hi lift jack questions (1 Viewer)

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New Mexico
A hi lift is on the short list of things to buy. I am torn between the 48" and the 60". I was leaning towards the 60" any reason why I should do otherwise? I was also wondering what the difference between the all cast and the cast and stamped was?

Thanks

Pat
 
If your rig is SUA and you're just using it for tire changes, as I do, the 48" should be fine. You'll want to makes sure you have sturdy lift points around the bumper area on each corner. The 48" is also easier to store.

If you're doing serious rock crawling maneuvers and/or have huge tires and SOA, you'll probably run out of holes when you need them most.

As far as the castings...If the price is close just buy the fancier one--not that either is going to break.
 
If you're going to buy one I don't see any reason not to buy the 60"
 
If you get stuck and need to lift the truck by the bumper, the 48" is useless on even a stock truck. For lifting tires, it'll do. Wish I had the 60", even for my 4Runner.
 
I went through the same thing, I just went big. I went SOA and the 48" just would have been a waste of money. Go big or go home
 
So for really lifting the truck more than to just swap tires(I like to be prepared:D) the 60 is the way to go.

No thoughts on the cast vs stamped? Anyone have a cast or stamped and have a problem?
 
I ended up buying the Cast/stamped but have never used it for actually lifting or anything (only for spreading/clamping bumper brackets :D)
 
If your rig is SUA and you're just using it for tire changes, as I do, the 48" should be fine.

a high lift is not for changing tires..
 
a high lift is not for changing tires..

How is it not? I've used it more than once for rotating my tires, why not for swapping out a blown tire for a spare?
 
How is it not? I've used it more than once for rotating my tires, why not for swapping out a blown tire for a spare?

x2: bought mine cuz the damned OEM jack didn't go high enuf the first time I tried to use it to change out a stobbed 30" tire.
 
Because you have to lift the truck significantly higher than a floor or bottle jack will and is incredibly unstable.

I have seen more people drop trucks off High-lifts than I care to admit to.
 
Because you have to lift the truck significantly higher than a floor or bottle jack will and is incredibly unstable.

I have seen more people drop trucks off High-lifts than I care to admit to.

I second that. ALWAYS, unless you're in an emergency situation and simply can't, use a floor jack on a concrete or paved surface and throw a jackstand under there. Whenever I'm working under my truck or have the wheels off, it's held up by jackstands with the jack still in place as a safety measure.
 
Because you have to lift the truck significantly higher than a floor or bottle jack will and is incredibly unstable.

I have seen more people drop trucks off High-lifts than I care to admit to.

I second that. ALWAYS, unless you're in an emergency situation and simply can't, use a floor jack on a concrete or paved surface and throw a jackstand under there. Whenever I'm working under my truck or have the wheels off, it's held up by jackstands with the jack still in place as a safety measure.

I definitely understand what you mean. When I'm in a shop I always use a hydraulic floor jack and jackstands, however if I have to wrench in my college's parking lot, I don't always have a floor jack available:lol:
 
I agree that a floor jack and jack stands are the prefered method. But the hi-lift is a good option for an emergency situation. Does anybody carry a jack stand or something similar to back up the hi-lift? Is there a strength difference between the cast and stamped parts? I am curious because when the cruiser is loaded with a weeks worth of stuff for 2 people and a dog I don't want the jack to be the weak point.

Thanks for all the info
 
BTW, if you are gonna use the highlift to change a tire. Strap the axle to the frame with the suspension compressed. It'll make it a lot safer.


And, my cruiser on 35's still can use the stock bottle jack without headache. What OEM jack can't clear a 30" tire?
 
One of these, or something like it, always goes with me on trips.
00950523000-1


My first one is a HF unit and has a full length 10ga. Core-10 skid plate under it that replaces the wheels entirely. Haven't done this for the Craftsman jack yet, but it's on the List.
I've read of guys complaining that they don't lift high enough. I guess they've never thought of cribbing the jack so that it's starting point is at or nearly in contact.
 

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