HJ45 Towing Capacity? (2 Viewers)

[Joe45]

I picked up a SA250, I aired up the tires but ran 55/60 mph with no issues on I10. That is a lot wieght that just just strapped down. This particular welder weighs about 2000 pounds. I know it's not the same as pulling 4000 lbs. Anyhow, hauled it home no issues. I have taken concrete to the landfill again with no issues. On that that load I almost felt guilty for loading it down with so much wieght. Truck was squatting pretty good. The truck was following the ruts on the road. I would br interested to know the compression readings on your engine. I agree these engines are slow to pick up speed but once they reach their happy place, they will run and run. Mine seems to be fine around 60-65. It can handle 70 but I don't like run the engine that fast. Don't think Toyota intended them to be run on a freeway....but we do.

What engine does yours have? Mine has an H.
I am thinking maybe it has super low gears, or a governor as mentioned above… I have to check that out. Also the injector oil thing.
No joke: cruising with engine at what seems like a nice rev is 38mph. By 45 mph it’s winding up a lot.
I’ll have to take time and check out the manual mentioned above (found the pdf) and also see if I can determine gear ratio of the diffs.

 

[fjwagon]

I have a 1980 South American h45. I believe this was the last year it came with the H engine. It's gear is really low.

 

[Joe45]

I have a 1980 South American h45. I believe this was the last year it came with the H engine. It's gear is really low.

Mine is from Costa Rica, same year, so it seems to be the same truck.
All being the same-then it may well be a governor issue.
I have to check when I get home.

 

[dirtyham]

Dragged this trailer 2650lbs over 2500 miles behind the turbo 3B and was alright

 

[45Dougal]

Mine is from Costa Rica, same year, so it seems to be the same truck.
All being the same-then it may well be a governor issue.
I have to check when I get home.

If you look at the injector pump (complicated looking box on the intake manifold side), you might find a little dip stick for oil at the front of it - the newer ones normally were plumbed in, but my african one still manual, maybe yours too.
Just take a photo...

 

[Joe45]

If you look at the injector pump (complicated looking box on the intake manifold side), you might find a little dip stick for oil at the front of it - the newer ones normally were plumbed in, but my african one still manual, maybe yours too.
Just take a photo...

OK

I’ll do that once I get home on Sunday/Monday.
Thanks!

 

[Joe45]

I printed out H Engine Manual pages 3-22 and 3-51.
3-22 shows the injection pump and the dipstick.
3-51 shows the governor and location of the Maximum Speed Adjustment Screw.

I read the warnings not to mess with the stopper/breaking the seal...

So how do I check the top speed: if it's set too low?
How do I adjust it to give me the best stop speed without damaging something?
Do I need a tachometer?

I will go take a few pictures in a bit and post them.
Waiting on replies so I can do this properly.

This truck may become my daily driver for now, until I sort some things out. Would have to use it to work (about 40 miles each way daily).
Winter is almost here, and cooler temperatures already arrived. Going to also have to get some kind of engine heater.

Thanks!
And here's the page I'm looking at...

 

[45Dougal]

Tbh I'm still getting started understanding this too so I'm not an expert in diesel pump setup at all!
Maybe first check to see if the seals are intact.
Yes a tacho would be helpful. There are a few apps you can download but i have no idea how well they work (probably ok for a first indication?).

Basically, put it in neutral and floor it, and the engine should reach its max speed.
I wouldn't do it for long, just enough to check what its set at.
If it can't reach a normal speed then firstly check your throttle linkage is opening the butterfly correctly (Fwiw this is what mine looks like). Next stop would be the governor.

Ps. Yes, I know that the kill cable isn't OEM

 

[Joe45]

Tbh I'm still getting started understanding this too so I'm not an expert in diesel pump setup at all!
Maybe first check to see if the seals are intact.
Yes a tacho would be helpful. There are a few apps you can download but i have no idea how well they work (probably ok for a first indication?).

Basically, put it in neutral and floor it, and the engine should reach its max speed.
I wouldn't do it for long, just enough to check what its set at.
If it can't reach a normal speed then firstly check your throttle linkage is opening the butterfly correctly (Fwiw this is what mine looks like). Next stop would be the governor.

Ps. Yes, I know that the kill cable isn't OEM

View attachment 3440020

So you check this by noting the RPM using a tachometer?

 

[45Dougal]

So you check this by noting the RPM using a tachometer?

Exactly

 

[Joe45]

Exactly

OK
Thanks!

 

[Joe45]

Ok
Don’t see the governor.
I think the injection contraption is there meet the manifold, but I do t see the governor setup.
Maybe just missing it?

 

[45Dougal]

Ok
Don’t see the governor.
I think the injection contraption is there meet the manifold, but I do t see the governor setup.
Maybe just missing it?
View attachment 3440128View attachment 3440129View attachment 3440131

Its hidden down below all that stuff, but a few things in your photos draw my eye...
Your "slack" comment points to the accelerator cable?
It looks to me that the cable simply connects to the butterfly valve? Is there no linkage down to the injection pump? (Silvery shaft in my photo).
Its hard to get a photo down there with 2 batteries - maybe remove it and take a good look.

The big loop of pipe over the top of the engine should go to the heater matrix... thanks for the clear view as to where it connects! Where is yours though!? Removed? If they're not used then you should blank them off, otherwise you're bypassing the radiator and it might overheat on a hot day.

 

[45Dougal]

 

[sogncab]

The 40s are snails because of the transmission usually and sometimes the wimpy engines.

I have a H55, and a not so wimpy engine. It's still a snail.

A 45 has more wheelbase, but it's still short, narrow, crappy suspension, worse steering, and terrible brakes. I wouldn't put much behind it on the road.


I've towed some really stupid stuff behind a modern pickup, (usually because of weight), it's fine until it's not though.

 

[Joe45]

Its hidden down below all that stuff, but a few things in your photos draw my eye...
Your "slack" comment points to the accelerator cable?
It looks to me that the cable simply connects to the butterfly valve? Is there no linkage down to the injection pump? (Silvery shaft in my photo).
Its hard to get a photo down there with 2 batteries - maybe remove it and take a good look.

The big loop of pipe over the top of the engine should go to the heater matrix... thanks for the clear view as to where it connects! Where is yours though!? Removed? If they're not used then you should blank them off, otherwise you're bypassing the radiator and it might overheat on a hot day.

I'll try some more pics.

The HJ had a Vintage Air AC unit and the heater core was removed. I took out the AC unit because the pump was too rigged up, I couldn't move it enough for tension, and it was chewing up belts.
When I took off the hose there was gravel and hair (?) inside!
I may reinstall that unit later: either after the restomod if I swap in a 1HZ or something.

Since one end of the hose went from the front to the AC for the heat, and the other exited the AC and into that top part by the manifold, I thought I was completing the loop of water flow. Are you saying that tube is best removed and those ports plugged up? Wouldn't that stop the flow of water?
If I install a heater, I guess those hose would make that loop again-correct?

Here's what was in the hose.

I don't understand how that can happen. Just ridiculous.

 

[Joe45]

I have a H55, and a not so wimpy engine. It's still a snail.

A 45 has more wheelbase, but it's still short, narrow, crappy suspension, worse steering, and terrible brakes. I wouldn't put much behind it on the road.


I've towed some really stupid stuff behind a modern pickup, (usually because of weight), it's fine until it's not though.

Yeah.
But my plan is to change the suspension: parabolic rear springs, OME front springs, and BP51 shocks.
Also, add power steering, and upgrade the brakes.
Maybe spring over axles, and adding the Resurrection spring hangers that give better travel and suspension play.

That should make a huge difference.
I know it's a truck, not a sports car, so with those upgrades, it should actually be quite lovely, methinks!

 

[Joe45]

 

[45Dougal]

Are you saying that tube is best removed and those ports plugged up? Wouldn't that stop the flow of water?

Correct. The water should circulate through the radiator, but also circulates through the heater core when it's switched on.
You've removed the heater matrix and the valve, so water can freely circulate through that pipe, and doesn't have any way to lose heat in the process.
Plug both holes, and all your water will then circulate through the radiator, which is basically the same as having the heater switched off.
You could just cut the pipe and insert the original valve in the closed position. Same same.

 

[45Dougal]

So I can see that your setup is different from mine - probably time for a new thread in the diesel section tbf.
You have the over injection magnet - see pic - but it looks like the electrical contact is broken off?
I think this is only used to make starting easier though.