I know what you meant by tuning and revolving the shocks, I am there with you.
What 12" bolt in shock are you using? I prefer King...
I used to use King to make my custom stuff before changing to Icon afew years ago. I was going to continue to sell them but once we had the Icon experience, its fair to say we never did.
In our set ups we use a 12" bypass shock that bolts into the original mounts all round, with 2-3" lift, and they also have a built in hydro bump zone in the shock. Our CDC [comp only] adjustable 12" bolt ins also have this, as well as a piston and valving adjuster, which halves the line pressures at least you will see with a pintle, or restrictive style adjuster. The hydro lock feeling from restrictive adjusters is what gives the "90 psi in the tyres" feeling on sharp bumps.
My 80.
How many coil over rates? A whole lot more than 9! I can pretty much order whatever I think I may need, then if it isn't right exchange the springs back out for others. I can / will weigh the truck at all 4 corners for the right weights to start with.
If you look at the lengths, and spring weight options, you will need to change the keepers or second rates as well, as the real choices that will actually fit and work arent as many as you think. I have fitted 12" coil overs to 80s, and played with lengths, rates, and valving, including secondary bypasses.
Also remember, I'm not looking to do any goofy 6" lift, it isn't needed, and the total height of the truck still will be a limiting factor because it stays in the garage and I don't want to change that. I can probably switch from the 50mm lift to say a 75mm and still fit, would be good if it fit with sunroof propped up so if I forgot I didn't shatter it.
I haven't dropped coin yet...
Woody runs our 50mm intermediate [no goofy 6"] with my heavy duty rear sway bar [I sent for SNOWY LOL] and our 12" CDC stage 4 kit.
The sway bar is to prevent the roll steer from the rear with some lift, and work with the shocks/coils to keep the rear flat when the front is set right and very pointy.
So like I have already said, Im not trying to sell you anything here, I am just trying to explain what I have found by doing pretty much what your thinking you want, and what you think should do the job for your intended budget. I am just offering up what I have found when having shocks custom made over the years by FOX, King, and Icon, having custom coils made, having coil overs and using coil over springs, etc etc.
So if your suspension works well enough for what you require, within 2 hours your front diff housing will be leaking from the carrier if you havent upgraded to 10mm diff studs [and RTV it to housing no gasket] and laminated the axle tubes, by the end of the week the panhard rod mount will be cracked at the chassis, if you havent welded it, and you may have a bent rear housing, without built in bump stops, and if you dont have a 06 on 105 sector shaft steering box, expect to be upgrading to one afterward. I may have already documented some of that earlier in this thread.
All without realizing its going on, if your suspension is not passing on whats happening under the car, because we see that alot.
No good upping the budget to be dissapointed as the fusable link moves down the line, when that wasnt the expectation.
Hope all that helps.
