Did you try adjusting with the dial indicator or did you stick with feeler gauges?
Builds HJ61 Cruiser build
- Thread starter TLC Norway
- Start date
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TLC Norway
woodwelder
- Thread starter
- #482
Went for a test run after tuning both antennas, second one on the LJ73. She made a bracket and routed the cable nicely. Good location to mount on this rig, the old spare tire mount.
About 11km clear connection, in prettyhilly terrain.
Also we started cleaning the rear end up on the 73, and next step is to delete the lower lights from the bumper, and new taillights will have all functions, new on the right, old on the left.
Now over to some wiring and rust job on the doors.
About 11km clear connection, in prettyhilly terrain.
Also we started cleaning the rear end up on the 73, and next step is to delete the lower lights from the bumper, and new taillights will have all functions, new on the right, old on the left.
Now over to some wiring and rust job on the doors.
TLC Norway
woodwelder
- Thread starter
- #483
Used feeler gauges and did both the 12HT and the 2LT. Tried with the dial with 80kg mag mount but there's just no big enough surface to have the magnet grab enough. :/
Next time I'll clamp a big chunk of steel in somewhere, will be lots easier than feeler gauges. And cooler
the 2L-T really needed an adjustment! Also sledge straightened the rear bumpers who have been mangled for way too long. Gave them and the sliders new paint.
I mixed up my oilpaint (owatrol and arcanol) and did left side frame rail, wheel wells. Have had great results with that mix before, and I like the look. Will do the right side tonight.
TLC Norway
woodwelder
- Thread starter
- #484
Happy constitution day to Norway!! 17th of may is our national day, and this picture shows the red, white and blue from the flag
Awesome thread. Thanks for sharing your adventures. Norway looks like an amazing country. Will add it to my list of places to visit.
Looks like you live in another world up there. That ancient church is incredible. Thanks for the stories and pics
TLC Norway
woodwelder
- Thread starter
- #487
Thanks, @tgadd and @Tasmanic i have a few recommendations if you ever come this way! And stop by, i have room and beer for most people 
I've gotten a few things done, and found more things to do...
A friend had an old Corolla steering wheel from late 80's in his parts pile, so i thought i'd give it a go.
Mine was the stock 61/62 wheel with brown ring and grey horn pad. Not nice. and my horn contact pin is worn down, so something had to be done!
Did some measuring, and it's really a great option! Its almost an inch closer to the driver, 1,5inch smaller and colour does match the seats.
The numbers made me have a go at it!
You can see the size comparing the two. i started by removing the scraper ring from the old wheel.
I centered that ring over the corolla wheel and glued it in. Corolla scraper ring was too big.
While the glue dried, i soldered all the tabs between the two rings, both for horn contact and to make it more rigit.
Then i had to drill out the three holes for the "return collar" for the flasher. You can see the 4 of the small holes in the metal section above. Only three of them are beeing used, so i just drilled a bit at a time to get a tight and centered fit to the collar.
Didnt get a picture of it soldered up, but you get the point. Bonus was the smaller scraper ring from the cruiser wheel works as a spacer, so the scraper pin now has a good connection.
Here it is all done.
And it matches the interior with the black bmw seats.
What didn't match, was the new grey upper column surround plastic. well, at least its whole now, and not rattling. i might take it off and spray to match the wheel.
I've gotten a few things done, and found more things to do...
A friend had an old Corolla steering wheel from late 80's in his parts pile, so i thought i'd give it a go.
Mine was the stock 61/62 wheel with brown ring and grey horn pad. Not nice. and my horn contact pin is worn down, so something had to be done!
Did some measuring, and it's really a great option! Its almost an inch closer to the driver, 1,5inch smaller and colour does match the seats.
The numbers made me have a go at it!
You can see the size comparing the two. i started by removing the scraper ring from the old wheel.
I centered that ring over the corolla wheel and glued it in. Corolla scraper ring was too big.
While the glue dried, i soldered all the tabs between the two rings, both for horn contact and to make it more rigit.
Then i had to drill out the three holes for the "return collar" for the flasher. You can see the 4 of the small holes in the metal section above. Only three of them are beeing used, so i just drilled a bit at a time to get a tight and centered fit to the collar.
Didnt get a picture of it soldered up, but you get the point. Bonus was the smaller scraper ring from the cruiser wheel works as a spacer, so the scraper pin now has a good connection.
Here it is all done.
And it matches the interior with the black bmw seats.
What didn't match, was the new grey upper column surround plastic. well, at least its whole now, and not rattling. i might take it off and spray to match the wheel.
TLC Norway
woodwelder
- Thread starter
- #488
Mounted up the new wiper linkage, and it feels soo smooth now!!
I did find some rust when i took a picture inside the drivers side location... treated it with some oil for now.
I did find some rust when i took a picture inside the drivers side location... treated it with some oil for now.
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2011
- Threads
- 233
- Messages
- 21,813
- Location
- Redding, California
- Website
- trail-tailor.com
I like that steering wheel! Great cross- model -YOTA MOD!
J
J
TLC Norway
woodwelder
- Thread starter
- #490
I've been looking for a better way to light up the trailers i tow, some with led lights, most of them with 12v. I have 24v, so something had to be done. Considered doing a series of relays, but it would be a mess since we have the 7pin standard for trailer wiring here.
Here's the magic box, 9 leads goes in, 7 signals +24v and ground. 7 signals go out, chopped to 12v.
I decided to go with the E805 model from here.
it was a total mess in the rear quarter from some po's attempt to do this, and he used those devils tap connectors so my wires were in pretty bad shape too. I chose to solder into where the clip taps had been, to salvage the oem wires.
Only the right flasher signal had to be taken further up the loom, the rest was at the very end before the plug to left taillight.
I also soldered an extra relay for upcoming 24v extra back up lights when i find some decent ones.
I had my 24v going to the PS quarter cig plug for fridge, extended that to the DS quarter for feeding the converter and an extra dual usb outlet. Added a switch and relay to turn on the converter and usb outlet, cleaned up the wires and had it all heatshinked and taped up.
Switch to the left, usb outlet at floor, converter bolted in and relay for converter on top of converter.
All buttoned up, ready to go.
Here's the magic box, 9 leads goes in, 7 signals +24v and ground. 7 signals go out, chopped to 12v.
I decided to go with the E805 model from here.
it was a total mess in the rear quarter from some po's attempt to do this, and he used those devils tap connectors so my wires were in pretty bad shape too. I chose to solder into where the clip taps had been, to salvage the oem wires.
Only the right flasher signal had to be taken further up the loom, the rest was at the very end before the plug to left taillight.
I also soldered an extra relay for upcoming 24v extra back up lights when i find some decent ones.
I had my 24v going to the PS quarter cig plug for fridge, extended that to the DS quarter for feeding the converter and an extra dual usb outlet. Added a switch and relay to turn on the converter and usb outlet, cleaned up the wires and had it all heatshinked and taped up.
Switch to the left, usb outlet at floor, converter bolted in and relay for converter on top of converter.
All buttoned up, ready to go.
TLC Norway
woodwelder
- Thread starter
- #491
True, i like keeping to yota parts!
Thats why i also installed the brand spanking new tailight assembly, while i was in "wiring mode".
Never had lights on my plates before, on any cruiser. My old assembly was rotted out and dead.
The wiring had disintegrated behind the tank, where it goes into the body. swapped that out and soldered in new ground and dome light wire, mounted the sexy taillight and lit it up!!
The 7pin connector was mounted on the left step in the bumper, out of harms way.
Since im heading for inspection next week, i hammered the bumper back into somewhat the oem shape and painted it.
Will bolt on the right bumper end cap, but i cant find the left one after i mangled the rear bumper last year.
The insides of the upper and lower tailgates are rusted out, missing a piece, they are bent and both the wiper and washer hole is missing.
Need to find myself a new set of tailgates this summer.
My girl has been working hard to get the rear end of her LJ73 cleaned up, and it turned out great!!
Not bad for a rattlecan job! She will later do it black or grey up to the taillight height, and yellow above that, so the rattlecan is fine for now.
Se also got an soldering basics course while i did my wiring, so she could delete the bumper and lights, and installed the newer style taillights with everything integrated. Frame was cleaned, oiled and painted. She did really good!!
Before:
TLC Norway
woodwelder
- Thread starter
- #492
My clutch slave started leaking, so I digged out my spare, new from Terrain Tamer, thinking it would be a quick swap.
Be aware of this part no if you have one as a trail spare, would have been an issue for me.
31470-60101 JB4180
Anyone knows if it's the correct number?
Not so much, it is wider at the bolt section.
It could be remedied with longer bolts, that I didn't have... So out came the new anglegrinder.
Eyeballed and cut the width, approximately 30mm. Kept it cool with a wet towel, and filed it flat. Mounted it, bled and it works fine.
Speaking of anglegrinders, I like this new Bosch 1900 w, comfy, anti kick back and quick release/turn for the shield. The little shiny handle releases the safety shield.
Small for 1900w, feels good.
I keep my 900w Dewalt around for one handed smaller duty, and a Metabo. What do you guys prefer?
Be aware of this part no if you have one as a trail spare, would have been an issue for me.
31470-60101 JB4180
Anyone knows if it's the correct number?
Not so much, it is wider at the bolt section.
It could be remedied with longer bolts, that I didn't have... So out came the new anglegrinder.
Eyeballed and cut the width, approximately 30mm. Kept it cool with a wet towel, and filed it flat. Mounted it, bled and it works fine.
Speaking of anglegrinders, I like this new Bosch 1900 w, comfy, anti kick back and quick release/turn for the shield. The little shiny handle releases the safety shield.
Small for 1900w, feels good.
I keep my 900w Dewalt around for one handed smaller duty, and a Metabo. What do you guys prefer?
TLC Norway
woodwelder
- Thread starter
- #493
For the bigger stuff I prefer the 2600w, with rotating handle.
It goes left, center and right. Smooth!
It goes left, center and right. Smooth!
Considering how much I use angle grinders, I should probably get a good one like that bosch. I have decent milwaukee and wanted a second one, so I didn't have to always swap between 2 wheels. I got a 2 pack of mastercraft grinders for $50 bucks. I beat the heck out of em and they just keep going.
I have finally amassed most of the tools I need, most of them are sub par quality. So as they start to wear and break I will replace them with good quality.
I love the aux cigarette lighter in the trunk. I am going to Copy that
I have finally amassed most of the tools I need, most of them are sub par quality. So as they start to wear and break I will replace them with good quality.
I love the aux cigarette lighter in the trunk. I am going to Copy that
I'm digging my cheap Parkside angle grinder from Lidl. It cost only 25€ or so, one of the best tool investments so far.
Doesn't rattle at all and is quieter than some brand grinders i have used, and i have used them a lot.
Oh almost forgot, it has a five step power controller.
If i have to make something negative out of it, it's bit too long to use with one hand.
PARKSIDE Angle Grinder - Lidl — Great Britain - Specials archive
What kind of welder do you have, @TLC Norway ?
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/O...QB25AlNizjhx9VmgYQvuDp6EKA8RXii=w1598-h897-no
I'm rocking Kemppi MinarcMig 170 with 0.8 wire and carbon dioxide as a shield gas.
Nice work with both Cruisers by the way!
Doesn't rattle at all and is quieter than some brand grinders i have used, and i have used them a lot.
Oh almost forgot, it has a five step power controller.
If i have to make something negative out of it, it's bit too long to use with one hand.
PARKSIDE Angle Grinder - Lidl — Great Britain - Specials archive
What kind of welder do you have, @TLC Norway ?
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/O...QB25AlNizjhx9VmgYQvuDp6EKA8RXii=w1598-h897-no
I'm rocking Kemppi MinarcMig 170 with 0.8 wire and carbon dioxide as a shield gas.
Nice work with both Cruisers by the way!
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
- Threads
- 200
- Messages
- 12,497
- Location
- Boise - Idaho
- Website
- www.snlandcruisers.com
I have got a Metabo grinder I love! Beat the crap out of it and it just keeps on going. Dropped it on the shop floor more times than I can count. Far better than the Makita and Dewalts I have had in the past. I also always removed the guard, just don't work for most the things I do. Love my die grinders and cut off tools too. Use them a lot, got all kinds of attachments and discs for them.
BTW, the Cruisers look great!
Cheers
BTW, the Cruisers look great!
Cheers
TLC Norway
woodwelder
- Thread starter
- #497
Today rear cable locker needs some daylight and inspection, so I'm swapping in a open 3rd that's in good condition. -after installing a Powertrax No-Slip in it. Let's see if I remember this correctly...
TLC Norway
woodwelder
- Thread starter
- #498
Got the powertrax in, checked and ready to swap diffs tomorrow, have to move the flange over to this diff.
I was really pleased with how this powertrax no-slip worked years ago, it's really not much of an hazzle, and little to no noise.
Tranny is getting louder... Looking for a complete swap, as I can't have much downtime. Checked tanny and transfer fluid, all ok.
Also cleaned the engine bay and plumbed in a air hose going to the winch area, got tired of lifting the hood for air. No mount for it yet, just a dust cap and I rest it in the bumper.
Removed light light bar, as there is light 24/7.
I was really pleased with how this powertrax no-slip worked years ago, it's really not much of an hazzle, and little to no noise.
Tranny is getting louder... Looking for a complete swap, as I can't have much downtime. Checked tanny and transfer fluid, all ok.
Also cleaned the engine bay and plumbed in a air hose going to the winch area, got tired of lifting the hood for air. No mount for it yet, just a dust cap and I rest it in the bumper.
Removed light light bar, as there is light 24/7.
I always use my guard, I take it off when I need to get in somewhere and it is in the way. But I always put it down on the floor before it has finished spinning.
The result is it shooting around the garage floor with me jumping out of the way. haha, I'm too absent minded to not use the guard i guess
TLC Norway
woodwelder
- Thread starter
- #500
Cable locker diff came out this evening, and at first glance i can see too much play in the planetary gears. And 5mm of a tooth missing.
It will be serviced and back on duty when i can afford it later on, not sure if i wanna regear if i go to the AA 4:1 with the overdrive, i guess 3.7 will be fine, what i have now. But it sure is tempting to go 4.11 when tampering with it.
I should do the AA gears first, then get a feel for what i want, running both 33s and 35s.
The other diff went in, after i swapped 3 studs to the shorter ones and swapped flange to the later style. Preload by feel, let's see about that. Loctite on the locknut, since i didnt have a new one. Tested it in 2LO, no-slip is working as it should
It will be serviced and back on duty when i can afford it later on, not sure if i wanna regear if i go to the AA 4:1 with the overdrive, i guess 3.7 will be fine, what i have now. But it sure is tempting to go 4.11 when tampering with it.
I should do the AA gears first, then get a feel for what i want, running both 33s and 35s.
The other diff went in, after i swapped 3 studs to the shorter ones and swapped flange to the later style. Preload by feel, let's see about that. Loctite on the locknut, since i didnt have a new one. Tested it in 2LO, no-slip is working as it should
