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hi lift jack questions

Joined
Apr 23, 2009
Messages
319
Location
New Mexico
A hi lift is on the short list of things to buy. I am torn between the 48" and the 60". I was leaning towards the 60" any reason why I should do otherwise? I was also wondering what the difference between the all cast and the cast and stamped was?

Thanks

Pat
 
Joined
Apr 18, 2005
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New York, NY
If your rig is SUA and you're just using it for tire changes, as I do, the 48" should be fine. You'll want to makes sure you have sturdy lift points around the bumper area on each corner. The 48" is also easier to store.

If you're doing serious rock crawling maneuvers and/or have huge tires and SOA, you'll probably run out of holes when you need them most.

As far as the castings...If the price is close just buy the fancier one--not that either is going to break.
 
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North Vancouver
If you get stuck and need to lift the truck by the bumper, the 48" is useless on even a stock truck. For lifting tires, it'll do. Wish I had the 60", even for my 4Runner.
 
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So for really lifting the truck more than to just swap tires(I like to be prepared:D) the 60 is the way to go.

No thoughts on the cast vs stamped? Anyone have a cast or stamped and have a problem?
 

Mace

rock scientist..
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Because you have to lift the truck significantly higher than a floor or bottle jack will and is incredibly unstable.

I have seen more people drop trucks off High-lifts than I care to admit to.
 

Spook50

My daughter likes Stitch
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Because you have to lift the truck significantly higher than a floor or bottle jack will and is incredibly unstable.

I have seen more people drop trucks off High-lifts than I care to admit to.

I second that. ALWAYS, unless you're in an emergency situation and simply can't, use a floor jack on a concrete or paved surface and throw a jackstand under there. Whenever I'm working under my truck or have the wheels off, it's held up by jackstands with the jack still in place as a safety measure.
 

GLTHFJ60

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Because you have to lift the truck significantly higher than a floor or bottle jack will and is incredibly unstable.

I have seen more people drop trucks off High-lifts than I care to admit to.

I second that. ALWAYS, unless you're in an emergency situation and simply can't, use a floor jack on a concrete or paved surface and throw a jackstand under there. Whenever I'm working under my truck or have the wheels off, it's held up by jackstands with the jack still in place as a safety measure.

I definitely understand what you mean. When I'm in a shop I always use a hydraulic floor jack and jackstands, however if I have to wrench in my college's parking lot, I don't always have a floor jack available:lol:
 
Joined
Apr 23, 2009
Messages
319
Location
New Mexico
I agree that a floor jack and jack stands are the prefered method. But the hi-lift is a good option for an emergency situation. Does anybody carry a jack stand or something similar to back up the hi-lift? Is there a strength difference between the cast and stamped parts? I am curious because when the cruiser is loaded with a weeks worth of stuff for 2 people and a dog I don't want the jack to be the weak point.

Thanks for all the info
 

Mace

rock scientist..
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BTW, if you are gonna use the highlift to change a tire. Strap the axle to the frame with the suspension compressed. It'll make it a lot safer.


And, my cruiser on 35's still can use the stock bottle jack without headache. What OEM jack can't clear a 30" tire?
 

ntsqd

technerd
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Apr 26, 2007
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Upper So. CA
One of these, or something like it, always goes with me on trips.
00950523000-1


My first one is a HF unit and has a full length 10ga. Core-10 skid plate under it that replaces the wheels entirely. Haven't done this for the Craftsman jack yet, but it's on the List.
I've read of guys complaining that they don't lift high enough. I guess they've never thought of cribbing the jack so that it's starting point is at or nearly in contact.
 

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