Builds Here we go again! 64 FJ40 Frame off Restomod

[thecrazygreek]

Got the starter, radiator, alternator, VR, motor and tranny mounts ordered.
Went with a 3 core all tig welded aluminum radiator. Used one before and it worked well.
Also ordered the willwood dual brake master kit from manefre. Looks like the ticket for my 4 wheel disc brake non powered upgrade.

 

[Old Red]

Had the original big green Denso starter and generator already been replaced when you got it?

How will you deal with the different angle of the replacement water pump inlet vis a vis the original hard pipe?

I see that you are ditching the brake master. Will you keep and rebuild the clutch master?

Did you pressure test the radiator?

 

[thecrazygreek]

Had the original big green Denso starter and generator already been replaced when you got it?

How will you deal with the different angle of the replacement water pump inlet vis a vis the original hard pipe?

I see that you are ditching the brake master. Will you keep and rebuild the clutch master?

Did you pressure test the radiator?

I am considering rebuilding the clutch master, but may upgrade that as well. Both the Brake & Clutch Master cylinders are rebuildable and in decent shape. I may actually end up cleaning them up and selling them as I'm sure somebody could use them on their restoration.
I did not pressure test the radiator. I decided to go with the aluminum based on it's cooling ability and doing some slight upgrades in safety and reliability such as the brakes.
As far as the water pump goes I went with the sor water pump kit which was a bolt-on affair utilizing the newer shorter pipe for the heater. I'm still debating as to whether or not I'm going to go with the old longer pipe or the new or short pipe. As the older longer pipe is original and is in decent shape and restorable.
And yes the original generator and starter were both replaced when I bought the vehicle. So I'm going to go with a later model version of those two items.

 

[Old Red]

I agree, someone could use one or both of those masters, as well perhaps as the radiator.

I guess all of us face similar decisions---the balance between drivability upgrades on the one hand and maintaining originality on the other.

Thank you for the reply. I will follow your progress.

 

[thecrazygreek]

Picked up a bunch of smaller parts from the blasters today. Got them into some epoxy. Going to get some sandable primer on them, go over them with some 400, then get them into paint. Going gloss black on most, satin on a couple items. The pic shows about half of what was primered.

Love me some white metal.

 

[thecrazygreek]

After doing a bunch of research, I finally discovered the true color of this rig. For 1964, the color was called Yosemite Yellow. K-529 is the code. The name changed in 67 to Sunny Yellow. Same code, different name. Not sure why they changed the name, maybe a trademark deal?

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Yosemite isn't yellow in the spring?

 

[thecrazygreek]

Just for s***s n giggles... Here is a list of things I have ordered in the last 4 days.

PLATE, RADIATOR GRILL (toyota emblem on front grill)
ORNAMENT SUB-ASSY, H (apron emblems)
SHIMS for Radiator mount
PLUG, HOLE (firewall)
ELEMENT KIT
BLOCK ASSY, JUNCTION x 2 (goes on each fender. where all the wires meet up.)
STOPPER, WHEEL (cool accesory thats still available. Goes your your under seat tool box)
LAMP ASSY, FR TURN Signal x2
CABLE ASSY, PARKING
SHOE ASSY, PARKING B
Dual Master Brake Cyl Kit (Manafre)
Brake Rotor x2
Caliper Repair Kit
Brake Pad set
Starter Motor
Voltage Regulator
Transmission Mounts
Spark Plug Wires
Body Mount Kit
Spark Plugs
Alternator / Generator
Hydraulic Hoses (brake lines)
Motor Mounts
FRONT GREASABLE SPRING HANGER PIN SET
BRAIDED STAINLESS STEEL OIL LINE TO REGULATOR-
BRAIDED STAINLESS STEEL OIL LINE TO BLOCK-
REAR GREASABLE SPRING HANGER PIN SET
CORAL DELUX SOR REAR SEAT COVER & FOAM SET (SOR)
REAR JUMP SEAT METAL PANEL HARDWARE KIT-
CORAL DELUXE SOR FRONT SEAT COVER & FOAM SET - (SOR)
FRONT BENCH SEAT METAL PANEL HARDWARE KIT -
FRONT BENCH SEAT BOTTOM CUSHION HARDWARE KIT -
A*FLAP W/STRIP- (weatherstrip for windshield vent)
FUEL FILTER -
GAS CAP -
CLUTCH SLAVE ROD-
Bumper - Front - Bumper - Pewter - FJ40/45 - TOYOTA
Battery Tray, FJ40/45 (10.75" x 7") 58 to 1/'79 - TOYOTA
Door, Front ~ 2-Door Seal Kit ~ FJ40/45 ~ 63 - 74
Hood Pad Kit - Rubber Cushion - 4ea front & 2ea side
Hood Hooks - Stainless Side Hook Kit w/SST Hrdwr.
Mirror Hinge Mt Combo- 1ea- Head & Arm- FJ40/45- TOYOTA
Gear Shift Knob - 3-Speed - FJ40 - 9/71 to 1/75 - TOYOTA
Spring Leaf - Bump Stop Kit, Set of 4
Clutch Slave Cyl
3 Core Aluminum Radiator
Drain Plug (hex wrench style)

About half of this stuff is OEM. Some unobtainium and aftermarket.

 

[onemanarmy]

Building this to keep?

Those wheels and tires are going to look phenomenal when mounted on the truck.

 

[thecrazygreek]

I wish....

I love the 33x10.50s with the ome 2.5 lift combo. Best looking set up there is. IMO...

 

[thecrazygreek]

Putting a little detail on the tranny.
Also getting engine components into paint today.

 

[thecrazygreek]

Mounted the remote oil canister with a new set of stainless braided lines from SOR and a new OEM filter.
Notice the fj25 stamped into the manifold... old school cool...

 

[thecrazygreek]

Test fit the freshly painted fan... I think I got the color pretty close... ?

Also installed the oil filler neck.

Finally got around to welding in the largest patch panel I had. Rear corner from CCOT. Lots of trimming and test fitting. Got it about as good as I could. Still need to finish weld etc. Put some zinc primer to keep it clean.

Using my Hobart handler 140. Love the welder. Trying out Flux core and I actually like it. Not near the splatter I thought I was going to get with good penetration.

 

[Racer65]

Jeezus h cristo....

Spent 90 minutes just getting the transfer case drain plug removed. It was tighter than an SOB.

Used vise grips, pipe wrench, torch, breaker bars, then decided to just cut it off and try to drill it out.
Well... I guess the cutting did something, or maybe the 30 minutes of drilling into hardened steel and going only an eighth of an inch did something. Because I decided to give the vise grips and breaker bar one more try, and BOOM!

Victoty!!!!! Wine time for me.....

For some reason, this is very common. I spent more than 90 mins, and took it to the dealer in defeat. They had a tough time too. It finally came loose after applying a lot heat.

 

[White Stripe]

For some reason, this is very common. I spent more than 90 mins, and took it to the dealer in defeat. They had a tough time too. It finally came loose after applying a lot heat.

a impact gun works well on removing stubborn drain plugs

 

[thecrazygreek]

Just picked up the sandblasted and painted chassis. The paint is from SEM. It's called rust shield. With hardener it gets very hard, and very tuff. Love this stuff!

 

[Old Red]

Okay, educate me please. Some people sand blast the chassis, some people bead blast the chassis. Some people paint the chassis and some people powder coat the chassis.

Having done neither myself but anticipating the process in my future, what advice might you offer to inform the decision?

 

[thecrazygreek]

Okay, educate me please. Some people sand blast the chassis, some people bead blast the chassis. Some people paint the chassis and some people powder coat the chassis.

Having done neither myself but anticipating the process in my future, what advice might you offer to inform the decision?

I think both have merits.
First I would sandblast the chassis. Nothing fragile, and no issues with warpage etc.
I chose the SEM after doing some research in the industrial field. Probably the most widely used paint in the trucking industry on trailers. And those things take a beating. I also chose it because my blaster also offers it as a service. So super convenient for me. And with the hardener it's every bit as good as POR15 but it is UV stable. I literally can hit it with a hammer after 7 days of curing and it barely makes a mark. No chipping and no cracking.

Powder is also great if done right. More expensive but looks better and hides imperfections like minor pitting.
Can chip and flake if not done correctly. I would go that route if I had a local trust worthy company near me that was affordable.

Also you couldnt powder coat what I did. As in the whole rolling chassis at once. You would have to do each piece individually.

Another benefit of SEM paint is I can get a can of it and do touch ups myself.

 

[Old Red]

Excellent information. Thank you for the reply.

 

[thecrazygreek]

Got some goodies in the mail.

This thing is cool. A wheel stop. I think I'll throw it in the toolroll.