approx. 10 A.

•On finally reaching the setpoint temperature, the interval of the 0 A range is extended even longer.

•If the current temperature is higher than the setpoint temperature, e.g. when, after a longer period of operation, the heating is switched back from stage 1 (3 LEDs) to stage 3 (1 LED), no current is applied until the temperature has again dropped to the corresponding setpoint temperature.

Heating-up seat

The duration of the heating-up phase is dependent on the temperature measured at the temperature sensor! The setpoint temperature is reached more quickly at high ambient temperatures (e.g. in summer) or if the seat is preheated. In this case, the clocking cuts in correspondingly earlier.

Measured power

The measured power depends on many different factors. Both the level of the system voltage as well as the type of seat installed and operation of other loads (seat heating on other side, steering wheel heating) play a significant role. The specified value of 10 A is therefore only a reference value.

Setpoint temperatures
The following setpoint temperatures are reached in the three-stage seat heating system:

•Stage 1 operation (3 LEDs lit):
The seat is heated to a setpoint temperature of 35 °C

•Stage 2 operation (2 LEDs lit):
The seat is heated to a setpoint temperature of 39 °C

•Stage 3 operation (1 LED lit):
The seat is heated to a setpoint temperature of 44 °C

Measurement evaluation
•A current of approx. 10 A is applied:
The seat heating is OK

•A current of approx. 5 A is applied:
Defect in heating mat of seat cushion or seat backrest

•No current is applied:
Defect in heating mat of seat cushion and seat backrest"

Again, thanks! Now, this tells me each seat pulls about 10A during heat up phase, then cuts in and out to maintain heat. will it then pull 10A per interval, or a voltage regulation to maintain heat?

Im gonna check with a parts guy an hour away, he has lots of bmw stash. Sounds like the heating in these seats are serious too

About the k-bus, could that just be one wire (per seat) so i have to at least wire up three leads per seat to the switch/controller.

 

[mcguirejohnson]

The turbo pulls down/sideways, look at the manifold stud direction. The hardest part was getting the two bolts near the block on and off. 14mm studs with little room to spare. If you can leave the car sitting for a few days, soak all bolts on penetrating oil, several times.
I only broke one bolt, one of the many holding the manifold heat shield.
Crossover pipes are easy.
Oil feed banjo bolt comes out, dont loose the two copper seals.
Dump heat shield has a rear bolt that has to come off, side bolt loosens and you can swing the heat shield out of the way to get to the turbo/manifold rear bolts.
From underneath, its the support bracket that has to go off, three easy 17mm bolts.
I also loosened the water banjo to block 14mm, and the drain assembly behind the support bracket (two 12mm)
The two 12mm's on the oil return i took off to feel how much flex that return pipe has, it's not alot, and its only this and the exhaust holding the turbo in place.
View attachment 1146456

Then i just wedged the turbo down, slid a plastic sheet in between the manifolds, and got to work.
Got the camera in there to verify that the baffle is in fact in the center of the manifold, so i tapped in front of that.

I would order up those 4 studs and nuts and change them, as threading the old nuts back on was a real pita.
I actually think that's where my leak is now, the whistle sound is probably from the three steel gaskets in there.

Now it has passed 555 555km (aprox 350k miles) and still running strong, really steady.
I cant guarantee the km's, but the engine looks real stock, not rebuilt. All gaskets, nuts and bits, hose clamps and such look stock.
Only the oil pan gasket is something i can see has been worked on.

My average consumption is between 0,9 (no load) and 1,1 L/10km. (fully loaded) plus a little if i run the RTT. (28 mpg?)
@mcguirejohnson have you tracked the numbers on yours?

I'll see how much the numbers change now when i can add some fuel and boost.
Still cant do much with that air/exhaust leak somewhere...

Thank you for the info on the Turbo! I yanked it off to change the manifold gaskets as well as the turbo to manifold gasket, but I know while its in the car its going to be a whole new animal.

Ah the baffle, I remember seeing that when I had the manifold off. It is dead center on the manifold correct?

Ya these are tough old blocks. I was going into the whole deal with the mindset of probably having to do a rebuild but when I had it apart, it was so clean! I have the gauge cluster from the donor HJ61 and it had around 225,000Km on the clock so around 150-160,000 miles. Barely broken in!

Dang those are great mpg #'s! The best that I have gotten so far is 19.4, and that is with the 4:56 gears, bumpers, sliders, and all of my crap in the back... I have only put around 850 miles on the swap so we shall see if in time they improve. I would like to be getting 20 plus just because it sounds good. I think with my gearing once I get 37s the RPMs will calm down a bit (I'm at around 2,800RPM while cruising 75mph or 120 kilometers per hour). I know you have 35s, but do you have stock gearing? 4:11s?

And well now that I have an exhaust I won't have to worry as much about the heat getting trapped in the engine compartment (I was running a dump pipe), so that will enable me to push the distance some more.

I hope you locate that boost leak... could it be where your boost gauge is tapped in?

 

[dkyuss]

Again, thanks! Now, this tells me each seat pulls about 10A during heat up phase, then cuts in and out to maintain heat. will it then pull 10A per interval, or a voltage regulation to maintain heat?

Im gonna check with a parts guy an hour away, he has lots of bmw stash. Sounds like the heating in these seats are serious too

About the k-bus, could that just be one wire (per seat) so i have to at least wire up three leads per seat to the switch/controller.

I would expect it to draw 10A whenever the PWM is enabled. It will pulse the amps once the seat is heated but amps should always be 10.

I am out of my knowledge zone on the K-bus (it does look like one wire, so a serial data interface). I only assume it is a communication protocol like canbus, profibus but it is simply a guess. This assumes there is a main ECU in the BMW that communicates with the seat switch module through the K-bus. Hopefully the module will work without this connection as it sounds like temp control and diagnostics are internal to the switch module. Worst case, the module goes into some error mode if the K-bus is not connected/functioning.

Maybe your BMW parts guy might know some further details? Other thing I noticed is googling those seats, everything I seen was a install into another BMW that would have the k-bus.... Maybe I didn't look hard enough though.

 

[TLC Norway]

about milage... dont know if i put this out here before, but here it is, clocking in 555 555,5km! (about a month ago)
A happy moment behind the wheel, that's 13,9 times around the equator!!



And here is yesterdays shot of the gauges while still at stock fuel and boost settings. (and the leak, you can barely hear the sound)
-video of the Boost and EGT 3rd-4th gear 10% uphill.
Maxes out at 700 degC in 3rd at 3000rpm. (is that near 1300F?)
Stock boost at 0,6/7 bar.
In 4th gear at 2000rpm at 80km/t with 3.7 diffs and 35's rubber it hangs around at 640-680 degC with that much load.

 

[TLC Norway]

Thank you for the info on the Turbo! I yanked it off to change the manifold gaskets as well as the turbo to manifold gasket, but I know while its in the car its going to be a whole new animal.

Ah the baffle, I remember seeing that when I had the manifold off. It is dead center on the manifold correct?

...I know you have 35s, but do you have stock gearing? 4:11s?

I hope you locate that boost leak... could it be where your boost gauge is tapped in?

Yes, the baffle is dead center, and maybe 6-7mm thick. Right under the center heat shield bolt.

...I do have stock gearing, witch over here is 3.7... Right now i'm sticking with that, since i'm going down to 255/85r16's which will be a 33.4x10 or so. It should improve my fuel expenses too Will be killer expensive to regear these cable locker diffs, well a tad pricier than open diffs.

I did find my leak today, put transfer in neutral, gear in 5th, tied up the clutch fan and set the hand throttle to 2000rpm!
Felt around for leaks, and i could feel a small push around the turbo manifold.
Loosened up the dump heat shield, and snugged the nuts up another 1/4 turn, DID THE TRICK!!

I will experiment a bit more with shimming the wastegate bracket tomorrow. i'll go for 1.1bar first, and see how that feels.

 

[TLC Norway]

Maybe your BMW parts guy might know some further details? Other thing I noticed is googling those seats, everything I seen was a install into another BMW that would have the k-bus.... Maybe I didn't look hard enough though.

Called him up today, and he had just sold out whatever i would need. i tried describing the setup for him, but theese guys dont push their seats into other rigs, just bimmers. So he wasnt very helpful when i explained my mission, HA!
I'm struggling to find good answers to how this is all hooked up, cant find a good circuit drawing to make me wiser either...
Not many that has wired up their bmw heated seats in other cars than bmw's it seems!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

700*c is right about 1300*f. That's pretty hot! I wouldn't run her much hotter than that.