Builds Won a '74 40 on a coin toss... (2 Viewers)

[ginmtb]

Even though the aluminum valve cover isn't period correct, I decided to put on the blue decal - really pops on the silver!

 

[ginmtb]

So I guess my radiator flush didn't work too well...

Good thing I'm tearing it all apart and starting fresh.

 

[Racer65]

So I guess my radiator flush didn't work too well...
Good thing I'm tearing it all apart and starting fresh.

Actually it looks like it worked extremely well!

Is this valve cover a different one or the original one painted?

 

[ginmtb]

Not stock valve cover. I read to go with aluminum as they seal much better and the old ones leaked.

Racer that is what came out of the heater and hard lines after my full flush and air blow through. I rinsed out the hard lines and the rear heater and bunch of gunk flushed out. Perhaps that explains why the water didn't flush all the way through? Also might explain why the rear heater never worked great.

New insulation on hard lines for rear heater! McMaster-Carr

And my secret to getting the insulation on the pipe... Well that's all I could find not sure where the baby powder went.

 

[ginmtb]

Got some hoses on, still need to blast the fan shroud and paint and install. Fun puzzle to put back together.

Unfortunately cut the horizontal hose too short. Will replace.

 

[Racer65]

Looks like that union pipe fits perfectly, but the hose clamps are oversized. Looking forward to seeing the new valve cover in the engine bay.

 

[ginmtb]

Yeah it worked perfectly so happy that worked! Plus now you can include in your store that it works on earlier models!

 

[ginmtb]

Hey so the bracket for my air cleaner is rusty and I have a much cleaner one to use but those bolts holding it in are frozen pretty solidly and are huge. Do I just need to be patient with it and keep hitting it up with penetrant? Heat as well? Standard frozen rusted bolt removal process?

 

[handcannon]

For the rusted bolts, try tightening just a little bit, then loosen back up that same amount. Then apply some penetrant. Wait a few hours, and do the same all over again. See if this helps to loosen those bolts over time. Also, can you get to the back side of these bolts? If so, wire brush them to clean off all rust, and spray this side with penetrant also.

I like PB Blaster. There is also "Ed's Red", a mix of acetone and auto tranny fluid. I've never used it so I can't do anything more than say it's worth a try.

Don

 

[ginmtb]

Thanks Don - yup I know the drill all too well. I was just wondering with these bolts since they go into the engine block if there was anything different to do. I too use PB Blaster.

They are big bolts I just don't want to sheer those bad boys off...

 

[handcannon]

Hopefully you already realize those are head bolts (hardened) holding the filter canister mount. They will be torqued down tight, but shouldn't be a big problem getting them out though. The biggest concern would be getting the mount off without compromising the head gasket.

Don

 

[Solace in Solitude]

X2^^

Mike,

Is replacing this mount really worth potentially compromising the integrity of your head gasket seal?

Unless you plan on pulling your head, for some reason, I would mask around that bracket and spray it with rust converter and spray paint. It will look like new.

Just my $.02

 

[ginmtb]

Sounds good I will clean it up and paint it and call it done. Thanks all!

 

[ginmtb]

Well back from lovely Hawaii and taking care of some Cruiser withdrawals. Unfortunately some parts didn't arrive so I still can't close the loop for the cooling system. Soon though!

Got the fuel line to line up with the pump and carb! It's not pretty but it works.

I capped the other line temporarily for now until I figure out a better way to do it. You can see it right next to the oil filter.

I blasted the fan shroud and painted it so it's all purdy. What a pain it is to get that back in there. Made more tolerable by the new OEM radiator cap.

And lastly when they say be careful with the POR15 they're not kidding. I got some on the bib hinge and now that thing is locked solid. So I'll be looking for a replacement for that - should be an easy item to find.

Still haven't gotten the TREs off yet but hopefully next weekend for that.

 

[Weber Sarge]

You could soak it in brake fluid for a few days - haven't seen a coating yet that can withstand that stuff for long .
Sarge

 

[ginmtb]

Okay made some exciting progress today!

Shutoff valve!

All radiator lines connected and new insulation on the pipes.

I freed up my bib hinge! MAPP gas torch did the trick. I had a strong fan blowing as the fumes I'm sure took a couple of years off my life. Sandblasted and painted too!

And finally...

Need a washer or two on one of the nuts. But otherwise really happy with how things are coming together.

Next is to fill the radiator with fluid and put the passenger seat/frame/gas tank cover back together.

Oh and I need to work on those pesky TREs...

 

[Solace in Solitude]

looking good Mike!!

 

[Racer65]

Wow just about everything looks brand new under the hood now!
Is the bib hinge using Toyota paint code?

 

[ginmtb]

Yup Freeborn Red!

 

[ginmtb]

So I'm wondering - should I cut the one bolt that is too tall or just leave it and throw a couple of washers under it? Seems like a lot of work for really only aesthetics.

Guess I answered my question. Lol