HJ45 Towing Capacity?

[45Dougal]

You also have a vacuum actuator I think which controls fuel during high load, which sounds like it could be the problem - check it works by sucking the vacuum hose and watch what happens on the pump.
I can't see it, but the vacuum hose on the back of the throttle housing descends to it I think.
If you have a slack cable then that may mean the throttle isn't fully open. There should be a max throttle position screw which is missing on yours.

I'd check that all of these linkages are free and working correctly.

 

[sogncab]

Yeah.
But my plan is to change the suspension: parabolic rear springs, OME front springs, and BP51 shocks.
Also, add power steering, and upgrade the brakes.
Maybe spring over axles, and adding the Resurrection spring hangers that give better travel and suspension play.

That should make a huge difference.
I know it's a truck, not a sports car, so with those upgrades, it should actually be quite lovely, methinks!

It's not even a truck. It's a tiny SUV before the term SUV was even coined and designed in the 1950's....

Power steering makes the steering feel worse in my opinion. But it will eliminate a few joints in the system. I have power steering. It's better to drive as far as effort goes, but there is no feedback through the wheel.
Flipping the front shackles is supposed to add a bunch of rigidity to the steering, as is right now the front of the springs are moving laterally quite a bit on the shackles.
Flipping the rear springs will add some wheelbase.
Making it taller will hurt more than help too.
You're not shooting for a sports car, you're shooting for towing ability. I just don't see how you can really get there on a 40 series. I would be interested in what sway bars would add to the equation.



I wouldn't put more than a well balanced ton behind it, and I'd consider doing a brake controller and adding brakes if were close to that weight. I'd also take windage into account. Anything tall will blow you around when meeting a semi going the other way, and windy conditions could be less than pleasant.



Moving things around the yard though, sky's the limit. LOL I would never drag this trailer down the highway though. I don't live in a third world country where things go wonky and I kill a bunch of people nobody cares or at worst I can resolve things with a gift of a goat. I'll get sued into oblivion, then probably spend the rest of my days getting raped in prison.

This is the little trailer loosely based off a M416 that I'm planning on dragging behind my 40 that still needs to be finished up. I figure with gear, rooftop tent, and trailer, I should be about 1200#'s. In my opinion, that is about max for a 40 series for road use. Especially with it not having it's own brakes.

 

[Joe45]

So I can see that your setup is different from mine - probably time for a new thread in the diesel section tbf.
You have the over injection magnet - see pic - but it looks like the electrical contact is broken off?
I think this is only used to make starting easier though.

View attachment 3440538

Wow!
Thanks!

Do you know if that's a switch or something that I can reattach? A toggle switch?
From what I saw in another thread here, someone named LostMarbles said: "Note that the overinjection magnet is simply there to give your engine extra fuel while cranking to make it start easier (and puke a nice big puff of carcinogenic black fog into your pristine Irish air)."

 

[Joe45]

It's not even a truck. It's a tiny SUV before the term SUV was even coined and designed in the 1950's....

Power steering makes the steering feel worse in my opinion. But it will eliminate a few joints in the system. I have power steering. It's better to drive as far as effort goes, but there is no feedback through the wheel.
Flipping the front shackles is supposed to add a bunch of rigidity to the steering, as is right now the front of the springs are moving laterally quite a bit on the shackles.
Flipping the rear springs will add some wheelbase.
Making it taller will hurt more than help too.
You're not shooting for a sports car, you're shooting for towing ability. I just don't see how you can really get there on a 40 series. I would be interested in what sway bars would add to the equation.



I wouldn't put more than a well balanced ton behind it, and I'd consider doing a brake controller and adding brakes if were close to that weight. I'd also take windage into account. Anything tall will blow you around when meeting a semi going the other way, and windy conditions could be less than pleasant.



Moving things around the yard though, sky's the limit. LOL I would never drag this trailer down the highway though. I don't live in a third world country where things go wonky and I kill a bunch of people nobody cares or at worst I can resolve things with a gift of a goat. I'll get sued into oblivion, then probably spend the rest of my days getting raped in prison.

View attachment 3440637



This is the little trailer loosely based off a M416 that I'm planning on dragging behind my 40 that still needs to be finished up. I figure with gear, rooftop tent, and trailer, I should be about 1200#'s. In my opinion, that is about max for a 40 series for road use. Especially with it not having it's own brakes.

View attachment 3440648

View attachment 3440649

Any trailer will have breaks for sure.

I like those little military trailers. That's a neat setup.

 

[Joe45]

You also have a vacuum actuator I think which controls fuel during high load, which sounds like it could be the problem - check it works by sucking the vacuum hose and watch what happens on the pump.
I can't see it, but the vacuum hose on the back of the throttle housing descends to it I think.
If you have a slack cable then that may mean the throttle isn't fully open. There should be a max throttle position screw which is missing on yours.

I'd check that all of these linkages are free and working correctly.

View attachment 3440539

I'm gonna have to check that too.
Damn.

My concern is that this may be a daily driver for a bit. Not sure yet. My plan was to strip it down and rebuild it, but that may have to wait. Obviously I can't rebuild it if I am driving it. I'll have to check those things asap and see what I can figure out then.
Thanks!

 

[45Dougal]

Wow!
Thanks!

Do you know if that's a switch or something that I can reattach? A toggle switch?
From what I saw in another thread here, someone named LostMarbles said: "Note that the overinjection magnet is simply there to give your engine extra fuel while cranking to make it start easier (and puke a nice big puff of carcinogenic black fog into your pristine Irish air)."

No it's not a switch, it's an actuator that pushes that arm forwards in order to add more fuel for starting.
How easy is your cold starting?

 

[45Dougal]

Any trailer will have breaks for sure.

I like those little military trailers. That's a neat setup.

Many Sankey trailers here in the UK if you like the landrover look.

 

[45Dougal]

I'm gonna have to check that too.
Damn.

My concern is that this may be a daily driver for a bit. Not sure yet. My plan was to strip it down and rebuild it, but that may have to wait. Obviously I can't rebuild it if I am driving it. I'll have to check those things asap and see what I can figure out then.
Thanks!

Probably easiest to pull your battery out so you can actually see the whole setup and then post a few pics in a new thread in diesel like "Why does my HJ45 max out at 40mph".

I suspect that there is a really easy adjustment that will make a big difference to your top speed.

 

[Joe45]

No it's not a switch, it's an actuator that pushes that arm forwards in order to add more fuel for starting.
How easy is your cold starting?

But it has an electric connector from what I see-or am I looking at the wrong thing? I was just wondering if I could hook up a switch to that connector to activate the actuator on startup.

I hold down the glow plug button for about ten seconds on a normal day. If it's colder, about twenty seconds. If everything is warmed up, the startup is instant-not even a delay. If it's cool, then there's a little effort and the engine runs really rough for a bit.
I am going to have to find some kind of engine warmer device. I like the looks of the one that heats up the water, since that seems to be a good way to warm up the engine in a more complete way.

 

[45Dougal]

But it has an electric connector from what I see-or am I looking at the wrong thing? I was just wondering if I could hook up a switch to that connector to activate the actuator on startup.

I hold down the glow plug button for about ten seconds on a normal day. If it's colder, about twenty seconds. If everything is warmed up, the startup is instant-not even a delay. If it's cool, then there's a little effort and the engine runs really rough for a bit.
I am going to have to find some kind of engine warmer device. I like the looks of the one that heats up the water, since that seems to be a good way to warm up the engine in a more complete way.

You could try applying power to it directly and see if it works.
It should be connected to the starter motor - maybe there's an unused connector hanging there somewhere?

 

[Joe45]

Many Sankey trailers here in the UK if you like the landrover look.

Those are nice. But would probably be a bit to get one here to the states.


My idea has been to make the HJ45 into a camper by making my own "box" to enclose the bed area, and installing an AluCab roof conversion on top of that. With this setup I would likely tow a small military style trailer or something like the size of the current bed for tools, extra supplies, etc.

Thing is, I have also thought of towing something like a Casita and living in it for a time. Not sure. Definitely something under 4,000 lbs.

The plan also involves swapping in something like a 1HZ, a 5 Speed H55, better suspension, power steering, upgraded brakes. Don't want to do 80mph and like to avoid major highways.

Going 80MPH is very doable in my FJ Cruiser, but I don't feel too safe doing that. I think we expect too much from our vehicles sometimes-too much of being everything. 80mph is convenient, but with off road tires, lifted suspension, gear for camping, bullbar, winch, etc. just seems kind of unsafe. I wouldn't want to make a muscle car go off road, yet we seem to expect off road vehicles to run like street cars at speed.

I prefer avoiding highways-even in more modern vehicles like the FJC. It's not just safety, but experience. I like seeing sights. Even in a "desolate" area, I like being able to slow down, pull over to have a snack, lunch, take a picture, just think. I find highways stressful with the trucks and people in cars wanting to do 30 over the limit.
That's why I would be fine with let's say 60-65 MPH sometimes, but be able to cruse at about 55-60. I think that with an improved suspension and brakes, this is possible.

 

[Joe45]

Probably easiest to pull your battery out so you can actually see the whole setup and then post a few pics in a new thread in diesel like "Why does my HJ45 max out at 40mph".

I suspect that there is a really easy adjustment that will make a big difference to your top speed.

I will have to make time to do that. That would be a wonderful discovery! As soon as I can I will posy pics.

 

[Joe45]

You could try applying power to it directly and see if it works.
It should be connected to the starter motor - maybe there's an unused connector hanging there somewhere?

You mean like 12 Volts from the battery?
I'll have to look for a connector. The temperature gauge connector is also missing.

By the way, when it starts I get a good deal of white smoke for a bit. Smae when I accelerate sometimes. Other times no smoke when accelerating. Seems to be the deal until warmed up well.

I really want to take the damn thing apart and rewire it. Just seems like a mess.
The wires to the taillights were patched up with other pieces of wire and wrapped with PAPER tape! When I turn on the headlights, the right turn signals don't work and the right signal indicator on the speedo stays on permanently.


Don't know how worth it it is to also try and work on the H engine. I was told that a 1HZ is more powerful and actually more reliable.
I think its the 1HBT (?) that has a turbo. Turbo is cool, but I want reliability and ease of repair, and a turbo seems to add a good deal more complexity.
I am just delving into diesel though, so know nothing. Maybe those turbos are beter.
The fact that these are Japanese engines that didn't come into the US makes it a little more challenging I guess.

 

[45Dougal]

You mean like 12 Volts from the battery?
I'll have to look for a connector. The temperature gauge connector is also missing.

By the way, when it starts I get a good deal of white smoke for a bit. Smae when I accelerate sometimes. Other times no smoke when accelerating. Seems to be the deal until warmed up well.

I really want to take the damn thing apart and rewire it. Just seems like a mess.
The wires to the taillights were patched up with other pieces of wire and wrapped with PAPER tape! When I turn on the headlights, the right turn signals don't work and the right signal indicator on the speedo stays on permanently.


Don't how worth it it is to also try and work on the H engine. I was told that a 1HZ is more powerful and actually more reliable.
I think its the 1HBT (?) that has a turbo. Turbo is cool, but I want reliability and ease of repair, and a turbo seems to add a good deal more complexity.
I am just delving into diesel though, so know nothing. The fact that these are Japanese engines that didn't come into the US makes it a little more challenging I guess.

Yea or 24V in your case.
I'm a bit surprised to see your engine 0V Ground cable on the intake manifold! It's normally down near the starter motor - maybe you have two??

Sounds like you have a few minor wiring issues to deal with. Print out the diagram and work through them over by one.

I get a bit of smoke when the glow hasn't been on long enough, and the controller normally keeps it on for a while after starting, but mine doesn't.
If you still have white smoke later on then might be a timing issue and could also explain your lack of power/speed.

A newer engine will be better overall, but some simple adjustments to get what you have working properly is probably a lot faster, easier, and cheaper.

 

[Joe45]

Yea or 24V in your case.
I'm a bit surprised to see your engine 0V Ground cable on the intake manifold! It's normally down near the starter motor - maybe you have two??

Sounds like you have a few minor wiring issues to deal with. Print out the diagram and work through them over by one.

I get a bit of smoke when the glow hasn't been on long enough, and the controller normally keeps it on for a while after starting, but mine doesn't.
If you still have white smoke later on then might be a timing issue and could also explain your lack of power/speed.

A newer engine will be better overall, but some simple adjustments to get what you have working properly is probably a lot faster, easier, and cheaper.

My vehicle is a 12 Volt. At least that's how I have it connected with the batteries...
Thanks.
I will have to do some of those adjustments, as it's gonna be a bit before I can get a 1HZ in there.

 

[45Dougal]

Oh really? Two batteries in parallel? That's plenty of capacity, I just have one in the same space.

 

[Joe45]

Oh really? Two batteries in parallel? That's plenty of capacity, I just have one and the same space.

Yes
It was killing batteries in one day when it only had one. Hooked up two in parallel back in and March and no problems since.

The battery tray is long: like for two batteries or one big one.

 

[NZRocky]

Mine seems to handle towing okay, definitely won't win any races but I haven't found it to be unacceptably slow

 

[Joe45]

Mine seems to handle towing okay, definitely won't win any races but I haven't found it to be unacceptably slowView attachment 3443350

What engine/transmission does yours have?

 

[NZRocky]

What engine/transmission does yours have?

H/4 speed