- Thread starter
- #61
Ease of touch up is the reason I shoot them with Rustoleum paint. You can find matching paint about anywhere. 
HFS-UZJ100 Upper & Lower Links
- Thread starter NCFJ
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
At 150K miles, my OEM lower link bushings were developing cracks.
Now for some constructive critisism;
You should look at the following, either supply 9/16" hardware with the links (good), or use johnny joints/bushings with slightly smaller hole to fit oem hardware (best).
I've got a slight "clunk" from the arms (not my flesh and bone arms, although they are also prone to making noises, but the rear control arms on the vehicle) while dooing "eager manouvering"at slow speeds, and will need to get some 9/16 bolts in time.
But other than that this was top notch merchandise
Well, I've had mine (uppers and lowers) installed for a couple of months now and have done a lot of wheeling. The lowers are scratched all to hell but still straight as can be, the build and performance of the product is excellent.
Now for the negative. I too feel that these should be supplied with either 9/16 hardware (I'm not particularly happy that I'm drilling out my mounting holes) or stock sized bushings (these have to be available somewhere is some type of configuration, maybe not a johnny joint but something. Could a bushing adapter be used?). they clunk and thud a lot in flexy situations, enough that it is annoying. I'm about to head out to try to find some 9/16 hardware in a town that doesn't have a good selection. People who are not hearing clunks/thuds are probably not wheeling in a way that would require different hardware in the first place. Off to the hardware store.
I have the clunk...and I have heard your clunk. The appropriate hardware will run about $60, at least when I checked last. They are really tough though.
bluecruiser said:
$38 at the hardware store. Installing tomorrow.
jonharis said:
Must be cheaper there...grade 8?
I wanted grade 8 but they only had grade 8 stuff up to 1/2". Since you brought it up, would grade 5 be acceptable? What came off the truck? I didn't look at the bolt head for markings. According to this fancy chart I'm looking at a 9/16 grade 5 bolt has a 18,640lb shear capacity while a grade 8 has a 22,610 (~18% more) shear capacity.
I think the Toyota bolts have their own grading system, I actually had a grade 5 bolt in my lower rear control arm bolt for a few years (factory one fell out) and never had a problem. I will just go with grade 8 to be safe....not that I know I really need it...I would not want to come down on a rock with 18,650 lbs of shear capacity on a grade 5 bolt... (whatever that is)......
I don't have these and I have developed a light pop in the rear end, I plan on checking my springs and shocks but Jon, I may ask you to give it a listen in Ouray!
Ok...I'll be the dick to go out on the limb here: It seems this is an issue the fabricator should be solving for you...
He did let us know that 9/16 would be the appropriate bolt size to avoid the noises......at least I knew about it....
Mine pop a little bit as well. I will be switching to grade 8- 9/16" bolts as well.
Stan also informed me of this as well. I am sure he doesn't include the hardware to keep the costs down. I am sure that if you wanted him to include the hardware he would supply it for whatever it costs him to buy.
Has anyone taken measurements to see how long the smooth part of the bolt should be on the new bolts? Or if anyone is installing soon could take a measurement off the OEM bolt?
Stan also informed me of this as well. I am sure he doesn't include the hardware to keep the costs down. I am sure that if you wanted him to include the hardware he would supply it for whatever it costs him to buy.
Has anyone taken measurements to see how long the smooth part of the bolt should be on the new bolts? Or if anyone is installing soon could take a measurement off the OEM bolt?
I knew about it as well. It was mentioned during the development, however I think most of us tried it with the OEM bolts hoping that the clunk would not be that bad. IMO it should have never have been viewed as an option to mount them using the OEM hardware.
How does it keep the cost down? The weight is pretty minimal and might add a couple $s to shipping. The time/fuel I spent going to the hardware store to buy hardware that I don't know if I want to use now and the second trip to a different hardware store to find grade 8 stuff and the 3rd trip to the original store to return the other bolts. (still not sure I'll do this or that it's necessary). At this point I think it's been established that hardware should be included at an increased unit price.
I have one bolt out of my truck that I took to the hardware store to match up to what they had. I'll measure the bolt and the smooth part of it tonight.
Toyota does not give out the specs on the bolts so it is very difficult to compare with standard bolts. The bolt are marked with a 11T which refers you to the torque specs to use. They are also fine thread and the washers are specially made to lock and not come loose. I would try to use factory Toyota hardware as far as I can.
However all the control arms bolts are special hardened bolts. If you try to but them you will soon realize that. You can only cut them with a cut-off wheel. If you try a bandsaw you just dull the blade. I know you can easily cut a grade 8 bolt with a bandsaw.
However all the control arms bolts are special hardened bolts. If you try to but them you will soon realize that. You can only cut them with a cut-off wheel. If you try a bandsaw you just dull the blade. I know you can easily cut a grade 8 bolt with a bandsaw.
Wonder if the 80 series hardware would fit the 9/16 hole? I believe it's bigger than the 100 series hardware.
I think the 80 bolts are 18mm, which would be too big for the 9/16 hole
^ Correct: 80-Series = 18mm diameter bolts / 100-Series = 14mm bolts
Gottagetone said:
Will do! See you in a week!
Because grade 8 hardware isn't cheap, that is how it keeps the cost down. Nothing to do with shipping weight when the arms them selves are already 20+ lbs each.
I did say that maybe he could offer an option of buying the hardware with the arms.