John McVicker
SILVER Star
Here’s the battery disconnect that I use, the on/off switch has a heavy duty padlock. As with most anything it certainly can be defeated. But I do sleep better. Have one on my 40 & my 60.
Hidden kill switch ideas (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Zack1978
- Start date
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So here is my kill switch idea. After our truck was stolen I figured I should do something to slow these low lives down just enough to have them move on. Nothing is completely secure, if they want it bad enough they will take it.
The problem I saw with a standard kill switch is overtime I would get lazy and not turn it off or just forget. This circuit goes off when you turn the truck off and needs to be reset every time you start it. I don't want to go into too much detail on how the circuit works as some unwanted might be looking at this thread as I write this, not that it would matter. This can be used to interrupt an ignition circuit or possibly a fuel shut off. I personally have two circuits doing two different things.
On a different note, posted earlier on this thread was a comment and video on cat shields. These thieves are getting dang brazen. My wife's coworker had his cat stolen in their parking lot in the middle of the day.
The problem I saw with a standard kill switch is overtime I would get lazy and not turn it off or just forget. This circuit goes off when you turn the truck off and needs to be reset every time you start it. I don't want to go into too much detail on how the circuit works as some unwanted might be looking at this thread as I write this, not that it would matter. This can be used to interrupt an ignition circuit or possibly a fuel shut off. I personally have two circuits doing two different things.
On a different note, posted earlier on this thread was a comment and video on cat shields. These thieves are getting dang brazen. My wife's coworker had his cat stolen in their parking lot in the middle of the day.
This^^^^.
Having to set it each time is what I need.
do you know how to install a kill switch? I need to put one in and I'm not sure if it works the same for gas as to diesel, an do you recommend any switches in particular
I think the neutral safety switch lends itself well to being the kill switch circuit, with the run/kill switch being installed under the console or seat, reachable by the driver, but not obvious. This only works for FJ62s, of course.
do you know if it would work for a bj 60? an thank you for the info I really apricate it!
Any switch placed in a critical circuit can act as a kill switch. BJ60s are pretty simple, so you'd have to find a way to electrically disable that truck. I'd post your question in the diesel forum, where people more familiar with that engine can speculate.
If you had a BJ60 with an automatic transmission, no one would steal it because you could walk faster than the truck would move...
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If you had a BJ60 with an automatic transmission, no one would steal it because you could walk faster than the truck would move...
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I'll be putting something in the glow circuit as every other piece of electrical stuff except for the lights, windshield wipers, HVAC fan, and starter will be removed...
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
Great idea.
Wired to a second rear heater rocker switch in the center console.
Hidden in plain signt.
Sweet! I like it.
Hi Guys, looking at wiring an EDIC switch on a diesel, Do you think it should be switched before or after the fuse?
I was thinking before the fuse so that if the switch has issues then the EDIC will be protected
Thanks
I was thinking before the fuse so that if the switch has issues then the EDIC will be protected
Thanks
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EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
Here is a question for anyone that has done a neutral safety switch based kill switch on an H55 swapped FJ62.
I installed my /kill switch today utilizing an extra rear heat rocker switch and it works great.
Question I have is why the engine idles up when I move the switch to the non-starting position if the engine is running.
There is no actual need to move the switch after it starts...more of a curiosity.
My assumption is that the ECU sees the vehicle moving out of neutral on the no longer installed automatic transmission and idles up to compensate for the drag of the no longer existent torque converter.
Anyone know if this is correct?
I installed my /kill switch today utilizing an extra rear heat rocker switch and it works great.
Question I have is why the engine idles up when I move the switch to the non-starting position if the engine is running.
There is no actual need to move the switch after it starts...more of a curiosity.
My assumption is that the ECU sees the vehicle moving out of neutral on the no longer installed automatic transmission and idles up to compensate for the drag of the no longer existent torque converter.
Anyone know if this is correct?
CaptHamster
TLCA #19645
Hey @EscapeWagon62 would love to see how you wired that up, just had my FJ62 swapped to an H55F and want to do the exact same thing you did!
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
Very easy.
When you did the H55 you had to connect two wires to fake the vehicle into thinking it was in neutral so the starter would work (NSS bypass)
Mine was a blue connector with one thick black, one thick white and one thin black wire coming out. The thin black wire isn’t in play for this job.
For this procedure disconnect the white and black wires.
On the back side of the extra rear seat heater rocker switch there are four wires. One black, one white and two blue with stripes.
I connected white to white (using some extra wire bought at Ace Hardware) and black to black.
For routing, I removed the passenger seat, pulled up the carpet a bit, drilled a small hole in the transfer case floor cover plate, put rust reformer paint on the exposed metal, and ran the wires down under the truck to connect. There were a number of ways I could have routed the wires without drilling a hole but I was a bit rushed so took the easy way out.
This wiring setup will not allow the truck to start when the rocker switch is in the middle position (the natural position of the actual rear seat heater rocker switch) but will start when you push down the the rocker switch toward the dashboard.
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I love this thread. I wanted to put one in on a dash switch. Can I just cut and reroute one of these wires to run through a switch? If so, which wire is best?
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tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
The club.
My Fj60 is one of about 8 that live in my county, it’s F-250 territory mostly. My kill switch is about 25 years old and it’s always trying to kill the engine! I’m trying to figure out how to dismantle it, or install a new momentary switch that’s kind of wearing out. I have to push the switch to get the starter engaged while I turn the key. Original owner lived in the big city, but I live on a ranch so I don’t need any anti theft stuff here. The only danger is wandering cows or horses.
it’s F-250 territory mostly
Fortunately for you, those are more frequently stolen
Fortunately for you, those are more frequently stolen
Can you remove the momentary switch from the dashboard and see how it is wired. It is possibly just creating a open circuit in the wire that runs from the ignition switch to the starter. The ignition switch would still control the power on and off. Remove the switch and connect the two wires from the kill switch together.
But I don't know if I understand how the switch is "always trying to kill the engine". Does it make it hard to get your truck started? Or does it kill the engine while you are driving? If the latter, then my explanation how your kill switch works is not correct.
