Yet another jewel sir! too nice to drive but begging to hit the road.
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- #142
She’s on the road every day. And what an amazing drive .. near incredible.
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- #143
The original plan was the 50gal LR tank but I later changed my mind and installed the original again, the rear springs too heavy duty and the rig seems a bit nose heavy.
I will need to remove one of the extra HD leaves at the rear.
I will need to remove one of the extra HD leaves at the rear.
I'd add to the front if that gem was in my driveway.
What is the back-space on those beautiful wheels?
What is the back-space on those beautiful wheels?
I wish you didn't live half way around the world. i have some museum projects that would suit your unique talents perfectly.
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- #146
I'd add to the front if that gem was in my driveway.
What is the back-space on those beautiful wheels?
Wow what a rain of
likes Photo is the original FJ62 body I used. Originally on 4” spring shackles and 35” muddies.
I was into no more than 2” lift on 33” AT.
That’s a good height to get the curbs at the cafe down the road and less bouncy behind the 12HT that makes her very fast at times. So I wouldn’t want to raise her more than that front as is now 2”.
The wheels are mines, split rim centres into 8” tubeless outers, running 285/75R16 BFG AT’s.
The backspace is the standard 3.5” so that’s why I have a nice outer contour of 4.5” adding up to the 8”.
The rims back is like the stock sits and the outer edge is just within the non-flared fender line.
The wheel to the hub is as if I had a 1” spacer on the stock R16 rims but the difference is that it also has an additional 1” towards the inside having 1/2” off dead centre. It feels
glued to the road in curves, maybe the added rear Sahara sway bar that has a say too.
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What is the new tyre size? 285/75/16 or 305/70/16?
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- #148
Splendid. Thanks for the detailed shot. Those wheels ROCK.
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- #150
Most V8 LC scope my tail lights only
You should do the same wheels for the other project you shared with me.
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- #152
The BJ70? These would suit that bad no doubt. Will see..
Exactly. maybe go 3.25 inch to keep the tyres from scrubbing the rear inner wheel wells?
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- #154
Yes, I did all experiments, at 3.25 the outer offset 4.75 given the split cetre is a straight disc woud put too much sheer on the welds outwards. Ideally it should be in the middle of the outer at 4”. With the 7” outers it falls exactly on midline 3.5BS. The 8” outers I kept the same as the added 1/2” inbalance is well within tolerance. Probably it could get away with 3.25 too but I’m a safe player
especially wheels 
Ah, yes and fenders and wells are miles off even with 35 muddies anyway.
The only obstacle going beyont 3.5” would be the tie rod arm knuckles, but with 3.5BS they are about 1/2” away the inner rim edge.
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- #155
The problem with having the wheels too much spaced out is not really an axle or steering issue however all that is in play.
I have a mate running the late model 79 series ute where the rear axle is shorter.
He runs 2.5” spacers to make it look beast, he needs to repack the rear wheel bearings (!!) each and every oil change.
The inner bearing is the larger and so the centre of gravity of the wheel falls between the two bearings somewhat closer to the inner bearing.
Spacing the wheels out changes the weight bearing design of the hub , the bearings and ultimately the spindles .. which we know are welded up to the diff housing. If that weld fails is a hell of a bounce!
I have a mate running the late model 79 series ute where the rear axle is shorter.
He runs 2.5” spacers to make it look beast, he needs to repack the rear wheel bearings (!!) each and every oil change.
The inner bearing is the larger and so the centre of gravity of the wheel falls between the two bearings somewhat closer to the inner bearing.
Spacing the wheels out changes the weight bearing design of the hub , the bearings and ultimately the spindles .. which we know are welded up to the diff housing. If that weld fails is a hell of a bounce!
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- #156
i know this an old thread but im doing up an 2l te and probably will go with teikin pistons or will just reuse my oem ceramic matrix renforced Ringland pistons what kind of ceramic coating did you use on the skirt? and any hcance you know a company that can do an equivalent in new zealand or should i send them to like Line2Line in usa to get it done? is it just hvof but with different specific materials? if so what's the best hvof ceramic composition?
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- #158
HVOF is something else. My pistons and bearings were ceramic coated at CIC high performance ceramics. Their website explains the coating systems they offer for engine parts and their use. Regarding the Teikin pistons so far so good and I am quite happy with them, but there are a few more details into the rebuild apart the pistons 
The skirt coating necessary for long life engine? If going to oversize? Or is it just for extra sealing or making up pistons to wall clearance for std?HVOF is something else. My pistons and bearings were ceramic coated at CIC high performance ceramics. Their website explains the coating systems they offer for engine parts and their use. Regarding the Teikin pistons so far so good and I am quite happy with them, but there are a few more details into the rebuild apart the pistons
This could be the greatest post I’ve ever read on mud….
