Help with rear heater hoses

[krudo]

Hey guys. Finally getting started on my first project.

The rear heater hoses get really hot and are wild (see pictures) and not wranglable. Going to plug them off since I have no use for the heater anyway.

I can't seem to find the shut off valve I've been reading about. I included a picture of the hoses in the engine bay.

Also, now looking at it would it be better to just route the hoses coming out of the firewall into the front heater rather than plug and leave the T joint?

Any help much appreciated!

 

[bikersmurf]

I'd keep the heater and insulate the lines.

That said, ditch the Ts and plum directly into heater.

 

[krudo]

Likely going to keep the heater but remove the lines for now until I figure out a better position for them. Agreed sounds cleaner to remove the Ts

Any idea on the valve?

 

[krudo]

That wasn't it

 

[krudo]

What would happen if I just go ahead and unhook the hoses without the valve? Besides the hoses leaking on the floor

 

[ginmtb]

You can setup something like this:

Won a '74 40 on a coin toss... (post #716)

That shuts off circulation to the inner hoses.

This has the parts I ordered:

Won a '74 40 on a coin toss... (post #862)

I ordered new insulation from McMaster-Carr:

Won a '74 40 on a coin toss... (post #704). Product link: McMaster-Carr

Hope this helps. All stolen from other MUDders.

 

[krudo]

Thanks for that. Confused why I can't find the valve.. is it different for these early ones?

Also looking at yours I don't think my hoses have anything hard inside of them like yours. Mine are very flexible...

 

[JohnnyC]

You can't find yours because you don't have the original engine ... When somebody did the conversion they never put one in... It is hard lined in with no shut off

I ran it this way for several years living in VT

 

[krudo]

It is hard lined in with no shut off

I ran it this way for several years living in VT

Ah that makes sense. How do I go about doing this then without getting radiator fluid everywhere?

 

[honk]

Ah that makes sense. How do I go about doing this then without getting radiator fluid everywhere?

How about draining the radiator? You could service your cooling system while doing whatever you decide with the heater hoses without loss of coolant into the cab.

 

[B y r o n]

What you need is one of these:

I used the existing choke cable and it positioned right of the carb perfectly.

If you don't want the lines running to the rear heater simply remove the "T's" you have in the lines and only plumb for the front heater box.


If you want to know why I went with a plastic valve, this is what it replaced:

Now it worked fine for many, many years but I figured since plastic doesn't rust it would be one less thing to worry about.

 

[krudo]

Hey @B y r o n that looks like a good solution. Have any more pictures of the install?

 

[tlc762]

I used a brass quarter turn ball valve from the plumbing section in Lowes in my '69. I put the valve right next to the heater core so it is in reach to turn on or off/ adjust the flow rate.
HTH,
Will

 

[B y r o n]

Hey @B y r o n that looks like a good solution. Have any more pictures of the install?

Here's one showing the routing of the choke cable and where the heater hose attaches to the old intake.

I slipped a piece of plastic over the choke cable so it wouldn't wear into the coil cap on the distributor. It just sort of floated under the air cleaner bottom and above the valve cover. The other heater hose went from the heater box to the water pump.

If there is something more specific, just let me know and I'll see what I can do for you.

 

[B y r o n]

For those that are interested, the valve I believe I used was a Four Seasons 74631 which is 5/8" in and out. Although a lot of the pictures on the internet show the valve without the metal bracket that secures the pull cable, there is one in the package the simply screws to one of the sides.

 

[Weber Sarge]

How well do these seal ? I've seen a lot of the plastic ones that deform enough under heat and pressure to leak past , very much like the original metal units - does the return hose/heater stay cool when running for awhile ?
Sarge

 

[bikersmurf]

Both my lines get hot, hot, hot!

I'm running a similar, but metal one, I bought through EBay. Mine is an F150 valve... Or it comes up as one when you search. I've had no issues with rust so far... For $15, I can replace it every 10-15 years.

 

[B y r o n]

If you look at this generic drawing you may see why both lines are hot.

The line from the heater core feeds back to the water pump. The water simply picks up heat which is radiated back toward the core.

The valve I installed simply replaces Toyota's manual valve. These are non-bypass valves. You can purchase bypass valves such as this one:

Here is how it works:

The drawing was for a vacuum operated valve so ignore power and think cable pull instead for open and cable pushed for closed. Here is a link to a site that sells the cable operated valve.

Figuring out where to place this larger valve it then a cable and hose routing issue.


P.S. - I forgot to mention the other reason for both being hot is simply absorbing all the heat that is under the hood. A little slower than direct contact with hot coolant but just the way things are.